Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge

This 2812-sq-mile preserve, which covers the southern two-thirds of Kodiak Island, all of Ban and Uganik Islands and a small section of Afognak Island, is the chief stronghold of the Alaska brown bear. An estimated 2300 bears reside in the refuge and the surrounding area, which is known worldwide for brown-bear hunting and to a lesser degree for salmon and steelhead fishing.

Birdlife is plentiful: more than 200 species have been recorded, and there are 600 breeding pairs of eagles that nest within the refuge. Flowing out of the steep fjords and deep glacial valleys and into the sea are 117 salmon-bearing streams that account for 65% of the total commercial salmon harvest in Kodiak.

The refuge's diverse habitat ranges from rugged mountains and alpine meadows to wetlands, spruce forest and grassland. No roads enter the refuge, and no maintained trails lie within it. Cross-country hiking is extremely hard, due to thick brush. Access into the park is by charter plane or boat out of Kodiak, and most of the refuge lies at least 25 air miles away.

Like most wilderness areas in Alaska, an extensive trip into the refuge is something that requires advance planning and some money. Begin before you arrive in Alaska by contacting the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center (1390 Buskin River Rd).

If you're looking for somewhere to sleep, the Kodiak office of the US Fish & Wildlife Service (USFWS) administers eight cabins in the refuge, none accessible by road. The closest to Kodiak are Uganik Lake Cabin and Veikoda Bay Cabin. There is a nightly rate and the cabins are reserved through four lotteries throughout the year. If all dates are not booked in the lottery, the open dates are booked by phone on a first-come, first-served basis. Contact the refuge visitors center for more information.

What most people really want to see in the refuge are the massive brown bears. But if you're limited to just a day or two in Kodiak, the only feasible way to do this is through an air charter. Just about every air-charter company in town offers a bear-watching flight in which you fly over remote shorelines in the refuge looking for bruins. The length of flights and the number of times you land differ from one 'tour' to the next but generally a four-hour trip that includes landing and photographing bears feeding on salmon is expensive and has a two-person minimum. Among the air services offering bear tours are Andrew Airways (907 487 2566), Bear Quest Aviation (907 486 2327), Kodiak Air Service (907 486 4446) and Sea Hawk Air (907 486 8282).

If you have more time, a much more adventurous way of seeing the bears is through Kodiak Treks (907 487 2122), which offers low-impact, small-group bear-watching trips from its remote lodge on an island in Uyak Bay. Harry Dodge, a noted bear biologist, leads guests from the lodge, by boat and boot, to various viewing spots in the bay. You'll spend the day hiking and watching anywhere from a handful to more than two dozen bears. The cost per person per day covers lodging, meals and equipment but not your charter flight to Uyak Bay. This is an excellent way to experience the refuge, but plan at least three days at the lodge to include other activities such as kayaking and fishing.