Getting there & away
Experienced kayakers can rent a boat from in Juneau and paddle to the refuge - a two-day trip (30 to 35 miles) that uses a tram at Oliver Inlet to portage into Seymour Canal. The run down Gastineau Channel and around Douglas Island isn't bad, but the Stephens Passage crossing to reach Oliver Inlet has to be done with extreme care and a close eye on the weather. Alaska Boat & Kayak (789-6886; www.juneaukayak.com; single/double $45/60) will rent you a kayak and also arrange a drop-off at Oliver Inlet.
Alaska Discovery offers a one-day tour ($550 per person) that includes a flight from Juneau and then kayaking to Pack Creek for a day of watching bears before returning. A three-day, two-night trip costs $1050. Alaska Fly 'N' Fish (790-2120; www.alaskabyair.com; 9604 Kelly Ct, Juneau) also holds permits and offers a 5½-hour, fly-in tour ($475) or will transport you ($250 per person, minimum two) if you're lucky enough to snare a permit.