Entertainment in Ukraine
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Kaffa
The recent onslaught of coffee houses has not changed one thing: long-standing Kaffa still serves the most heart-pumping, rich-tasting brew in town. Coffees and teas from all over the world are served in a pot sufficient for two or three punters in a blissfully smoke-free, whitewashed African-inspired interior – all ethnic masks, beads and leather.
reviewed
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B
Dzyha
This café-cum-art gallery in the shadow of the Dominican Cathedral has a relaxed vibe. It’s particularly popular with bohemian, alternative types, but seems to attract pretty much everyone, really. If it’s full there are other attractive options for a nibble or a cuppa joe nearby on postcard-worthy vul Virmenska. If you just can’t get enough, Dzyha has also been writing its vibe large at the ethnic music festival Pidkamin (pidkamin.ridne.net), south of Pochayiv.
reviewed
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C
Barsky
At the top end, new clubs are constantly trying to outdo each other in terms of price, decadence and beauty of clientele, such as Decadance House and Arena Night Club, but the talk of the town when we were there was the newly opened Barsky. To enter any of these you'll have to pass through some of the strictest feis kontrol (face control, ie door policy) in the city, so dress the part. Women usually get a substantial discount off the admission prices listed.
reviewed
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D
Taras Shevchenko National Opera Theatre
This is a lavish theatre (1899–1901) and a performance here is a grandiose affair. True imbibers of Ukrainian culture should not miss a performance of Zaporozhets za Dunaem (Zaporizhzhyans Beyond the Danube), a sort of operatic, purely Ukrainian version of Fiddler on the Roof. The opera, which plays roughly twice a month, is in Ukrainian, but has plenty of music, dance and colourful costumes to entertain all.
reviewed
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E
Robert Doms Beer House
This fantastic, utterly unique beer hall is located three stories underground in a centuries-old beer-storage vault once used by the neighbouring Lvivske brewery. It’s named after the brewery’s founder and features fresh Lvivske served in litre steins (12uah), plus German food and nightly live music in one of the vault’s four chambers. Another chamber has a mammoth TV screen for sports viewing.
reviewed
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Arena Night Club
At the top end, new clubs are constantly trying to outdo each other in terms of price, decadence and beauty of clientele, such as Arena Night Club, Decadance House and Barsky. To enter any of these you'll have to pass through some of the strictest feis kontrol (face control, ie door policy) in the city, so dress the part. Women usually get a substantial discount off the admission prices listed.
reviewed
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G
Dnipro Party Boats
To really go local take one of these 1½-hour ‘disco’ river cruises. They’re cheap, they’re cheesy, and they’re unpredictable. Just buy a ticket, board the boat (they leave when full) and start drinking. Didn’t think you’d get caught dead dancing to Russian pop? Think again. Catch the boats at pier 11, south of the richnoy vokzal (river boat terminal).
reviewed
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Martini Bar
American diner meets Scandinavian chic inside this classic cocktail bar (on pl Sovetskaya), but the local talking point is the bar’s summer patio. Newly designed each year, it was completely painted/decorated (even the floor) in Burberry’s signature yellow tartan. Pizza and beer are also offered in warm weather on the lawn terrace.
reviewed
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Olympic/Respublikansky Stadium
All Ukrainian national team matches, as well as most of Dynamo’s European matches, kick off at the larger Olympic/Respublikansky Stadium. Tickets for the stadium’s 100,000 seats are sold at kiosks in front of the entrance gates. This is also the scheduled venue for the final match of the Euro 2012 football championships.
reviewed
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Dynamo Stadium
Dynamo Kyiv is one of the most recognisable names in European football and Dynamo Stadium is the team’s modestly sized home. Ticket booths are out front near the statue of a young Valery Lobanovsky, the late, legendary coach of Dynamo Kyiv and the Ukrainian national team. There’s also a memorial to WWII team Start.
reviewed
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Solomiya Krushelnytska Lviv Theatre of Opera and Ballet
For an evening of high culture, and to enjoy the ornate building, take in a performance at the Solomiya Krushelnytska Lviv Theatre of Opera and Ballet. For some local colour catch a performance of Zaporozhets za Dunae, which runs once or twice a month. The theatre shuts down for most of July and August.
reviewed
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Babuin
This funky and fun venue is actually three entities in one: bar (by night), café (by day) and bookshop (all the time). We put it here because come 5pm the main activity is most definitely drinking alcoholic beverages, often to a live-music accompaniment. It’s a perennial winner of the slowest-service-in-Kyiv award.
reviewed
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L
Chicago Biker’s Bar
Soviet chic to the core, it features a pellet-gun gallery, KGB prison cell–like private rooms, and beer taps on the tables. There’s live music nightly and Shakhtar Donetsk games are shown on televisions embedded in oil barrels. It’s part of the multifunctional Chicago nightclub and entertainment complex.
reviewed
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M
Viola’s Bierstube
The Bierstube’s former sister bar is still run by Eric’s ex-wife, Viola. It’s similar to the Bierstube (down to the mugs o’ mustard), but the service is friendlier and better. The hard-to-find dark wooden door is on the left under the archway leading to the courtyard (it’s under a vent).
reviewed
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N
Odessa Philharmonic Hall
The best regional orchestra within the former Soviet Union is the Odessa Philharmonic Orchestra, led by charismatic and energetic American conductor Hobart Earle, a former student of Leonard Bernstein. This orchestra accounts for half the symphonies put on at the Odessa Philharmonic Hall.
reviewed
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O
O’Brien’s
Kyiv’s Irish pub fine service, atmosphere and beer selection. For sports nuts, they have multiple large screens, accommodate match requests and stay open late for big games. O’Brien’s attracts English, Irish and Scottish elements. It is affordable and is renowned for its breakfasts.
reviewed
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Art Club 44
This former Eric venue has suffered a big drop in the quality of its music. Still, it has a great atmosphere for watching live local bands –even if the thuggish bouncers now demand the hefty cover charge several hours before the music starts. Through the courtyard at 44, the unmarked entrance is on your left.
reviewed
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Q
Decadance House
New clubs are constantly trying to outdo each other in terms of price, decadence and beauty of clientele. Decadance House was the original VIP club, but you’ll have to pass through some of the strictest feis kontrol (face control, ie door policy) in the city, so dress the part.
reviewed
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R
Friends and Beer
This charming re-created USSR-era living room littered with photos of Russian film stars is proof that ‘Retro Soviet’ doesn’t have to mean political posters and Constructivist art. The huge TV screen is possibly not authentic for the period, but it’s great for sports.
reviewed
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L’Orangerie
Dnipropetrovsk’s nightclubs are fast attaining legendary status in Ukraine. A small but excellent nightclub in the centre is L’Orangerie. People come here to sit outside in wicker chairs, sip cosmopolitans and look cool. Women usually get in free to this place.
reviewed
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Sunduk Pub
Although the motif here is old movies, it still has a fairly traditional pub feel and a wide selection of imported and local beer. Still, most people come for the relatively cheap Ukrainian eats and outdoor patio. There’s a smokier, much less appealing version on vul Mykhaylivska 16.
reviewed
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U
Blindazh
This textbook dive bar, done up like a Red Army bunker, has old Kalashnikovs, grenades and other weaponry behind the bar for you to fondle. Order a ‘Boromirovka’ – Burn energy drink and tonic mixed with 14 shots of vodka and served in an old metal pail (130uah).
reviewed
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V
Pid Synoyu Plyashkoyu
With its nostalgia for the Polish-Austrian past and its dark interior, this tiny café at the back of a courtyard has a cosy, secretive atmosphere. It serves sandwiches and fondues, as well as wine and coffee with pepper. It’s hard to find; look for the blue bottle.
reviewed
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Shamrock Irish Pub
For a casual feed, or a shot of vodka, beer or whisky, come to this quiet venue, which actually feels not at all like an Irish pub. Despite its slogan ‘Open til the client’s last breath’, it has an annoying tendency to close early, as if it actually were in Ireland.
reviewed
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Captain Morgan
Captain Morgan (the name is pirated) is one of those cosy club–bar hybrids where it takes a critical mass of only about 20 people to get the party started. Capable DJs spin all night and there’s a downstairs lounge that’s as funky as it wants to be.
reviewed