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Abesinian Restaurant
The staff are welcoming and warm at this homey Ethiopian restaurant, where the big platters of curry and stews are best sopped-up with injera, spongy flat bread of native grain. Tricky to find but worth it.
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Afghan Kebab House
Big hunks of meat - lamb, beef, chicken - charred on foot-long skewers come served with rice and bread. That's it. Think caveman food. Eat with your hands. Tricky to find, but locals can direct you.
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Al Mallah
Local-favourite Al Mallah gets packed in its outdoor seating area, even during the scorching summer. The things to order: shawarma (served after ), wrapped or on a plate; falafel dripping in tahini; and fresh juice. Skip the mezze (go to Sidra, across the road). Great for people-watching after a night drinking. No credit cards.
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Al-Baghdadi Home
In Little Iraq, on one of Dubai's best, lesser-known walking streets, Al-Baghdadi spit-roasts whole fish beside an open fire (the traditional preparation) in the restaurant's window, and serves it with bread and lentil salad. (NB: don't order randomly - patchaa is sheep's head.)
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Al-Mijana
The wooden ceiling, keyhole windows and sweeping arches lend the dining room an abbey-like simplicity, but the Lebanese party scene is anything but subdued. Book a table, just before the belly dancer arrives, and fill the table with mezze and kebabs; if you're an intrepid foodie, order the pomegranate-lemon sauté of sparrows. The food's great, but the real reason to come is to whoop it up, spontaneously dance, and laugh too loud. Even the waiters join in.
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Al-Nafoorah
Tucked at the base of Emirates Towers, Al-Nafoorah's clubby, wood-panelled dining room feels like a Wall St power-lunch spot. The mezze stand out - try the kibbeh (raw lamb) - more than the kebabs on the classic Lebanese menu, but really, the kitchen does everything very well, if not beautifully.
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Al-Qasr
For the full-on Lebanese big night out, book an evening - ideally Thursday - at Al-Qasr. The meal starts with bread and veggies, followed by a dozen cold mezze and half a dozen hot. Then comes the meat… the meal goes on for hours. Show up after , when the noisy-fun Lebanese pop band plays and an enthusiastic belly dancer flutters, twirls and spins. By evening's end, the whole place joins in, clapping, dancing and singing. For a quieter meal, sit outside or come before . This is one of few places that carries Al-Maza Beer, which you should drink copiously.
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Al-Tannour
While its traditional village-style décor doesn't excite, the smell of freshly baked bread does. So does the rest of the food - this is some of the most authentic Lebanese food in Dubai. Go with a group that likes to get noisy, and fill the table with mezze from the unusually long list; round out the meal with a couple of grilled dishes (try the chicken). Book for around for maximum fun, when the band and belly dancer really get going.
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Almaz By Momo
Though it lacks the celeb factor of Momo's London flagship, high-energy Almaz draws party-hearty Emiratis who guzzle nonalcoholic champagne by the bottleful. Hardly any Westerners come here for dinner for the very reason Emiratis do: there's no booze. Don't be deterred. The moody-dark dining room, with its dizzying zelaeg -tile floor, feels like a cool Kasbah Lounge.
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Amwaj
It's rare in Dubai to find an adroit kitchen staff properly schooled in classic European technique, which is exactly why we love Amwaj. Seafood is the specialty on the French-derivative menu. Dishes may include torchon de foie gras with warm brioche toast, sautéed scallops fanned on the plate and topped with an elegant saffron-orange foam, or rack of lamb on eggplant compote with black-olive sauce.
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Antique Bazaar
As the name suggests, this deservedly popular Indian eatery resembles a wildly coloured antique bazaar, with dynamic Indian cooking to match. The preparations are classics, and they're deftly prepared. What really makes this place special is the combination of the food, raucous house band and Indian dancer. Note: bring earplugs if you're sensitive to noise.
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Aroos Damascus
Syrian food is similar to Lebanese, but they use more cumin in the fatoush and spice in the kebabs. Our favourite dish: arayees - Syrian bread stuffed with ground lamb and grilled. The sweetness of the bread plays off the gamey flavour of the meat. Great tabouleh, fantastic fresh-from-the-oven bread, huge outdoor patio, cool flickering neon.
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Asha's
Namesake of owner Asha Bhosle of Bollywood fame, Asha's packs a see-and-be-seen crowd of rich Indian expats into its sexy, low-light, tandoori-orange dining room, with ethnic-fusion dance music playing in the background. On our last visit, we had a gorgeous meal of spicy-ginger-garlic marinated prawns, followed by a gorgeous muscat gosht (tomato-and-butter-braised spicy lamb) - both Asha's personal recipes.
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Ashiana
In a town that knows good Indian, Ashiana's stands out as one of the best. Presentations of the northern Indian fare are brilliant: dum biryani is cooked in a pot sealed with bread, elegantly perfuming the meat. Sophisticated, complex curries justify the prices, as do the solicitous service, atmospheric dining room and live sitar music. Plan to linger long. Good vegetarian food too.
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Awtar
Emiratis love the opulent Bedouin tent-like atmosphere and warm welcome of this formal Lebanese restaurant, complete with a Brazilian belly dancer and blaring Lebanese pop - it's not uncommon for women to stand up, clap and sway to the music. The menu lists the usual mezze and kebabs, as well as a full page of raw-meat dishes, all served in mountainous portions.
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Basta Art Café
An ideal refuelling stop if exploring the Bastakiya Quarter, this leafy courtyard café in a traditional wind-tower building attracts a loyal local following who head here for Farah's refreshing 'Basta Specials' (fresh lime and mint juice) and big salads - the grilled haloumi, asparagus and mixed lettuce combo is deservedly popular. They also do delicious breakfasts and offer a healthy kids' menu.
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Bastakiah Nights
One of the city's most romantic restaurants, Bastakiah Nights occupies a restored home in this historic district, and the old Arabian-style atmosphere is fabulous. It also includes a few Emirati dishes on its Lebanese-based menu. Though you can order a la carte, we recommend the set menu, which includes soup, copious mezze, and choice of entrees, such as mixed grill or lamb stew.
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Bella Donna
There's a sea change afoot at Dubai's malls, with decent food taking its place alongside the heat-lamp horrors of the chain restaurants. So we come to pay homage to Bella Donna, at the head of the mall restaurant revolution, serving up fresh pastas (try the excellent Bolognese) and pizzas, as well as superb coffee.
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Benjarong
Gold-leafed columns, drop-dead views and a carved wooden ceiling make quiet Benjarong the prettiest Thai restaurant in town, ideal for a tête-à-tête with your paramour. Start with gung hom sabai (deep-fried prawns in egg noodles) or tom yam goong (spicy prawn soup with lime, lemongrass and chilli), then move on to the specialty: coconut curry - red or green - best served with duck and pineapple. For maximum atmosphere, book the tatami-style Ayotoya room and sit on cushions on the floor.
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BiCE
Expats from Italy call BiCE the best Italian restaurant in town. We can't disagree. In the classic tradition, the cooking is clean: the chef uses just a few top-quality ingredients and lets them shine.
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Bombay
It's worth a detour deep into Deira for Bombay's orthodox North Indian cooking. Come hungry and start with the kebab sampler (mutton, chicken, fish), then move onto mint-marinated fish cooked tandoori style, or a cardamom-rich saag gosht (lamb and spinach). There's lots for vegetarians. The French-style service by tuxedo-clad waiters is a surprise at this price, but we're not arguing. We're just happy they serve beer.
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Buddha Bar
At last a restaurant that knows the power of good lighting. So what if it's too dark and the bmm-bmm music requires you to shout over the table? You're in the shadow of a giant Buddha, rubbing shoulders with Dubai's beautiful crowd, and you look fabulous in that new outfit. Oh, the food? It (nearly) measures up to the room - a mishmash of Thai and Japanese with a dash of Chinese - but really, who cares? Like I said, you look a-m-a-z-i-n-g.
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Café Chic
Two-star Michelin-rated chef Philippe Gauvreau oversees Café Chic, a stalwart of haute-contemporary French cuisine. Top ingredients are flown in daily from France - line-caught fish from Brittany, Red Label guinea hen, Valrhona chocolate - and they're transformed into art by executive-chef Pierrick Cizéron. Go for a set menu, and request the sommelier pair wines - his list is one of Dubai's best. The room is dated, but the culinary acumen is spot-on.
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Casa Mia
Though one of the most dependable Italians in town, Casa Mia is well off the beaten path in Le Meridien Village. Friendly service and reliable cooking justify the trek. Start with beef carpaccio, then move on to wood-fired pizza or housemade pasta - scarf up the sauce with fresh-baked bread. Mains run high, upwards of Dh130 for a steak (albeit properly juicy and tender); stick to starch if you're on a budget.
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Cellar
Known best for its Friday brunch, this casual expat favourite serves gastro-pub fare, British classics with a contemporary twist. The braised lamb shoulder in filo pastry is tender and juicy, a solid choice. Order simple: sometimes the kitchen over styles. The crowd loves to party.
