Balthazar

Retaining its long-held status as a superstar among the city’s glut of French bistros, this bustling (OK, loud) spot still pulls in the discriminating mobs. That’s thanks to three winning details: the location, which makes it a convenient shopping-spree rest area; the uplifting ambience, shaped by big, mounted mirrors, cozy high-backed booths and airy high ceilings and wide windows; and, of course, the stellar something-for-everyone menu, which features an outstanding raw bar, steak frites, salad niçoise, roasted beet salad and prawn risotto with sage and butternut squash. The kitchen stays open till 2am Thursday to Saturday, and weekend brunch here is a very crowded (and delicious) production.