Dry Tortugas National Park

Lonely Planet review

After all those Keys, connected by all that convenient road, the nicest islands in the archipelago require a little extra effort. Ponce de León named them Las Tortugas - 'The Turtles' - for the sea turtles that roamed here. A lack of fresh water led sailors to add a 'dry.' Today the 'Dry Tortugas' are a national park under the control of the Everglades National Park office, only accessible by boat or plane.

Originally the Tortugas were the US's naval perch into the Gulf of Mexico. But by the Civil War, Fort Jefferson, the main structure on the islands, had become a prison for Union deserters and at least four people, among them Dr Samuel Mudd, who had been arrested for complicity in the assassination of Abraham Lincoln. Hence, a new nickname: Devil's Island. The name was prophetic; in 1867 a yellow fever outbreak killed 38 people, and after an 1873 hurricane the fort was abandoned. It reopened in 1886 as a quarantine station for smallpox and cholera victims, was declared a national monument in 1935 by President Franklin D Roosevelt, and was upped into national park status in 1992 by George Bush Sr.

The park is open for day trips and overnight camping, which provides a rare phenomenon: a quiet Florida beach. Garden Key has 13 campsites (around US$3 per person, per night), which are given out on a first-come, first-served basis. Reserve early by calling the Everglades National Park office. There are toilets, but no fresh-water showers or drinking water; bring everything you'll need. The sparkling waters offer excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities. A visitor center is located within fascinating Fort Jefferson.

If you're hungry, watch for Cuban-American fishing boats trolling the waters. They'll happily trade for lobster, crab and shrimp; you'll have the most leverage trading beverages. Just paddle up to and bargain for your supper. In March and April, there is stupendous bird-watching, including aerial fighting. Star-gazing is mind-blowing any time of the year.

If you have your own boat, the Dry Tortugas are covered under National Ocean Survey chart No 11438. Otherwise, the Yankee Freedom II (www.yankeefreedom.com; Key West Seaport) operates a fast ferry between Garden Key and the Key West Seaport (at the northern end of Margaret St). Round-trip fares cost around US$120 /around US$110 per adult/child. Reservations are recommended. Continental breakfast, a picnic lunch, snorkeling gear and a 45-minute tour of the fort are all included. In addition, Seaplanes of Key West (www.seaplanesofkeywest.com) can take up to 10 passengers. Again, reserve at least a week in advance.