It’s worth a detour deep into Deira for Bombay’s orthodox North Indian cooking. Come hungry and start with the kebab sampler (mutton, chicken, fish) then move on to mint-marinated fish cooked tandoori style, or a cardamom-rich saag gosht (lamb and spinach). There’s lots for vegetarians. The French-style service by tuxedo-clad waiters is a surprise at this price, but we’re not arguing. We’re just happy they serve beer.