Church sights in Turkey
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Patriarchal Church of St George
Dating from 1836, this church is part of the Greek Patriarchate, a compound of buildings nestled behind the historic sea walls fronting the Golden Horn. Inside are artefacts including Byzantine mosaics, religious relics and a wood-and-inlay patriarchal throne. The most eye-catching feature is an ornately carved wooden iconostasis (screen of icons) that was restored and lavishly gilded in 1994.
The patriarchal throne is in the middle of the nave. Made of walnut inlaid with ivory, mother-of-pearl and coloured wood, it is thought to date from the last years of Byzantium.
Other treasures include the 11th-century mosaic icon that is on the south wall to the right of the…
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Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars
These days we're accustomed to kit homes and assemble-yourself furniture from Ikea, but back in 1871, when this Gothic Revival–style church was constructed from cast-iron pieces shipped down the Danube and across the Black Sea from Vienna on 100 barges, the idea was extremely novel.
The building's interior features screens, a balcony and columns all cast from iron; it is extremely beautiful, with the gilded iron glinting in the hazy light that filters in through stained-glass windows.
The congregation are members of the Bulgarian Orthodox Exarchate (Bulgarian Orthodox Church), which broke away from the Greek Ecumenical Orthodox Patriarchate in 1872. This is the…
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Church of St Mary of the Mongols
Consecrated in the 13th century and saved from conversion into a mosque by the personal decree of Mehmet the Conqueror, this is the only church in İstanbul to remain in Greek hands ever since Byzantine times. It was named after Princess Maria Paleologina, an illegitimate daughter of Emperor Michael VIII Paleologos.
Maria was sent from Byzantium to marry Hulagu, the Great Khan of the Mongols, in 1265. By the time she arrived in his kingdom he had died (we guess it was a very long trip), so she was forced to marry his son Abagu instead. On Abagu's death she returned to Byzantium and retired to a convent attached to this church.
The church is usually open on weekends. If the…
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Meryem Ana Kilisesi
Still used by Orthodox Syrian Christians, this church is beautifully maintained, although only about seven families still attend services. Local kids will show you the way.
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Keldani Kilisesi
The population of Diyarbakır once included many Christians, mainly Armenians and Chaldeans, but most of them were pushed out or perished during the troubles in the early 20th century or, more recently, with the Hezbollah.
Off Yenikapı Caddesi, this plain, brightly lit church is still used by 30 Christian families of the Syrian rite (in communion with the Roman Catholic church). The chaplain from the Meryem Ana Kilisesi holds a service here on the second Sunday of the month. It's fairly easy to find on your own. Walk past the detached minaret of the Nebi Camii, take the first left (Dicle Sokak) then the first right (Şeftali Sokak). The caretaker usually sits outside the…
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Christ Church
The cornerstone of this Gothic-style Anglican church was laid in 1858 by Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, known as 'The Great Elchi' (elçi, meaning ambassador) because of his paramount influence in mid-19th-century Ottoman affairs. The largest of the city's Protestant churches, it was dedicated in 1868 as the Crimean Memorial Church and restored and renamed in the mid-1990s.
Inside, there is a painted rood screen by Scottish artist Mungo McCosh that depicts notable İstanbul residents (mainly expats). The church's chaplain and congregation are actively involved in refugee welfare within the city.
To visit, attend the Sunday service or SMS the chaplain to…
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Kendirli KiIisesi
Wedged between modern buildings and smack in the centre of town, this church was constructed by French priests with the help of Napoleon III in 1860. Seen from a distance, the building looks quite featureless, but a closer inspection reveals eye-catching black-and-white medallions.
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Aya İrini
Commissioned by Justinian in the 540s, this Byzantine church is almost exactly as old as its close neighbour, Aya Sofya. When Mehmet the Conqueror began building Topkapı, the building was within the grounds and was most fortunately retained. Used as an arsenal for centuries, it now functions as an atmospheric concert venue during the İstanbul International Music Festival.
The serenely beautiful interior and superb acoustics mean that tickets to events here are usually the most sought-after in town (they're also the only way to see the building's interior, as it is usually closed to the public). During the festival there is a temporary box office located outside the…
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El Nazar Kilise
Carved from a ubiquitous cone-like rock formation, the 10th-century El Nazar Kilise has been restored, although its frescoes are not in the best condition. To find it, take the signposted trail off Müze Caddesi.
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Saklı Kilise
A yellow sign points the way off Müze Caddesi to the Saklı Kilise. When you reach the top of the hill, follow the track to the left and look out for steps leading downhill to the right.
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Orthodox Church of Ayios Haralambos
North of the castle, this imposing but redundant 19th-century church is used for temporary exhibitions of arts and crafts during the summer months.
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Üç Haçlı Kilise
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Taksiyarhis Church
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Surpaǧab Kilisesi
This Armenian church has recently been reopened after a wonderful restoration. Press the doorbell and someone will usually appear from within or from the surrounding neighbourhood to provide access. The church is across the lane from the Esma Ocak Evi.
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St John’s Church
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St George Church
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Sen Polikarp Church
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Kolonlu Kilise
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Haçlı Kilise
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Haghia Triada Monastery
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Surup Krikor Lusavoriç Kilise
The 19th-century Surup Krikor Lusavoriç Kilise is one of Anatolia's few remaining Armenian churches. Asiatic Review described it as 'tawdry' back in 1937, and the seldom-used building is certainly dilapidated. However, the domed interior is worth a look, mostly for the three gilded altars, containing paintings that replaced the originals last century. The painting on the left, with four fiery columns topped by flaming crosses, depicts the vision of St Gregory, who grew up in Kayseri. Located in a bad part of town, the church is tricky to find, so take a taxi (TL15 return from the tourist office, including waiting time). Ring the bell on the west side of the building to…
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Forty Martyrs Church
This church dates back to the 4th century, and was renamed in the 15th century to commemorate Cappadocian martyrs, now remembered in the fine carvings above the entrance. Services are held here each Sunday, and there's a wonderful inner courtyard punctuated with delicate birdsong. A caretaker is usually on hand to provide access to the church's compact, but beautiful, interior.
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