Things to do in Kampala
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Uganda Arts & Crafts Village
Hidden away behind the National Theatre, this 'village' has a number of stalls selling handicrafts, such as caneware, woodcarvings and small trinkets from around the country, all at quite reasonable prices if you bargain.
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Fang Fang
Chinese restaurants are surprisingly prolific in Kampala, but some are better than others. The consensus in the city is that this is the best Chinese restaurant and the sheer numbers that pack the place each night attest to the quality of the food. Located in an anonymous office block, the interior is typical of a Chinese restaurant anywhere, but there is a large outdoor terrace for breezy nights.
There's a full selection of Chinese classics, and specialities include fried crispy prawns with ginger and garlic.
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Le Petit Bistro
Like much of Africa, steak is very popular in Uganda and this simple little restaurant cooks up some of the best meat in the city. Prices are pretty low and a selection of sauces is available. That's the good news. The bad news is that it can take as long as two hours for food to arrive, so be patient and let the drinks flow.
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Masala Chaat House
The sheer number of Indians eating here should tell you something about the authentic flavours and affordable prices at this local institution. Located opposite the National Theatre, it serves cheap vegetarian thalis and has stacks more to keep vegetarians smiling for the night.
Meat and fish dishes are also available, as well as a wide selection of tasty masala dosas (a large savoury crepe stuffed with a delicious filling of potatoes cooked with onions and curry leaves) and other southern Indian delights.
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Blue Mango
For a good selection of grub from all over the globe, head to the suburban sanctuary that is the Blue Mango. Big bush furniture, cushions to sink in and flowing African drapes provide the backdrop for a very relaxed meal. The menu includes cheaper bar meals, such as pies with mash and crisp salads, and a more sophisticated range of meat, poultry and fish with a regional accent. On Friday it fills up with the post-work crowd.
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Banana Boat
An expanding empire, this sophisticated craft shop now has three branches. The original has a few local items, but many of the smart pieces come from all over Africa, including cards, batik, jewellery, clothing and carvings. There is a similar branch in the Garden City Complex, plus a branch with an emphasis on homes and interiors in the newer Lugogo Mall.
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Fasika
Right opposite the crazy Capital Pub in Kabalagala, Fasika is the leading Ethiopian restaurant in Kampala. The menu is a good introduction to Ethiopian eats and includes a tasty Ethiopian answer to a thali (mixed curry selection, including rice and pappadams), with a little bit of everything served on injera (unleavened bread).
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Exposure Africa
Next door to Daisy's Arcade, this is the biggest craft market in Kampala, with about 30 stalls offering crafts from Uganda and beyond. Prices vary wildly between stalls, so shop around and don't forget your bargaining hat. Much of the merchandise comes from neighbouring Kenya, despite what the sellers claim.
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Canaan Restaurant
Just off Kampala Rd, the outdoor terrace here is popular for people-watching during the busy lunch hour in the city centre. Local businessmen and officials fill the tables, and drinking is just as popular as dining. The menu is limited, but if you need a quick steak or a roast chicken, it can deliver.
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Khana Khazana
Regarded by some expat residents as the classiest Indian restaurant in Kampala, this is housed in a residential villa near the golf course. It is the most expensive option in the city, but this doesn't dissuade the discerning crowd. It has recently spread its wings to Kigali, Rwanda.
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Café Pap
A stylish café on bustling Parliament Ave, this might be the place to meet some movers and shakers. Uganda coffees are promoted here from the slopes of Elgon, the Rwenzoris and the Virungas, but there is also an excellent menu of sandwiches, paninis and full breakfasts.
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Mamba Point
For the best in Italian dining, make for Mamba Point, where the pasta is home-made and the menu as close to the homeland as you might hope to find in Africa. Save space for the exquisite desserts, which include lime syllabub and chocolate truffle torte.
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Kibuli Mosque
There are several prominent religious buildings in Kampala that might interest some spiritually inclined travellers, including the gleaming white Kibuli Mosque dominating Kibuli Hill on the other side of the train station from Nakasero Hill.
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La Fontaine
La Fontaine is a popular café-restaurant in this area. There is a filling lunchtime buffet, a great range of salads, including spicy Thai or blue cheese, and a good juice selection.
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Kabaka's Trail
The Kabaka's Trail is a community tourism project to introduce visitors to the secret history of the Buganda people.
Six sites around Kampala make up the trail, including several tombs, a prison and a waterfall.
The Naggalabi Buddo Coronation Site, a short distance off the road to Masaka, is where the Buganda kings are crowned, including the current kabaka Ronald Mutebi II. There are several huts similar to those at Kasubi Tombs, as well as a natural throne from a tree root. This is the most accessible of all the sites, as minibuses run here from the new taxi park in Kampala - ask for Naggalabi Buddo stage.
Ssezibwa Falls is a popular beauty spot with locals, just off the r…
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Kasubi Tombs
The Kasubi Tombs, just off Masiro Rd, were first built in 1881 and are worth a look for a dose of traditional culture. There are several huge traditional reed and bark cloth buildings of the kabakas of the Buganda people. The group of buildings contains the tombs of Muteesa I, his son Mwanga (Sir Daudi Chwa II) and his son Edward Muteesa II, father of the current kabaka, Ronald Mutebi II (known also by his Bugandan name, Muwenda). Edward Muteesa II died in London in 1969, three years after being deposed by Obote. The tombs are taken care of by the Ganda clans.
The Kasubi Tombs are open year-round, including holidays. Remove your shoes before entering the main building. Yo…
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Ndere Centre
If you're interested in traditional dance and music, try to catch a performance of the Ndere Troupe. It's composed of members of the many ethnic groups in Uganda and has gained international acclaim on world tours. The troupe has a new base in Ntinda, the Ndere Centre, out beyond the Blue Mango, which includes an auditorium, a restaurant-bar and even some accommodation. Performances take place every Sunday at 18:00 and are inexpensive.
It also promotes a comedy night, every Friday at 19:00. Those with a serious interest in African dance could stay here. 'You stay in this guesthouse, you are sure to become a philosopher', it promises.
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Le Chateau
Popular for serious steaks, Le Chateau is home to the Quality Cuts butchery, guaranteeing top meat. This place is absurdly fashionable among well-to-do Ugandans. The extensive menu favours French cuisine, and includes frogs' legs and snails, so if you are looking to indulge, this is a good place to do it.
Ice cream is very popular in Kampala and there are several parlours spread across the city. The best ice cream in Kampala is found at Le Chateau, but the location is inconvenient for a casual treat.
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Musicians Club 1989
Kampala musicians get together every Monday at the National Theatre for informal jam sessions and live performances. This is a must if you are in the city, as the place fills up with Ugandans letting off steam after a Monday back at work and the drinks flow. On the second and last Monday of the month, the whole event shifts outside the theatre and becomes a mini-festival, complete with beer tents and a serious sound system. A great night out.
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Fez Brasserie
Set in the grounds of Kampala's first boutique hotel, the Emin Pasha, this restaurant has quickly won over the discerning local crowd thanks to a fusion menu that includes flavours from five continents. Highlights from the ever-evolving menu include the signature aubergine tower with goats cheese, roast peppers and pesto, Moroccan lamb and Cuban spatchcock poussin… impressive stuff! Vegetarians are also well represented.
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1000 Cups Coffee House
For a coffee kick from Brazil to Vietnam and everything in between, caffeine cravers should head here. 'A cup for every nation' is its motto and it doesn't neglect the homebrews from Uganda. There is also a menu of light bites, such as salads and sandwiches, and sweet pastries. It's a good place to hang out and catch up with the rest of the world, as there is a large selection of international newspapers and magazines.
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Haandi
It is time for London to concede: Kampala is the capital of fine Indian dining and Haandi is the hub. This restaurant is pure class, the presentation and service impeccable, and the menu includes the best of North Indian frontier cuisine. This is not the place to limit yourself to a chicken tikka masala. Experiment a little with the tilapia (Nile perch) curries or the murg-e-kahsa.
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Krua Thai
If you are after the taste of Thailand, Krua Thai is an authentic family-run restaurant up in the popular Kololo area of the city. The menu includes all the familiar greatest hits, including pad Thai, laab and tôm yam kung, as well as some regional specialities. Those used to dining in Thailand might want to ask staff to up the chilli count, as they tone down the spices on most dishes.
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Owino Market
The busiest market in Kampala is Owino Market, which sprawls around the Nakivubo Stadium, near the taxi parks. Here you can find all sorts of goods for sale, but it is most popular with travellers for its wide range of second-hand clothes from Europe, Asia and the USA. Bargain hard, as they tend to raise the prices when mzungus (white people) are sniffing around.
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Capital Pub
An infamous imbibing institution in Kabalagala, this is cut from the same cloth as Al's. Check out the elaborate eaved roof at the back, with nearly a dozen pool tables, making getting a game that much easier. This place is always busy and has more than its fair share of pushy prostitutes from all over the region, but most of them troop off to Al's by the early hours.
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