Sights in Kerch
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Tsarske Kurgan
One of Kerch’s most talked-about attractions that is actually out in the boondocks and require genuine interest and tenacity - Tsarske Kurgan is an empty 4th-century BC burial mound, thought to be the grave of a Bosporan king. Its exterior is typically Scythian but its symmetrical interior was built by Greeks. To get here, catch the hourly bus 4 to the stop ‘Muzey’, walk back past this obviously Soviet ‘Underground Museum of the Defence of the Adzhimushkai Quarries’, down the dirt track (vul Skifskaya) under the buzzing electricity pylons, and past the rubbish dump and savage baying dogs. Veer left before the rail tracks and follow the track around. Leave yourself …
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Panticapaeum
The ruins of the ancient city of Panticapaeum have been revealed in an ongoing archaeological dig. Take the 432 stairs up the central Mithridates Hill - even if you have to pick you way through the broken beer bottles that litter every single one of those steps. The view from the summit is brilliant, and on the leeside is Panticapaeum. Be careful coming back down the stairs, especially at the prime viewing time of dusk, as a crucial railing is missing.
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Church of St John the Baptist
The faded but still candy-striped Church of St John the Baptist dates back to 717, this Byzantine building is Ukraine’s oldest surviving church.
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Eni-Kale
The Turkish fort of Eni-Kale looks great in photos, with its four pointed capsule-like turrets. But be warned: it's slightly more unassuming in real life.
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