Things to do in Kars
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Ocakbaşı Restoran
Resisting the passage of time, this well-established restaurant remains at the pinnacle of Kars' eating scene. The ali nazık (aubergine purée with yoghurt and meat) or the Anteplim pide (sesame bread stuffed with meat, cheese, parsley, nuts and eggs), its two signature dishes, should win awards. The pictorial menu, with fairly accurate English translations, is of great help. It has two adjoining rooms, including a mock troglodytic one (wow!), but it's not licensed (boo!).
reviewed
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B
Kars Castle
North of the river in the older part of the city, this is worth the knee-jarring climb, if only for the smashing views over the town and the steppe in fine weather. Records show that Saltuk Turks built a fortress here in 1153. It was torn down by the Mongol conqueror Tamerlane in 1386 and rebuilt several times in the following centuries. The castle was the scene of bitter fighting during and after WWI. When the Russian armies withdrew in 1920, control of Kars was left in the hands of the Armenian forces, until the republican armies took the kalesi.
reviewed
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C
Barış Türkü Cafe & Disco
The Barış was the flavour of the month when we visited, and it's easy to see why. Housed in a historic mansion, this atmosphere-laden café-bar-disco-restaurant has a happening buzz and is a magnet for students of both sexes who come here to flirt, gossip, puff a nargileh, dance and listen to live bands (three times a week). If hunger beckons after swigging more than a few glasses of Efes in the basement, you can order an excellent yayla kebap (kebap with yoghurt) to restore balance to the brain.
reviewed
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D
Bistro Kars
The Bistro Kars captures the hearts and tummies of well-heeled locals and visitors alike. The list of meze gallops through patlıcan (aubergine), yoghurt, pepper, salads and other goodies that are too hard to pronounce - all irresistibly fresh. You can also dig into well-executed meat and fish dishes and wash it all down with a glass of wine or a beer (hallelujah!).
The dining room is an enchanting mix of elegance and rustic charm, but on a hot summer's day the breezy terrace is a sure winner.
reviewed
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E
Church of the Apostles
On the way to Kars Castle, assorted crumbling reminders of Kars' ancient past huddle along the riverbanks, including the Church of the Apostles. Built between 932 and 937 for the Bagratid King Abas, it was repaired extensively and turned into a mosque in 1579 when the Ottomans rebuilt much of the city; the Russians added the porches in the 19th century. The 12 relief carvings on the drum are of the apostles.
reviewed
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Kars Museum
On the eastern fringes of the town, the Kars Museum has exhibits from the Old Bronze Age, the Urartian, Roman and Greek periods, and the Seljuk and Ottoman eras. Photographs show excavations at Ani and the ruins of some of the Armenian churches in Kars province.
reviewed
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Fasıl Ocakbaşı
This place is housed in an unsightly concrete building, at a major intersection. Never mind, the interior is much more elegant, with parquet floors, dark wood furniture, earthy tones and large windows. The menu covers enough territory to please most palates but results can be patchy.
reviewed
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Kayabaşı Cafe Restorant
After a turn around the nearby park, nab a table on the terrace and warm yourself with a kebap, a pide or balık (fish) in this well-positioned eatery, about 500m west of the centre. Forget the cold beer in hand - it's not licensed.
reviewed
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H
Seyidoğlu
The place towards all heads turn when it comes to sampling a heavenly baklava or a sticky dondurma (ice cream) in civilised surroundings. You can also chow down on inexpensive snacks. Ah, luscious Seyidoğlu.
reviewed
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Eylül Pastanesi
If you've got the munchies, this colourful pastry shop has a wide range of treats, best enjoyed at the small tables out the front. It's also a good place to start the morning with a hearty kahvaltı.
reviewed
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Yağmurcu Cafe & Bar
A handsome disco-bar popular with trendy young things, come here to sample a glass of beer during semester time. With an interesting mix of wood and stone patterns, the décor here is imaginative.
reviewed
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Antep Sofrası
The pastel-coloured walls of this relative newcomer are only part of its appeal. It's usually the tasty kebaps, pide and other feel-good food that keep the cash register ringing.
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Sema Tatlı Pastanesi
With a remarkable rack of cakes, pastries and puddings from which to choose, plus a mellow atmosphere and a historic setting, this is the ideal spot for capping a meal off.
reviewed
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Antep Lahmacun Salonu
Pide and lahmacun (Arabic pizza) aficionados head straight to this humble joint to gobble a flavoursome local-style pizza at pauper's prices any time of the day.
reviewed
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Taş Köprü
One of the more attractive – and intact – structures in the older part of the city is this 15th-century stone bridge, ruined by an earthquake and rebuilt in 1725.
reviewed
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İstihkam Çay Bahçesi
This leafy spot by the canal is the perfect salve after trudging up to the castle. Sip a glass of tea in the shade.
reviewed
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Beylerbeyi Sarayı
The ruins of the Beylerbeyi Sarayı (Beylerbeyi Palace) nestle beneath Kars Castle.
reviewed
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Q
Kızılay Hamam
The cleanest hamam (bathhouse) in Kars is the modern Kızılay Hamam.
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R
Ulu Cami
Near the Church of the Apostles you'll see the ruins of the Ulu Cami.
reviewed
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Semazen
This buzzy joint cranks out above-average kebaps and pide, as well as tasty ready-made meals. The B&W pictures of old Kars hung on the walls are a nice touch, too.
reviewed
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Russian Monuments
As you walk around the town, you will see a gobsmacking collection of Russian belle époque mansions and other buildings sprinkled around the city centre. Many of them have been restored and turned into administrative offices. The best place to start exploring is the Fethiye Camii, a converted 19th-century Russian Orthodox church, which stands majestically south of the centre.
reviewed
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Kümbet Camii
On the way to the castle, along the riverbanks huddle assorted crumbling reminders of Kars' ancient past, including this former church. Built between 932 and 937 for the Bagratid King Abas, it was turned into a mosque in 1579 when the Ottomans rebuilt much of the city; the Russians added the porches in the 19th century. The 12 relief carvings on the drum are of the apostles.
Near the mosque you'll see the ruins of the Ulu Cami and the Beylerbeyi Sarayı (Beylerbeyi Palace) nestling beneath the castle.
reviewed
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Döneristan Et Lokantası
There's a lot to like about this bright venue. Munch on ultra-fresh sulu yemekler, salads, mezes and döner kebaps at puny prices. The menu changes daily according to seasonal produce and whim.
reviewed
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Doğuş Pastanaleri
Cakes, puddings and a delightfully delicious assortment of ice creams and other goodies are on offer at this Kars standby. Don't have a sweet tooth? Come anyway, as it also features the usual suspects.
reviewed
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Barış Cafe Pub
Housed in a historic mansion, this atmosphere-laden cafe-bar-disco has a happening buzz and is a magnet for students of both sexes who come here to gossip, puff a nargileh and listen to live bands (three times a week). If hunger beckons, snacks are available. The disco in the basement is something to behold – headscarved women tear it up on the dance floor!
reviewed
