Turkey's best lahmacun (Arabic-style pizza) restaurants reputedly huddle in Gölbaşı's labyrinth of lanes, and the 'White House' is a great place to try plate-covering pizza studded with spicy ızot. Also served is ciğer kebap (grilled skewered liver), a popular breakfast. Grab an upstairs table on the breezy terrace and observe Urfa's gentle mayhem down below as you dig in.