Things to do in Chernivtsi
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Chernivsti University
Chernivsti University is like a trip on LSD. This fantastic red-brick ensemble, with coloured tiles decorating its pseudo-Byzantine, pseudo-Moorish and pseudo-Hanseatic wings, is the last thing you'd expect to see here. The architect responsible was Czech Josef Hlavka, who was also behind Chernivtsi's Former Armenian Cathedral, as well as large chunks of Vienna.
To the left as you pass the gatehouse is the Seminarska Church, now used for concerts and ceremonies. Straight ahead stands the former main palace residence of the Metropolitans, housing two remarkable staircases and a fantastic, 1st-floor Marmurovy Zal (hall). Whether you'll be able to access them is uncertain, b…
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Reflection
A completely atypical menu in such an unlikely city makes Reflection worth every extra kopeck. As if Waldorf and Caesar salads, vegetable fajitas, bruschetta, pesto with penne, teriyaki salad, lentil soup, pork with ripe mangoes etc weren’t sufficient reminders of the culinary world you thought you’d left behind when entering regional Ukraine, there are also freshly baked croissants or oatmeal at breakfast. The food is also usually well executed – our ‘fresh mango’ amazingly was.
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Kalynivsky Market
With its own police station, first-aid point and dedicated bank branches, the 33 hectare Kalynivsky Market is like a town unto itself. As a conduit into Ukraine for goods from neighbouring countries, it attracts some 50,000 shoppers a day and is a frenetic, wonderful phenomenon. You might not want to buy anything in particular, although it is good for baseball caps and trainers, and it’s great for people-watching.
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St Nicholas Cathedral
The city’s most unusual church is St Nicholas Cathedral. It’s called the ‘drunken church’, because of the four twisted turrets surrounding its cupola. Painted blue with golden stars, these turrets create an optical illusion, much like an Escher sketch. The cathedral is a 1930s copy of a 14th-century royal church in Curtea de Arges (Romania).
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Sorbonne
With its French pretensions writ large in dishes like ‘Mon Cher Ami’, ‘Tête a tête’ and ‘Déjà vu’, this is pretty upscale for the university district. However, the shaded terrace is a charming spot to cool off in summer and even if the grilled prawns (200uah) are out of your reach, sandwiches and salads remain affordable.
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Knaus
Although its menu retains a solid Russian alignment, Knaus does now offer Bavarian bratwurst to accompany its range of German beers. The restaurant also rents an apartment on the same courtyard.
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Music and Drama Theatre
The Music and Drama Theatre was designed in the same style of De Stijl that also inspired the Viennese architects of Odesa’s Opera and Ballet Theatre.
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Khelen
This is a very laid-back local café with humble food that’s excellent value. Choose a Formica table near the counter, or head for one of the private booths.
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Former Synagogue
Chernivtsi’s former synagogue was once famous for its exotic African/Middle Eastern style, but was turned into a cinema in 1954.
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Former Armenian Cathedral
The architect responsible for the Former Armenian Cathedral is Czech Josef Hlavka.
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Former Jewish Cemetery
The Former Jewish Cemetery is a melancholic jumble of leaning, overgrown headstones.
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