Things to do in Mardin
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Simit Sarayı
Housed in a beautiful stone mansion, Simit Sarayı is a deliciously cool haven from the Mesopotamian sun and features good coffee, freshly-squeezed juices, pastries and muffins. Free wi-fi and a location opposite the Sabancı Museum seal the deal.
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Shiluh
Viticulture has been practised by Syriac Christian communities throughout the region for more than 5000 years, and up six different wines are usually available for sampling and purchase here.
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Sakıp Sabancı Mardin City Museum
Housed in a carefully-restored former army barracks, this superb new museum showcases the fascinating history and culture of Mardin. Excellent English-language translations and effective use of audio and video reinforce how cosmopolitan and multi-cultural the city's past was. Downstairs is used as an art gallery for a rotating series of exhibitions, often including images by iconic Turkish photographers.
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Old Mardin House
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Melik Mahmut Camii
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Latifiye Camii
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Çamli Kösk
Join the moustachioed throngs in Mardin's most authentic tea and coffee house. In between blokey rounds of backgammon, cards and okey, the faded amber patina of the interior also showcases the elaborate and choreographed ritual of mirra coffee. Bring along your phrasebook, because conversation with the friendly regulars is virtually mandatory.
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Abbabar Bar
Yes, it is possible to get a cold beer in old Mardin. Either retire to the expansive terrace for views all the way to Syria, or grab an indoor table downstairs and wait for the live Turkish music to kick off. From Wednesday to Saturday, that's usually from 8pm to 1am.
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Vitamin
With bright orange walls adorned with musical instruments, this pea-sized joint is Mardin's kookiest spot. Freshly squeezed juice is served in glasses filled to the brim.
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Sultan İsa (Zinciriye) Medresesi
Dating from 1385, the complex's highlight is the imposing recessed doorway, but make sure you wander through the pretty courtyards, lovingly tended by the caretaker, and onto the roof to enjoy the cityscape. The tea garden is a top spot to sit and survey Mardin's beauty.
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Şehidiye Camii
Across the street from the post office rises the elegant, slender minaret of this 14th-century mosque. It's superbly carved, with colonnades all around, and three small bulbs superimposed at the summit. The base of the minaret sports a series of pillars.
Also worth visiting is the 14th-century Latifiye Camii, behind the Akbank, where a shady courtyard has a şadırvan in the middle.
Nearby, in the vicinity of the Artuklu Kervansarayı, the eye-catching Hatuniye and Melik Mahmut Camii have been fully restored.
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Post Office
Turkey's most impressive former post office is housed in a 17th-century caravanserai covered with carvings, including teardrops in stone dripping down the walls. At the time of writing, the building was being diligently restored and was due to reopen in 2013.
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Mardin Museum
This superbly restored late-19th-century mansion sports carved pillars and elegant arcades on the upper floor. Inside, it has a small but well-displayed collection including a finely detailed 7th-century-BC Assyrian vase and finds from Girnavaz, a Bronze Age site 4km north of Nusaybin.
Afterwards, head east along Cumhuriyet Caddesi, keeping your eye out for a fabulous example of the town's domestic architecture on your left – the three-arched facade of an ornately carved old Mardin house.
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Rido'nun Yeri
Keeping it simple for several generations of the same family with perfectly grilled lamb, fluffy flatbreads, and rustic bowls of ayran.
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Kasımiye Medresesi
Built in 1469, two domes stand over the tombs of Kasım Paşa and his sister, but the highlights are the sublime courtyard walled with arched colonnades and the magnificent carved doorway. Upstairs, you can see the students' quarters, before ascending the stairs to the rooftop for another great Mardin panorama. It's 800m south of Yeni Yol, and well signposted.
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Kamer Cafe Mutfak
Operated by the Kamer Vakif ('Moon Foundation'), a support organisation for women who are victims of domestic violence, this terrific restaurant serves some of the best local cuisine in Mardin. Different women cook on a rotating basis, dishing up authentic and tasty versions of Kurdish bulgur wheat pilav and içli köfte. There's occasional live music amid the rustic and arty ambience.
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İpek Yemek Salonu
Pop in here for tasty and filling prepared dishes and soups.
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Forty Martyrs Church
This church dates back to the 4th century, and was renamed in the 15th century to commemorate Cappadocian martyrs, now remembered in the fine carvings above the entrance. Services are held here each Sunday, and there's a wonderful inner courtyard punctuated with delicate birdsong. A caretaker is usually on hand to provide access to the church's compact, but beautiful, interior.
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Emir Hamamı
This hamam's history goes back to Roman times. After a sauna and massage combo, take in the great views of the Mesopotamian plains from the hamam's terrace. Unfortunately the heritage ambience of the interior is dulled by the use of fluorescent lighting.
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Cercis Murat Konağı
The Cercis occupies a traditional Syrian Christian home with two finely decorated rooms and a terrace with stunning views. Mekbuss (aubergine pickles with walnut), kitel raha (Syrian-style meatballs) and dobo (lamb with garlic, spices and black pepper) rank among the highlights. Dive into the meze platter (TL35) for a taste of everything that's good. Try and book a couple of days ahead, or drop by at lunchtime and book for dinner. Wine and beer are also served.
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Atilla Çay Bahçesi
Tea garden with phenomenal views over old Mardin and the plains of Mesopotamia.
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Bazaar
Mardin's rambling commercial hub parallels Cumhuriyet Caddesi one block down the hill. Donkeys are still a main form of transport, and look out for saddle repairers resurrecting even the shabbiest examples.
Look for the secluded Ulu Camii, a 12th-century Iraqi Seljuk structure that suffered badly during the Kurdish rebellion of 1832. Inside it's fairly plain, but the delicate reliefs adorning the minaret make a visit worthwhile.
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Antik Sur
Ease into the shaded surrounds of this wonderfully restored caravanserai. Turkish tourists love the authentic local flavours and the opportunity to try Assyrian wine. Live music kicks off around 8pm most weekends, and laid-back teahouses fill the upper level if you're ready to bring out your backgammon A-game.
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