Things to do in Western Uruguay
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Biblioteca Museo Eusebio Giménez
The Biblioteca Museo Eusebio Giménez displays paintings by the local artist.
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Catedral de Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes
The imposing Catedral de Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes dates from 1788.
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Real de San Carlos
At the turn of the 20th century, Argentine entrepreneur Nicolás Mihanovich spent US$1.5 million building an immense tourist complex 5km north of Colonia at Real de San Carlos. The attractions included a 10,000-seat bullring (made superfluous after Uruguay outlawed bullfights in 1912), a 3000-seat fronton (court) for the Basque sport of jai alai, a hotel-casino and a racecourse.
Only the racecourse functions today, but the ruins of the remaining buildings make an interesting excursion, and the adjacent beach is popular with locals on Sundays.
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Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo
At the southwest corner of the plaza are the Casa de Lavalleja (formerly General Lavalleja's residence), the ruins of the 17th-century Convento de San Francisco and the restored 19th-century faro (lighthouse). At the west end, on de San Francisco, the Museo Municipal has antique homewares, dinosaur remains and huge petrified mushrooms. The Casa del Virrey - which was never home to a viceroy - is just to the north.
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Iglesia Matriz
Historic Colonia's two main squares are the vast Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo and the shady Plaza de Armas, also known as Plaza Manuel Lobo. The latter plaza is the home of Colonia's Iglesia Matriz. The church, begun in 1680, is Uruguay's oldest, though it has been completely rebuilt twice. The plaza also holds the foundations of a house dating from Portuguese times.
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Teatro Bastión del Carmen
At the north end of Calle España is the Puerto Viejo, the old port, now a yacht harbor. One block east, the Teatro Bastión del Carmen is a theater and gallery complex that incorporates part of the city’s ancient fortifications. The huge chimney is newer, dating from the 1880s.
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La Estancia
A simple chivitería on weekdays, and a fully fledged parrilla nights and weekends, this cozy local hangout serves good food at affordable prices. Don't miss the torta estanciera, a tall three-layer cake loaded with strawberries and cream.
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Museo del Indio y del Gaucho Washington Escobar
Tacuarembó's Museo del Indio y del Gaucho Washington Escobar pays romantic tribute to Uruguay's gauchos and indigenous peoples. The collection includes stools made from leather and cow bones, elegantly worked silver spurs and other accessories of early rural life.
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Los Tres Pinos
The parrilla here is excellent; carnivores will appreciate specialties such as chuletas de cerdo con puré de manzana (pork chops with apple sauce) and pollo patrón (chicken stuffed with ham, pineapple and cherries).
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Faro
Off the southwest corner of the Plaza Mayor are the ruins of the 17th-century Convento de San Francisco, within which stands the 19th-century faro. The lighthouse provides an excellent view of the old town.
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Museo Indígena
From the Museo del Azulejo, walk north two blocks, then inland to the Museo Indígena, which houses a collection of Charrúa (the indigenous people of Uruguay) stone tools and exhibits on indigenous history.
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Convento de San Francisco
Off the southwest corner of Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo are the ruins of the 17th-century Convento de San Francisco, within which stands the 19th-century faro. The lighthouse provides an excellent view of the old town.
reviewed
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Waterfront
The waterfront area is Mercedes' biggest attraction. Principal activities are boating, fishing and swimming along the sandy beaches, or simply strolling along the Rambla (especially popular on Sunday afternoons).
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Sacramento
Sacramento earns its reputation as one of Colonia’s best restaurants, with tasty creations such as risotto in champagne with sesame-marinated spider crabs, or ricotta, leek, and bacon ravioli.
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Drugstore
Reasonable set meals for two, eclectic decor (try dining in the vintage car on the street) and live music on weekends. If you're hungry, go for the picada a la mar (seafood assortment).
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Pulpería de Los Faroles
Specializing in seafood and pasta, this reader-recommended eatery has a rainbow of colorful tablecloths in the artsy interior dining room, plus a sea of informal outdoor seating on Plaza Mayor.
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Calle de los Suspiros
Famous streets of Colonia's Barrio Histórico include the narrow, roughly cobbled Calle de los Suspiros, lined with tile-and-stucco colonial houses, and the riverfront Paseo de San Gabriel.
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Horse Treks
As well as being a good place to sleep, Hostel Colonial organizes half-day horse treks from an inland forest, along ravines and down to the coast. Shorter and longer rides are also available.
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Museo Español
Heading east on Av General Flores and then a block further north brings you near the Museo Español, which has exhibitions of replica colonial pottery, clothing and maps.
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La Luna
This laid-back pub-restaurant with a great rooftop terrace is the perfect place to grab a beer as the sun goes down and watch the ferries taking those poor fools back to Buenos Aires.
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La Churrasquera
You can't miss this place - the parrilla and its firewood are proudly displayed in the front window. Large portions are served, and the atmosphere is delightfully old-timey.
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Casa Nacarello
Casa Nacarello is one of the prettiest colonial homes in town, with period furniture, thick, whitewashed walls, wavy glass, original lintels and a nice courtyard.
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Museo Municipal
Museo Municipal houses an eclectic collection of treasures, including a whale skeleton, an enormous rudder from a shipwreck and a scale model of Colonia c 1762.
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El Torreón
By far the best place to eat in terms of views, this place is set in an old tower overlooking the water. The back deck makes for a cozy, intimate spot for a romantic dinner.
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La Bodeguita
Nab a table out back on the sunny, two-level deck and soak up the sweeping river views while drinking sangría or munching on La Bodeguita’s trademark pizza.
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