Volcano sights in Hawai'i (The Big Island)
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A
Thurston Lava Tube
East of the intersection with Chain of Craters Rd you enter the rain forest of native tree ferns and ohia that covers Kilauea's windward slope. Thurston Lava Tube is the endpoint of an enjoyable short walk through a bird-filled ohia forest (it's a good place to spot the red-bodied 'apapane, a native honeycreeper). The lava tube itself is enormous - big enough for your car - and a short initial section is lighted. Does get crowded.
Lava tubes are formed when the outer crust of a river of lava starts to harden but the liquid lava beneath the surface continues to flow through. After the flow has drained out, the hard shell remains. Eastern Hawai'i is riddled with lava tubes,…
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B
Devastation Trail
The paved, wheelchair-accessible Devastation Trail passes through the fallout area of the 1959 eruption of Kilauea Iki Crater, which decimated this portion of the rain forest. Continuing east, you pass Keanakako'i Crater and the intersection with Chain of Craters Rd.
The trail is not half as dramatic as its name, however, nor does it hold a candle to the more involved Kilauea Iki Trail. The overlook does provide a fantastic vantage point into the crater, and it's a quick walk to see Pu'u Pua'i, which formed during the eruption. Parking is available at the intersection of Chain of Craters Rd and at the Pu'u Pua'i Overlook further east.
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C
Mauna Ulu
In 1969, eruptions from Kilauea's east rift began building a new lava shield, which eventually rose 400ft above its surroundings. It was named Mauna Ulu. By the time the flow stopped in 1974, it had covered 10,000 acres of parkland and added 200 acres of new land to the coast.
It also buried a 12-mile section of Chain of Craters Rd in lava up to 300ft deep. A half-mile portion of the old road survives, and you can follow it to the lava flow by taking the turnoff on the left, 3.5 miles down Chain of Craters Rd. Just beyond this is Mauna Ulu itself.
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D
Kehaka Kai State Park
For remote, pristine, white-sand beaches head for Kehaka Kai State Park. Formerly known as Kona Coast State Park, most of this 1600-acre park is undeveloped fields of chunky 'a'a lava devoid of plant life. But its beautiful beaches, only one of which has paved access, are the reason to come here. If you hike in, either set out early or prepare for punishing heat from the exposed trails and dark ground. Wear good shoes and bring lots of water.
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E
Chain of Craters Road
From Crater Rim Dr, this scenic 32km (20mi) road leads down to the coast, ending abruptly where recent lava flows have buried it. Rangers can advise you on how or if it's possible to hike to the active flow; a telltale steam plume marks the spot where lava enters the water. Stay for sunset, as darkness brings out the fiery glow. The road offers no services, but several short hikes lead from it, including one to a petroglyph field.
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F
Crater Rim Drive
The incredible 11-mile Crater Rim Drive loop road skirts the rim of Kilauea Caldera. It passes the visitor center, a museum, a lava tube, steam vents, rifts, hiking trails and views of the smoking crater that'll knock your socks off. Don't miss it. Also, since it's relatively level, it's the park's best road for cyclists. This description starts at the visitor center and goes counterclockwise.
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G
Kilauea Iki Crater
The overlook provides an awesome view of the mile-wide Kilauea Iki Crater, and the hike across its hardened surface is the park's most popular. One good strategy for visiting this often crowded, but scenic portion of Crater Rim Dr is to park at the Kilauea Iki Overlook and walk the Crater Rim Trail to Thurston Lava Tube and back; it's about a mile all told and easy as pie.
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H
Mauna Loa's Observatory Trail
At the end of Mauna Loa Observatory Rd is the Mauna Loa Observatory Trail. This is an all-day adventure, but few 13,000ft mountains exist that are so accessible to the average hiker. This is a rare and unforgettable experience. Day hikers do not need a permit, but if you would like to overnight at Mauna Loa Cabin, register the day before at the Kilauea Visitor Centre.
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I
Chain of Craters Road
Chain of Craters Road gets shorter all the time (most recently in 2003). It currently winds about 18 miles down the southern slopes of Kilauea Volcano, ending abruptly at the latest East Rift Zone lava flow on the Puna Coast. It's paved but curvaceous; allow 45 minutes to an hour one way without stops.
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