An army of 20 clatters pans and fires woks behind the glass of the open kitchen at Zheng He’s, the spectacular contemporary Chinese restaurant known for its fresh, light dim sum and stellar seafood specials (many diners go for the live tank, but others prefer the wasabi prawns with black pepper). The Sino-chic room is gorgeous, with a pagoda-style ceiling and good symmetry. Alas, the hard surfaces mean high decibels, and the location at Madinat Jumeirah means high prices. Score an outside table for romantic views of the water and Burj al-Arab. No children under four years old.