Turkish restaurants in The Black Sea & Northeastern Anatolia
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A
Vatan Lokantası
Don't expect culinary revelations in this snappy joint, just the usual suspects honestly prepared and served by attentive waiters. Grab a tavuk şiş and satisfy the inner self.
reviewed
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B
Bistro Kars
The Bistro Kars captures the hearts and tummies of well-heeled locals and visitors alike. The list of meze gallops through patlıcan (aubergine), yoghurt, pepper, salads and other goodies that are too hard to pronounce - all irresistibly fresh. You can also dig into well-executed meat and fish dishes and wash it all down with a glass of wine or a beer (hallelujah!).
The dining room is an enchanting mix of elegance and rustic charm, but on a hot summer's day the breezy terrace is a sure winner.
reviewed
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C
Besse
If you're in search of a bit of sophistication, Besse fits the bill perfectly. It is done out in soothing yellow tones and features parquet flooring and dim lights. The kitchen turns out superior cooking, with an emphasis on grills, salads and stews - try the excellent ali nazik, Besse's signature dish. It's deep in the heart of a vibrant area on the 1st floor of a bland building. If only alcohol was available!
reviewed
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D
Safa 3, Çorba 1 Paça Salonu
If you're an adventurous foodie, head to this quirky little restaurant. Regulars swear by the kelle (mutton's head) – the spicy lentil soup is more approachable.
reviewed
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E
Çift Mağara
The dining room is directly carved into the rocky bluff that overlooks the Gölbaşı, but the lovely terrace for dining alfresco beats the cavernous interior. Try the içli köfte (ground lamb and onion with a bulgur coating).
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F
Hasankeyf Saklıkent Aile Kebap Lahmacun & Pide Salonu
Serious travelling or hiking requires serious nourishment and this buzzing eatery east of the main drag gets the thumbs up for its invigorating fare - the Saklıkent kebap, with a bit of everything, will assuage all hunger pangs. The décor is a bit kitsch (a mock cavern and walls adorned with cheesy frescoes) but after so many neon-lit establishments you may find it almost stylish.
reviewed
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Küçe Başı Et Lokantası
This outfit has a wide-ranging menu and original setting (the room at the back is designed like a rustic barn). Try innovative dishes like tavuk tava (deep-fried chicken meat in a flat-bottomed pan).
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Çardaklı Köşk
This old house has been so restored it feels almost new. Food is only so-so – the real wow is the regular live music and the view over Gölbaşı from the upstairs terrace.
reviewed
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Fasıl Ocakbaşı
This place is housed in an unsightly concrete building, at a major intersection. Never mind, the interior is much more elegant, with parquet floors, dark wood furniture, earthy tones and large windows. The menu covers enough territory to please most palates but results can be patchy.
reviewed
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Antep Ocakbaşı
This eatery is up some stairs in an unremarkable block. The stomach-groaning menu features all the usual suspects, including mezes, pide, grills and kebaps. The crowd ranges from chattering families to giggling students and crusty old men, giving the place a nice buzz.
reviewed
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K
Kayabaşı Cafe Restorant
After a turn around the nearby park, nab a table on the terrace and warm yourself with a kebap, a pide or balık (fish) in this well-positioned eatery, about 500m west of the centre. Forget the cold beer in hand - it's not licensed.
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L
Şafak Kahvaltı & Yemek Salonu
Nosh on freshly prepared meat dishes, hearty casseroles and stuffed vegetables in this brisk Diyarbakır institution. It's a good place to partake in a restorative morning breakfast with still-warm flatbread, luscious kaymak (clotted cream) and gooey honey. It also does superb crisp wood-fired pide and is open around the clock if you arrive on a late bus.
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M
Pinarbaşı Konağı
With its good food and traditional surrounds, this eatery has bags of character. It occupies a wonderful old Urfa house where you dine on floor cushions in a series of rooms set around a courtyard. There's live music in the evening.
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Altınşiş
Business is brisk here as the lunchtime punters pile in for their daily fill-up. You'll find all the usual suspects. Judging by the sarma beyti (a kind of kebap), the servings are voluminous, so bring an empty tum.
reviewed
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Öz Urfa Kebap
With its all-wood décor, this cheery little joint resembles a Swiss chalet. The food is varied and savoury, and ayran (yogurt drink) is doled out with a ladle. The small shaded terrace is a plus.
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Çınar Restaurant ve Et Lokantası
It's more or less the same story as for Kebabistan in this long-standing favourite. The eclectic menu focuses on pide, kebaps, grills and stews. The chef recommends the kaburga dolması.
reviewed
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Q
Hürrem Sultan Sofrası
An above-average cafeteria restaurant in shades of pistachio, enlivening the usual kebap-grill spectrum with regional specialities such as muhlama and kuymak (melted cheese dishes).
reviewed
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R
Salon Asya
With its doesn't-get-more-central location, bright dining room and good repertoire of classic dishes, this long-running eatery is one of the essential culinary stops you should make while in town.
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Gaziantep Sofrası
Facing the Erzurum Hotel, it has colourful surrounds and a congenial rooftop terrace complete with cushions.
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T
Aslan Yemek Salonu
An excellent-value stomach-filler, with a wide selection of meat dishes.
reviewed
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U
Manici Hotel
With excellent meze and traditional Turkish mains, the fully-licensed restaurant at the Manici Hotel is an elegant affair framed by paintings of a roll call of Ottoman Sultans. If your on-the-road diet has largely been an informal infusion of kebaps and pide, here's your chance to dig out your cleanest dirty shirt for a special night out.
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Lezzet Lokantası
In business since 1935, this lokanta serves lunchtime staples, chunky chips, kebaps and commendable lahmacun. It all comes with outside seats overlooking the square and a sountrack of the waiters calling to passersby.
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Çarşi Konağı
Escape the main drag's commercial buzz at this lovingly restored 450-year old house, now concealing a leafy courtyard and poignant reminders of its former Jewish owners. (Look for the carved Star of David in the wooden ceiling). A wide array of kebaps, grills and salads are on offer, and don't be surprised if you're asked to stay for an extended çay session with friendly Diyar locals.
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Üstad
Locals squeeze into this compact lokanta, one of the eateries right on the main square. The lunchtime staples include biber dolması (stuffed peppers), which come with a surprisingly robust pinch of chilli, reminding you how far east you've travelled.
reviewed
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Halil İbrahim Sofrası
One word describes this downtown hot spot: yum. The eclectic food is well presented and of high quality, with service to match, served in sleek surrounds. Try the rich and tender İskender kebap. Pide buffs should target the generous 'pide special', with a bit of everything.
reviewed