Sights in Hawai'i (The Big Island)
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White Sands Beach Park
White Sands Beach Park is a mini-paradise with crystal turquoise waters and shady palms. Its ability to lose its sand literally overnight during high winter surf has earned it nicknames such as Magic Sands and Disappearing Sands. When its rocks and coral are exposed, the beach becomes too treacherous for most swimmers. Gradually the sand magically returns, transforming the shore back into its former beachy self.
White Sands is always packed and is an ideal bodyboarding and bodysurfing spot. Facilities include rest rooms, showers, picnic tables and a volleyball court; a lifeguard is on duty. The park is about four miles south of the center.
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Devastation Trail
The paved, wheelchair-accessible Devastation Trail passes through the fallout area of the 1959 eruption of Kilauea Iki Crater, which decimated this portion of the rain forest. Continuing east, you pass Keanakako'i Crater and the intersection with Chain of Craters Rd.
The trail is not half as dramatic as its name, however, nor does it hold a candle to the more involved Kilauea Iki Trail. The overlook does provide a fantastic vantage point into the crater, and it's a quick walk to see Pu'u Pua'i, which formed during the eruption. Parking is available at the intersection of Chain of Craters Rd and at the Pu'u Pua'i Overlook further east.
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Kamehameha the Great Statue
The Kamehameha the Great Statue on the front lawn of the North Kohala Civic Center may look familiar. Its lei-draped and much-photographed twin stands opposite Honolulu's 'Iolani Palace. The statue was made in 1880 in Florence by American sculptor Thomas Gould. When the ship delivering it sank off the Falkland Islands, a second statue was cast. The duplicate arrived at the islands in 1883 and took its place in downtown Honolulu.
Later the sunken statue was recovered from the ocean floor and completed its trip to Hawaii. It was then sent here, to Kamehameha's childhood home. A notice board behind the statue tells the full story.
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Lili'uokalani Park
This lovely green oasis is named for Hawai'i's last queen. It contains manicured lawns, saltwater ponds, patches of bamboo, quaint arched bridges, stone lanterns, pagodas and a teahouse. With 2 miles of paths and ideal views of the ocean, Hilo and (on a clear day) Mauna Kea, it's perfect for a sunset stroll, an early-morning jog or an afternoon picnic with the kids (who often bring nets to snare pond fish).
Connected to Lili'uokalani Gardens by a footbridge is the tiny island of Mokuola. Also known as 'Coconut Island', it's a separate county park with picnic tables and swimming, and is popular with local anglers.
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Puako Petroglyph Preserve
With more than 3000 petroglyphs, the Puako Petroglyph Preserve is one of the largest collections of ancient lava carvings in Hawai'i and definitely worth a visit. The human figures drawn in simple linear forms are among the oldest examples of such drawings in Hawai'i. Like all petroglyphs in Hawaii, the meaning of the symbols remains enigmatic.
From the mauka end of the Holoholokai Beach parking lot, a well-marked trail leads 1300yd to the preserve. The walk is easy, but good shoes are recommended. Avoid midday as the path is only partly shaded. Stay on the path to avoid damaging the petroglyphs.
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Ahuʻena Heiau
After Kamehameha the Great established his kingdom's royal court in Lahaina on Maui, he returned to Ahu'ena Heiau, his Kamakahonu residence on Kailua Bay, where he died in May 1819. His personal temple is at the tip of an outcropping on the northern end of Kailua Bay, and surrounded by water on three sides. It has been reconstructed with palm-leaf shacks and carved wooden ki'i(statues). Do not climb on this sacred site.
Here, Kamakahona beach is a miniature cove fronting King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel. The waters are calm and safe for children, and the hotel's beach hut rents beach gear.
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'Anaeho'omalu Beach Park's Beach
'Anaeho'omalu Beach Park's beach is a narrow strip of sand with shady palms that separates an extremely calm bay from two ancient fishponds. Popular with families, swimmers and picnickers. This is perhaps the only beach suited to windsurfing; snorkeling is decent at the north end, directly in front of the sluice gate; and drinking water, showers and bathrooms are available.
Archaeologists have found evidence of human habitation here dating back more than 1000 years. A short footpath with interpretive plaques starts near the showers and passes fishponds, caves, ancient house platforms and a shrine.
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Laupahoehoe Train Museum
The Laupahoehoe Train Museum evokes Hawai'i's long-gone railroad era - it's chock-full of nostalgic, lovingly tended ephemera, including 'Rusty' the switch engine, 'Woody' the caboose and a budding model railroad. The porch has kids' trains to play with.
Continue past the museum into town, and you'll find a quiet gallery and a 50s-style diner. Laupahoehoe is midway between Honoka'a and Hilo on Hwy 19. Near the 27-mile marker a 'Laupahoehoe Point' sign leads you down the steep winding road to the coast, while the museum is visible from the highway between the 25- and 26-mile markers.
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Kalahuipua'a Fishponds
The ancient Kalahuipua'a Fishponds lie along the beach just south of the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel, partly shaded by a grove of coconut palms and milo (native hardwood) trees. They are among the few still-working fishponds in Hawai'i, and are stocked with awa (Hawaiian milk fish). Water circulates from the ocean through traditional makaha (sluice gates), which allow small fish to enter but keep mature, fattened catch from leaving.
You might notice fish sporadically jumping into the air and slapping down on the water, an exercise that knocks off parasites.
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Mauna Ulu
In 1969, eruptions from Kilauea's east rift began building a new lava shield, which eventually rose 400ft above its surroundings. It was named Mauna Ulu. By the time the flow stopped in 1974, it had covered 10,000 acres of parkland and added 200 acres of new land to the coast.
It also buried a 12-mile section of Chain of Craters Rd in lava up to 300ft deep. A half-mile portion of the old road survives, and you can follow it to the lava flow by taking the turnoff on the left, 3.5 miles down Chain of Craters Rd. Just beyond this is Mauna Ulu itself.
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Honoli'i Beach Park
North of downtown Hilo, the protected cove at Honoli'i Beach Park has Hilo's best bodyboarding and surfing, particularly for beginners. A lovely, well-tended grassy picnic area fronts the beach, with fantastic views of Hilo, plus there are rest rooms, outdoor showers and a lifeguard. Honoli'i isn't the best for swimming, as the adjacent river often muddies the waters.
From Hilo, take Hwy 19 north; after the 4-mile marker, turn right onto Nahala St, then left onto Kahoa St. People park on the roadside and walk down to the park.
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Waikoloa Petroglyph Preserve
A lava field, Waikoloa Petroglyph Preserve, etched with impressive petroglyphs, many dating back to the 16th century, is located beside the Kings' Shops. Some are graphic (humans, birds, canoes) and others cryptic (dots, lines). Western influences appear in the form of horses and English initials.
From the King's Shops, a five-minute walk along a signposted path leads to the first of the etchings. Stay on the path to avoid damaging the petroglyphs. The King's Shops offers a free, one-hour petroglyph tour at 10:30 daily.
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Kalahikiola Church
Protestant missionaries Elias and Ellen Bond built Kalahikiola Church in 1855. The land and buildings on the drive in are part of the vast Bond estate, proving that missionary life wasn't one of total deprivation. Large portions of the church crumbled in the 2006 earthquake, and the congregation immediately began fundraising to rebuild. Towering banyan trees and peaceful macadamia-nut orchards surround the church, making it a worthwhile detour.
The church is 900yd up 'Iole Rd, between the 23- and 24-mile markers.
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Manini'owali (Kua Bay)
Manini'owali (Kua Bay) is idyllic, with crescent-shaped white sands and turquoise waters. Due to its easy access, Manini'owali packs on weekends. Most of the year, the conditions are suited to swimmers, but in winter the waves kick up for bodyboarders and bodysurfers and the storms can generate currents that temporarily strip the beach of sand. There are bathrooms and showers and picnic tables, but very little vegetation or shade.
On the way to the beach you'll see Pu'u Ku'ili, a 342ft grassy cinder cone.
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Mokupapapa Discovery Center
The best, and easiest, way to visit the long string of islands and atolls that make up the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands is to visit the Mokupapapa Discovery Center. It packs a lot in a small space, describing all the islands and their abundant marine life through videos, films, displays, maps and interactive exhibits, such as a mock-up of the Pisces V diving submersible, with workable robotic arms. It's worth visiting just to hear the kumulipo.
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Kehaka Kai State Park
For remote, pristine, white-sand beaches head for Kehaka Kai State Park. Formerly known as Kona Coast State Park, most of this 1600-acre park is undeveloped fields of chunky 'a'a lava devoid of plant life. But its beautiful beaches, only one of which has paved access, are the reason to come here. If you hike in, either set out early or prepare for punishing heat from the exposed trails and dark ground. Wear good shoes and bring lots of water.
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St Peter's Church
St Peter's Church, aka The 'Little Blue Church', is one of Hawai'i's most-photographed, and a favorite for weddings. Made of clapboard with a corrugated-tin roof, it sits practically in Kahalu'u Bay. Built in the 1880s, it was moved from White Sands Beach to this site in 1912. It now sits on an ancient Hawaiian religious site, Ku'emanu Heiau. Hawaiian royalty, who surfed Kahalu'u Bay, paid their respects at this temple before hitting the waves.
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Hilo Coffee Mill
Coffee lovers (or addicts, if you will) should put on the brakes for the Hilo Coffee Mill, which is dedicated to supporting and promoting East Hawai'i coffee plantations. Free samples are offered at the counter, where coffee is treated as though it were fine wine. The Mill sells fresh coffee and espresso drinks, hot and cold, and you can buy whole beans. Visit the roaster next door to further your education; orchard tours are sometimes offered.
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Mauna Loa Macadamia-Nut Visitor Center
Some 'tourist traps' can be fun. Mauna Loa Macadamia-Nut Visitor Center provides a window on a working factory, where you can watch the humble mac nut as it moves along the assembly line from cracking to roasting to chocolate dipping and packaging. The gift shop, of course, has every variation ready for purchase, with tasters. The factory is well signed about 5 miles south of Hilo; the 3-mile access road dips through acres of macadamia trees.
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Chain of Craters Road
From Crater Rim Dr, this scenic 32km (20mi) road leads down to the coast, ending abruptly where recent lava flows have buried it. Rangers can advise you on how or if it's possible to hike to the active flow; a telltale steam plume marks the spot where lava enters the water. Stay for sunset, as darkness brings out the fiery glow. The road offers no services, but several short hikes lead from it, including one to a petroglyph field.
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Hawaii Plantation Museum
This homespun museum is dedicated to preserving Hawaii's plantation-era life. It has the disheveled feel of a jumble sale with placards - and rightly so. What began as owner Wayne Subica's desire to celebrate the plantation baseball teams of his youth now expands daily, with residents donating their personal memorabilia to the ever-widening collection. Wayne has already outgrown his Hilo location; call first to see if he's moved.
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Pana'ewa Rainforest Zoo
Upon entering the modest 12-acre Pana'ewa Rainforest Zoo, most visitors receive a cheerful 'Hi! How are you?' from Max, the zoo's talking parrot and official goodwill ambassador. The zoo's real prize, however, is a white Bengal tiger. You only need an hour or two to tour the grounds, which feature several endangered Hawaiian birds, monkeys, reptiles, a pygmy hippo, and gaggles of free-roaming peacocks and chickens. Kids love it.
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East Hawai'i Cultural Center
Hilo is becoming a bona fide art town, and for many years the heart of Hilo's art scene has been the East Hawai'i Cultural Center, which is dedicated to promoting local artists. Diverse exhibits showcase everyone from established professionals to competent amateurs, all engaged in celebrating and digesting the Hawaiian experience. They also offer a range of workshops and classes (including painting, drawing, 'ukulele and hula).
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Kamigaki Family's Kona Coast Macadamia Nut & Candy Factory
At the Kamigaki Family's Kona Coast Macadamia Nut & Candy Factory, you can gather some basic information about (surprise!) macadamia nuts and try out a husking machine. The dusty barn 'showroom' overlooks the real operation out back, where nuts are husked and sorted. The real attraction is the store, which sells all sorts of macadamia nut products and delectable chocolates. Be forewarned that opening hours are flexible.
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Kaumana Caves
Kaumana Caves are actually a large lava tube formed by an 1881 Mauna Loa eruption. The tube is extensive (enter the left or right opening), but it narrows periodically and lengthy explorations require some crawling; it's a much more evocative experience than Thurston Lava Tube in Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park. Bring two flashlights (in case one goes out!). The caves are signposted about 4 miles along Kaumana Dr (Hwy 200).
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