Things to do in Diyarbakir
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İç Kale
Diyarbakýr's single most conspicuous feature is its great circuit of basalt walls, probably dating from Roman times, although the present walls date from early Byzantine times (AD 330-500). At almost 6km in length these walls are said to be second in extent only to the Great Wall of China. They make a striking sight whether you're walking along the top or the bottom.
You can ascend the walls of the İç Kale to enjoy the fine views of the Tigris, flanked by a patchwork of market gardens, as it meanders 2km to 3km south to flow under the 11th-century On Gözlu Köprüsü (Ten-Eyed Bridge).
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Meryem Ana Kilisesi
Still used by Orthodox Syrian Christians, this church is beautifully maintained, although only about seven families still attend services. Local kids will show you the way.
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Yedi Kardeş Burcu
Fortunately, the most easily accessible stretch of walls is also the most interesting in terms of inscriptions and decoration. Start near the Mardin Kapısı close to the Deliller Han, a stone caravanserai now home to the Otel Büyük Kervansaray. Be sure not to miss Nur Burcu (Tower Nur), the Yedi Kardeş Burcu , with two Seljuk lion bas-reliefs, which you can only see from outside the walls, and the Malikşah Burcu (Tower of Malik Şah, also called Ulu Badan), which has some bas-reliefs too.
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Nur Burcu
Fortunately, the most easily accessible stretch of walls is also the most interesting in terms of inscriptions and decoration. Start near the Mardin Kapısı close to the Deliller Han, a stone caravanserai now home to the Otel Büyük Kervansaray. Be sure not to miss Nur Burcu, the Yedi Kardeş Burcu (Tower of Seven Brothers), with two Seljuk lion bas-reliefs, which you can only see from outside the walls, and the Malikşah Burcu (Tower of Malik Şah, also called Ulu Badan).
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Malikşah Burcu
Fortunately, the most easily accessible stretch of walls is also the most interesting in terms of inscriptions and decoration. Start near the Mardin Kapısı close to the Deliller Han, a stone caravanserai now home to the Otel Büyük Kervansaray. Be sure not to miss Nur Burcu (Tower Nur), the Yedi Kardeş Burcu (Tower of Seven Brothers), with two Seljuk lion bas-reliefs, which you can only see from outside the walls, and the Malikşah Burcu, which has some bas-reliefs too.
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Keldani Kilisesi
The population of Diyarbakır once included many Christians, mainly Armenians and Chaldeans, but most of them were pushed out or perished during the troubles in the early 20th century or, more recently, with the Hezbollah.
Off Yenikapı Caddesi, this plain, brightly lit church is still used by 30 Christian families of the Syrian rite (in communion with the Roman Catholic church). The chaplain from the Meryem Ana Kilisesi holds a service here on the second Sunday of the month. It's fairly easy to find on your own. Walk past the detached minaret of the Nebi Camii, take the first left (Dicle Sokak) then the first right (Şeftali Sokak). The caretaker usually sits outside the…
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Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı Museum
The best way to see inside one of these old houses is to visit one of the museums inside the city walls. For example, the poet Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı (1910-56) was born in a two-storey black basalt house built in 1820, in a side street about 50m north of the Ulu Cami. It now houses the Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı Museum which contains some of the poet's personal effects and furnishings.
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Nebi Camii
At the main intersection of Gazi and İzzet Paşa/İnönü Caddesis, is Nebi Camii, featuring a detached minaret sporting a stunning combination of black-and-white stone. This alternating black-and-white banding is characteristic of Diyarbakır's mosques, many of which date from the time of the Akkoyunlu dynasty.
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Gazi Köşkü
About 1km south of the Mardin Kapısı, the Gazi Köşkü is a fine example of the sort of Diyarbakır house to which its wealthier citizens would retire in high summer. The house dates from the time of the 15th-century Akkoyunlu Turkoman dynasty and stands in a well-tended park. The caretaker will expect a tip for showing you around.
To get there, it's a pleasant, if rather isolated, downhill walk. Taxis charge TL15.
About 1km further south is the 11th-century On Gözlu Köprüsü (Ten-Eyed Bridge).
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Selim Amca'nın Sofra Salonu
This bright eatery outside the city walls is famous for its kaburga dolması (lamb stuffed with rice and almonds). Round it off with a devilish İrmik helvası (a gooey dessert). The saç kavurma (braised lamb) is also excellent.
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Küçe Başı Et Lokantası
This outfit has a wide-ranging menu and original setting (the room at the back is designed like a rustic barn). Try innovative dishes like tavuk tava (deep-fried chicken meat in a flat-bottomed pan).
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On Gözlu Köprüsü
Ascend the walls of the İç Kale (fortress or keep) to enjoy the fine views of the Tigris, flanked by a patchwork of market gardens, as it meanders 2km to 3km south to flow under the 11th-century On Gözlu Köprüsü.
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Şafak Kahvaltı & Yemek Salonu
Nosh on freshly prepared meat dishes, hearty casseroles and stuffed vegetables in this brisk Diyarbakır institution. It's a good place to partake in a restorative morning breakfast with still-warm flatbread, luscious kaymak (clotted cream) and gooey honey. It also does superb crisp wood-fired pide and is open around the clock if you arrive on a late bus.
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Safa Camii
Persian in style, the Safa Camii has a highly decorated minaret with blue tiles incorporated in its design.
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Behram Paşa Camii
The Behram Paşa Camii, in a residential area deep in the maze of narrow streets, is Diyarbakır's largest mosque. More Persian in style, the Safa Camii has a highly decorated minaret with blue tiles incorporated in its design.
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Şeyh Mutahhar Camii
The Şeyh Mutahhar Camii is famous for its minaret, but its engineering is even more interesting - the tower stands on four slender pillars about 2m high, earning it the name Dört Ayaklı Minare (Four-Legged Minaret).
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Dört Ayaklı Minare
The Şeyh Mutahhar Camii (1512) is also famous for its minaret, but its engineering is even more interesting - the tower stands on four slender pillars about 2m high, earning it the name Dört Ayaklı Minare.
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Kebapçı Hacı Halid
Tasty kebaps and ready-made meals served in bright surroundings. Look for the black-and-white pictures of old Diyarbakır on the 1st floor. It's in a small pedestrianised side street off Gazi Caddesi.
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Archaeology Museum
Diyarbakır's original Archaeology Museum was closed at the time of writing, and scheduled to reopen in 2013 in a new location inside the İç Kale. Ask at the Diyarbakır tourist office for an update.
Before the move, the well-presented collection included finds from the Neolithic site of Çayönü (7500–6500 BC), 65km north of Diyarbakır. Also showcased was a decent Urartian collection and relics from the Karakoyunlu and Akkoyunlu, powerful tribal dynasties that ruled much of eastern Anatolia and Iran between 1378 and 1502.
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Şanlıurfa Kebap ve Lahmacun Evi
Ease a belt hole at this sleek venture and feast on belly-filling kebaps or well-prepared pide at puny prices.
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Şeyhmus Tatlıcısı
Keep up your strength with a delectable baklava or a sticky kadayıf (dough soaked in syrup).
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Aslan Yemek Salonu
An excellent-value stomach-filler, with a wide selection of meat dishes.
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Ulu Camii
Diyarbakır's most impressive mosque is the Ulu Camii, built in 1091 by Malik Şah, an early Seljuk sultan. Incorporating elements from an earlier Byzantine church on the site, it was extensively restored in 1155 after a fire. It's rectangular in plan – Arab style, rather than Ottoman. The entrance portal, adorned with two medallions figuring a lion and a bull, leads to a huge courtyard. This is the most elegant section of the building, with two-storey arcades, two cone-shaped şadırvans (ritual ablutions fountains), elaborate pillars, and friezes featuring fruits and vegetables. At the time of writing, the Ulu Cami was undergoing additional restoration to resurrect…
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Surpaǧab Kilisesi
This Armenian church has recently been reopened after a wonderful restoration. Press the doorbell and someone will usually appear from within or from the surrounding neighbourhood to provide access. The church is across the lane from the Esma Ocak Evi.
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Sufi Sarcophagi
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