Things to do in Whittier
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Portage Pass Trail
Whittier's only USFS-maintained trail makes a superb afternoon hike, providing good views of Portage Glacier, Passage Canal and the surrounding mountains and glaciers. Even better, hike up in the late afternoon and spend the evening camping at Divide Lake.
The Portage Pass Trail is along an old roadbed and is easy to follow. To reach it, head west of town toward the tunnel, then follow the signs leftward onto a road crossing the railroad tracks. You'll find a parking area at the trailhead. Proceed along the right fork as it begins to climb steeply along the flank of the mountain. There's a steady ascent for a mile, finishing at a promontory (elevation 750ft) that offers v…
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Prince William Sound Museum
Heading back toward the waterfront along Eastern Ave, you'll come to the rather extravagantly named Prince William Sound Museum, which occupies an ill-lit room beside the Anchor Inn Grocery Store. The space has lots of displays about Whittier's military history, but the most fascinating exhibit is about the man who engineered the town's tunnel, Anton Anderson. A Swedish-Australian immigrant, Anderson discovered he had a knack for carving holes through mountains, and then found he had a knack for politics, eventually becoming the mayor of Anchorage.
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Log Cabin Gifts
This growing collection of restaurants, tour outfits and quirkier-than-average gift shops is fun; don't miss Log Cabin Gifts, Whittier's best stab at adorable. The knickknacks, including lots of high-quality leatherwork, are handmade by owner Brenda Tolman, but the reindeer outside - Elizabeth and Violet, the day we were there - are the real crowd pleasers. If it's wet out, though, you won't see them. Apparently, they don't like rain - which makes it tough to live in Whittier.
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Honey Charters
Offers tours of Blackstone Bay and Barry Arm, both with a four-person minimum, as well as sightseeing trips to Cordova and Valdez, which both have a 12-person minimum. It specializes in water-taxi transportation to public-use cabins and to remote hunting, fishing and hiking destinations. It's charged per nautical mile for up to 30 people; rates are 40% cheaper if you can coordinate drop-offs and pickups with other groups.
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Horsetail Falls
From the southwest corner of Begich Towers, you can look west to Whittier Creek, while above it, falling from the ridge of a glacial cirque, is picturesque Horsetail Falls. Locals use the cascade to gauge the weather: if the tail is whipping upwards, it's too windy to go out in the boat. There are also great views of dozens of other waterfalls streaking from the snowfields to the Sound.
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Begich Towers
Whittier's dystopian townscape is perversely intriguing, and thus well worth a stroll. Start at Begich Towers, visible from anywhere in town, where the 1st, 14th and 15th floors are open to nonresidents. Watching children playing in the cinder-block corridors, you can't help contemplating how much of your private business would be common knowledge if you'd grown up here.
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Smitty's Cove
From the Buckner Building, walk along the Shotgun Cove Hiking Trail, which winds through blueberry and salmonberry thickets to First Salmon Run Picnic Area, and then head a quarter mile down the road to your right (northeast) to get to Smitty's Cove. At low tide you can comb the beach westward, following the water's edge past the ferry terminal to the Triangle.
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Buckner Building
Climbing Blackstone Rd from the museum, Buckner Building dominates the otherwise picture-postcard view. Once the largest structure in Alaska, the 'city under one roof' looms dismal and abandoned above town; the use of asbestos in the structure has complicated attempts to remodel or tear down the eerie edifice.
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Hobo Bay Trading Co
When we visited, brassy old-timer Babs Reynolds had been serving up her exquisite burgers and nachos - with a heaping helping of local politics - for '27 years and tired of counting.' Alas, her place was for sale. No matter who buys it, it'll never be the same.
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Swiftwater Seafood Café
The fried halibut and homemade clam chowder hit the spot when it's raining horizontally outside. On the walls are photos of famous Alaskan shipwrecks, which you can peruse over your rhubarb crisp.
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Prince William Sound Kayak Center
Prince William Sound Kayak Center offers rentals (single/double $50/80) and guided tours, including day-long excursions to Blackstone Bay (for two people $425).
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Alaska Sea Kayakers
Alaska Sea Kayakers rents kayaks per day, runs classes, arranges water-taxis and takes various multiday tours to places like Harriman Fjord, Nellie Juan Glacier and Whale Bay.
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Tunnel's End Café & Espresso
This café has an extensive breakfast menu, served in what seems like someone's living room. For later, there are burgers, fried halibut and grilled salmon sandwiches.
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Café Orca
The lattes, veggie sandwiches and homemade desserts here aren't cheap, but it's a restful place with remarkable views down the fjord.
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China Sea
Serving up Chinese and Korean food, this place has a lunch buffet featuring fresh kung po halibut. Also oopen for dinner.
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Lazy Otter Charters
Lazy Otter Charters offers guided day trips to Blackstone Bay for a minimum of four people. It also runs a water-taxi.
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Prince William Sound Cruises & Tours
Offers 'quality time' with the very active Surprise Glacier on its six-hour tour of Esther Passage.
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Major Marine Tours
Has a USFS ranger on every cruise. It does a five-hour tour of glacier-riddled Blackstone Bay.
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Phillips Tours
Sends its speedy Klondike Express past 26 glaciers in one day. Don't blink.
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