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Introducing Chernihiv

Modestly receding into provincial obscurity for the past millennium, Chernihiv, Ukraine's most northerly city, was once a a Kyivan Rus heavyweight frequented by 11th-century royalty. The residue of those glory days is a tight cluster of churches on a green bluff in the city's historical core, now a Unesco-listed site and one of the highlights of Polissya. Otherwise this northern outpost is laced with a slow provincial charm, the inert Desna River seemingly having given up on ever meeting the Dnipro, the population still deeming foreigners worthy of a stare on the dusty streets. The town makes for an easy day trip from the capital or book ahead for a night out in the cuds and a bit of deeper exploration into this seldom-visited corner of rural Ukraine.