Things to do in Mardin
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Vitamin
With its dramatic bright orange walls adorned with musical instruments, this pea-sized joint on the main drag has to be Mardin's kookiest spot. Freshly squeezed juices are served in glasses filled to the brim.
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Sultan İsa (Zinciriye) Medresesi
Dating from 1385, the complex's highlight is the imposing recessed doorway, but make sure you wander through the pretty courtyards, lovingly tended by the caretaker, and onto the roof to enjoy the cityscape.
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Şehidiye Camii
Across the street from the post office rises the elegant, slender minaret of this 14th-century mosque. It's superbly carved, with colonnades all around, and three small bulbs superimposed at the summit. The base of the minaret sports a series of pillars.
Also worth visiting is the 14th-century Latifiye Camii, behind the Akbank, where a shady courtyard has a şadırvan in the middle.
Nearby, in the vicinity of the Artuklu Kervansarayı, the eye-catching Hatuniye and Melik Mahmut Camii have been restored.
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Post Office
Turkey's most impressive post office is housed in a 17th-century caravanserai with carvings, including those around the windows and teardrops in stone dripping down the walls.
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Mardin Museum
This superbly restored late-19th-century mansion sports carved pillars and elegant arcades on the upper floor. Inside, it has a small but well-displayed collection including a finely detailed 7th-century-BC Assyrian vase and finds from Girnavaz, a Bronze Age site 4km north of Nusaybin.
Afterwards, head east along Cumhuriyet Caddesi, keeping your eye out for a fabulous example of the town's domestic architecture on your left – the three-arched facade of an ornately carved old Mardin house.
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Kepapçı Pide
Cheap and cheerful wood-fired gems, perfect for the cash-strapped overland traveller.
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Kasımiye Medresesi
Built in 1469, two domes stand over the tombs of Kasım Paşa and his sister, but the highlights are the sublime courtyard walled with arched colonnades and the magnificent carved doorway. Upstairs, you can see the students' quarters, before ascending the stairs to the rooftop for another great Mardin panorama. It's 800m south of Yeni Yol.
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Kamer Vakif
Operated by the Kamer Vakif ('Moon Foundation'), a support organisation for women who are victims of domestic violence, this terrific restaurant serves some of the best local cuisine in Mardin. Up to 10 different women cook on a rotating basis, dishing up authentic and tasty versions of Kurdish bulgur wheat pilav and içli köfte. Welcome to one of the best eateries in eastern Turkey.
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Forty Martyrs Church
To the west of town and dating from the 15th century, the church has an entrance decorated with martyrs. Knock on the door to alert the caretaker. Services are held here each Sunday.
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Emir Hamamı
This hamam's history goes back to Roman times and it is one of the most atmospheric in Turkey. After a sauna and massage combo, take in the great views of the Mesopotamian plains from the hamam's terrace.
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Cercis Murat Konağı
The Cercis occupies a traditional Syrian Christian home with two finely decorated rooms and a terrace with stunning views. Treat yourself to a series of dainty dishes featuring recipes from the days of yore and a creative twist (not a kebap in sight). Mekbuss (aubergine pickles with walnut), kitel raha (Syrian-style meatballs) and dobo (lamb with garlic, spices and black pepper) rank among the highlights. Dive into the meze platter (TL30) for a taste of everything that's good. Try and book a couple of days ahead, or drop by at lunchtime and book for dinner. Wine and beer are also served. Service can be a tad stuffy, so dig out your cleanest dirty shirt.
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Çay Bahçesi
The perfect place to scribble a few postcards: 'The views over old Mardin and Mesopotamia are phenomenal…'
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Bazaar
Mardin's rambling commercial hub parallels Cumhuriyet Caddesi one block down the hill. Here charmingly decorated donkeys are still the main form of transport. Look out also for saddle repairers who can seemingly resurrect even the shabbiest examples.
Keep your eyes open for the secluded Ulu Cami, a 12th-century Iraqi Seljuk structure that suffered badly during the Kurdish rebellion of 1832. Inside it's fairly plain, but the delicate reliefs adorning the minaret make a visit worthwhile.
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Antik Sur
Ignore the incongruous Ronald McDonald statue out the front and disappear into the shaded surrounds of this wonderfully restored caravanserai. Turkish tourists love the authentic local flavours and the opportunity to try Assyrian wine. Live music kicks off around 8pm most weekends, and laid-back teahouses fill the upper level if you're ready to bring out your backgammon A-game.
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