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1897 Bar
Few bars are more alluring than 1897, with its lounge soundtrack, flickering candles, arabesque-patterned walls, and chic purple velvet bar stools and low sofas. But while the atmosphere is seductive enough, the cocktails by expert mixologist Sasha (formerly of Trilogy) are positively addictive - try the delicious purple Brumble (Bombay Sapphire and Chambord). The regulars are as beautiful as the bar.
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360°
Wander out the long pier to this rooftop with a circular outdoor bar offering sublime views of the Burj Al Arab. A shiny-shiny crowd of scenesters packs the place on Fridays; expect to deal with bouncers at the rope. Alas, the outdoor music ban imposed in 2007 means no more live DJs or dancing. But ask around. We've a feeling they'll come up with a solution, possibly by hosting DJs inside the downstairs restaurant. Expect s-l-o-w bar service - don't come thirsty. But oh, what a view.
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Agency at Emirates Towers
A cosmopolitan wine bar frequented by older businessmen, Agency is a civilized spot for a glass of French wine. (Skip the New World wines; they're strictly grocery-store labels.) Alas, it's in an office tower and feels like it. Focus your attention on the interesting varietals; go for a flight of four half pours. Good cheese fondue and finger foods like fried calamari.
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Agency at Souq Madinat Jumeirah
The Agency wine bar at Souq Madinat Jumeirah gets packed with khaki-clad tourists and expats. As at its sister branch at Emirates Towers, the wine list includes unusual varietals (skip the New World wines in favour of better French labels), but here there's a terrace overlooking the canals of the Madinat where you can glimpse the Burj Al Arab. Good luck snagging a table at peak times.
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Apartment
You're going to hear about this place, so we'll give you the lowdown. The tight windowless space feels like an underground bunker, but that doesn't stop throngs of self-conscious twenty-somethings from flocking here, hormones raging, every weekend. Come with people you like or risk isolation.
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Après
After four hours shopping at the Mall of the Emirates, a triple-berry cocktail becomes a very novel idea. The crowd at Après feels very expatty - loud and raucous - the polar opposite of what you see out the windows: Emiratis stumbling in the snow at Ski Dubai. Great chocolate-Cointreau fondue.
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Bahri Bar
One of our first-choice spots in winter, Bahri has a fabulous 2nd-floor veranda laid with Persian carpets and big cane sofas where you can drink in gorgeous views of the Burj Al Arab. It's the kind of place you take your visiting parents for after-dinner drinks. Inside is less impressive and way too crowded on weekends, but the cocktails are strong - if overpriced. For a touristy treat, order the camel-milk mocktail.
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Bar 44
The champagne lounge on the 44th floor of the Grosvenor House has extraordinary views of New Dubai's skyscrapers and the burgeoning marina. Done in a retro-1970s chic, with high-backed tufted-velvet banquettes and buttery-soft leather tub chairs, this is the spot to kick up your (high) heels with local swankers and raise a glass to excess. Good backup if Buddha Bar is full.
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Barasti Bar & Restaurant
This casual seaside bar is the locals' top spot for laid-back sundowners on a hot afternoon. It's the kind of place you don't have to dress up for, and can head to straight after a day at the beach. It even manages to maintain its laid-back air when a DJ is on the deck spinning chilled-out sounds for Dubai's body-conscious set.
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Blush
Blush attracts a more down-to-earth crowd than most clubs to its weekly nights of funky house featuring a wide range of well-known DJs, from Blush impresario Dion Mavath to Ministry of Sound favourite Mark Knight. Email Dion in advance to get on the guest list.
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Boudoir
Though snooty expats diss the tight-pants-and-straightened-hair Lebanese crowd at Boudoir, we love the look of the place. Tufted red-velvet booths, beaded curtains and tasselled draperies lend a super-model vibe - indeed, you may spot one among the wannabes - and the circular layout is perfect for twirling away from the occasional unwanted advance by a Lothario. High on the chic-o-meter. Look sharp or be ostracised.
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Buddha Bar
If there are celebs in town, they'll show up at Buddha Bar, where the dramatic Asian-inspired interiors are decked out with gorgeous chandeliers, a wall of reflective sheer glass, and an enormous Buddha lording over the heathens. The bartenders put on quite a show with their impressive shakes (think Tom Cruise in Cocktail ). Because the deep-red lighting is so central to the atmosphere, the bar opens only after dark. Arrive early or wait in line; otherwise book dinner for guaranteed admission.
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Café Havana
The coffee's okay and the food nothing special; it's the people-watching that's great: Emirati men kick back here for hours on end, providing a rare opportunity to rub shoulders with them.
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Carter's
For better or worse, Carter's is a Dubai institution. Love that kitsch Egyptian décor. Happy hour to Saturday to Thursday.
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Chi@The Lodge
The shiny-shiny fave of young expats, Chi sometimes hosts live music, but the big draws are its kick-ass DJs playing funk, house and hip-hop; ever-popular theme nights (think retro-'80s, skool disco, Halloween); velvet-plush surroundings; and big semi-outdoor dance floor and garden. Two sound systems and four big rooms mean that once you've worn out your legs, you can chill in a cush lounge or VIP cabana (provided you've made reservations and purchased a Dh500 -or-so bottle of booze).
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Cin-Cin Wine Bar
This chic spot with stunningly lit bar and colour-changing ice buckets (yes, that's right), has Dubai's finest wines-by-the-glass lists and best bar food. While the freshly shucked oysters are tempting we can never resist the divine Wagyu Beef Burger flight, assorted tiny-sized burgers served with rosemary and sea-salted fries. Check it out on Tuesday and Thursday champagne nights when DJ Stickyfingers spins some smooth sounds.
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Cosmo Café
The sleek metal-and-glass facade looks more Manhattan than Middle East, but if you're looking for a toehold on Arab expat life, you can glimpse beautiful, mainly Lebanese people sucking on sheesha at this stylish spot. Pretty good food, too.
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Dubliners
A friendly, boozy Irish bar with reliable pub grub and Guinness. Packed on match nights. Happy hour to . Try the pies.
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Fibber Magee's
Dubai's most authentic Irish pub is a scruffy boozer with great ales and stouts. Tuesday is quiz night (arrive by ). Great fun on match nights.
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Ginseng
A good spot to start the evening, Ginseng makes brilliant cocktails with everything from champagne to espresso. The faux-Asian décor needs a fluff job and too many hard surfaces mean high decibel levels when it fills up. Come early - and bring a wrap to deal with the too-cold a/c.
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Harry Ghatto's
Grab a posse of friends and belt out your favourites at this shoebox-sized karaoke bar. Drinks are expensive and service gruff, but we love the odd mix of people drawn here, including the occasional dishdasha -clad local.
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Ikandy
Wear white to Ikandy and your clothes will glow in the diffuse hot-pink light reflecting off the diaphanous fabric hanging from the palm trees. Think Ibiza pool party, only it's set on the 4th-floor pool deck of the Shangri-La hotel instead of the Balearics. Stellar views of the Burj Dubai. Note: open October to March only.
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Irish Village
The beer garden at this Irish pub with its kitsch façade is popular with expats. The after-work crowd packs the place on Thursday nights, but the weekend sees a more relaxed bunch lazing on the grass by the 'lake' with the ducks and a Guinness or three.
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Kasbar
Kasbar can be inconsistent - one night it's packed, the next it's dead - but we highly recommend you check out this sexy three-storey Moroccan-themed club, with glittering crystal chandeliers, a coffered ceiling, and big black-and-white-tiled dance floor. Call ahead to reserve a table on the mezzanine and take in the scene from above.
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Keva
Keva's Eurasia-meets-Ikea decor goes a bit overboard with fake grass walls in the ladies' toilets, but the low-slung seating, moody lighting, live DJ and big menu of surprisingly great bar nibbles make it ideal before twirling on the dance floor of the adjoining Lodge.
