Wilderness Waterway & 10,000 Islands

The finest way to experience the serenity and beauty of the Everglades - which is somehow desolate yet lush, tropical yet foreboding - is by canoeing or kayaking through the excellent network of waterways that skirt the northwest portion of the park. The 10,000 Islands consist of many (but not really 10,000) tiny islands and a mangrove swamp that hug the southwesternmost border of Florida.

The Wilderness Waterway, a 99-mile path between Everglades City and Flamingo, is the longest canoe trail in the area, but there are shorter trails near Flamingo.

Most islands are fringed by narrow beaches with sugar-white sand, but note that the water is brackish, not clear, and very shallow most of the time. It's not Tahiti, but it's fascinating. The best part is that you can camp on your own island for up to a week.

Getting around the 10,000 Islands is pretty straightforward if you religiously adhere to NOAA tide and nautical charts. Going against the tides is the fastest way to make it a miserable trip. The Gulf Coast Visitor Center (941-695-3311; Hwy 29, Everglades City; ;08:30-17:00) sells nautical charts and gives out free tidal charts. You can also purchase charts prior to your visit - call 305-247-1216 and ask for chart Nos 11430, 11432 and 11433.

Near Everglades City, you can take a downstream trip on the Turner River alone or with a group. Take a drift-with-the-current trip to Chokoloskee Island, or add a bit of a challenge at the end and paddle upstream in the boating canal to the Gulf Coast Visitor Center. For an easy day of paddling, just cross the bay from the Gulf Coast Visitor Center and paddle out and around the mangroves to Sandfly Island or on the Chokoloskee Bay Loop. For an easy one- or two-night trip, head to islands closest to the ranger station: Tiger, Picnic, Rabbit, New Turkey, Turkey and Hog Keys, all with beach campsites. There are hundreds of other combinations; check with a ranger at the Gulf Coast Visitor Center for more recommendations.

If you're going to make the eight- to 10-day Wilderness Waterway trek between Everglades City and Flamingo, you'll probably need help portaging (shuttling your car from one point to the other). Contact the very nice folks at the Everglades International Hostel. They're the only ones in the area who provide this service. However you cut it, count on sacrificing one day for logistics: one person ferries the car around while another pulls permits for the backcountry trip.