Anatolian restaurants in Turkey
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A
Sultan Garden Restaurant
This very leafy place, with a terrace overlooking the harbour and a functioning ancient cistern, is a perennial favourite offering excellent service and traditional and inventive Turkish dishes. Try the hünkar beğendı (spiced stewed lamb on aubergine puree; TL22).
reviewed
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B
Ejder Restaurant
Run by a welcoming husband-and-wife team (Mehmet does the meat, his wife the veg), this popular restaurant is a firm favourite with travellers for its delicious dishes (try chicken şiş or the sizzling Anatolian meat platter) and atmospheric setting under the arches of the Roman Aqueduct. While waiting for your meal, ask to see the 25 tomes of comments left by diners – everyone leaves a note, their signature and a small memento (a metro ticket from their hometown, a foreign coin etc – we even found a parking ticket and human hair!). Careful perusers will find an autograph from the late Steve Irwin.
reviewed
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C
Erzincanli Ali Baba Fasulyeci
Join the crowds of hungry locals at this long-time institution in the former kütüphanesi medrese (theological-school library) of the Süleymaniye Mosque. It’s been dishing up its signature kuru fasulye (Anatolian-style haricot beans cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) since 1924. Try some with side dishes of pilaf (rice) and pickles, and wash it all down with an ayran (yoghurt drink). Next-door Kanaat Fasulyeci is nearly as old and serves up more of the same.
reviewed
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D
Albura Kathisma
Albura Kathisma is a welcome addition to the otherwise mediocre array of restaurants along Akbıyık Caddesi. Its streetside tables are usually occupied by tourists sampling Turkish dishes such as hünkar beğendi (lamb or beef goulash served on a mound of rich aubergine puree) or mantı (Turkish ravioli topped with yoghurt, tomato and butter). The food is decent, with lots of vegetarian options.
reviewed
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E
Haci Abdullah
Just contemplating the sensational imam bayildi (‘the imam fainted’) at Hacı Abdullah’s makes our tastebuds go into overdrive. This İstanbul institution (it was established in 1888) is one of the best lokantas in the city and is one of the essential gastronomic stops you should make when in town. You’ll find all the traditional favourites, as well as a wide selection of desserts, including home-bottled fruit compote and a delicious künefe (shredded wheat pastry with pistachios, honey and sugar). The elegant surrounds feature bottle upon bottle of pickled vegetables and comfortable banquette seating. No alcohol is served.
reviewed
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F
Güney Restaurant
You’ll be lucky if you can fight your way through the crowds of hungry locals to claim a lunchtime table at this bustling eatery directly opposite Galata Tower. Friendly waiters will set you up with a basket of fresh bread and point you towards the array of meze and hot dishes on offer.
reviewed
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G
Sema Hanımın Yeri
In this rustic, wood-panelled restaurant, the welcoming Madame Sema serves home-cooked food such as içli köfte (meatballs stuffed with spices and nuts). Watch gözleme being made while trying three dishes for TL4.
reviewed
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Subaşı Lokantası
This place first opened its doors in 1959 and it’s been feeding a constant stream of the Grand Bazaar’s shopkeepers and customers ever since. Choose from the spread of good-quality hot food in the kitchen on the right as you enter and then grab a seat at a table on one of the two floors. Don’t let the waiters cajole you into ordering an expensive mixed plate (they have a tendency to do this to unsuspecting tourists, who then end up with hefty bills); instead check out the price list at the door and order by the portion (opt for one plus rice). You’ll find it north of the Nuruosmaniye gate.
reviewed
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H
Bab-İ Hayat
It took seven months for a team headed by one of the conservation architects from Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) to restore and decorate this vaulted space over the eastern entrance to the Spice Bazaar. Hand-painted ceilings and tiled window frames provide an atmospheric setting in which to sample decent kebaps and adequate pides and hazır yemek dishes. The ultra-friendly service stands in stark contrast to that at neighbouring Pandeli (which we’ve elected not to review), and you can even get a beer if you ask discreetly. Enter through the Serhadoğlu fast-food shop.
reviewed
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I
Karaköy Lokantasi
Many travellers will have heard of the famous Pandeli restaurant in the Spice Bazaar, which is known for its gorgeous tiled interior, high prices and – alas – uninspiring food. This family-run lokanta across the Galata Bridge in Karaköy has an attractive tiled interior that references Pandeli’s, but there the similarity ends. The food here is tasty and inexpensive, and the service is both friendly and efficient. The place functions as a lokanta during the day, but at night it morphs into a meyhane, with slightly higher prices.
reviewed
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Canim Ciğerim Ilhan Usta
The name means ‘my soul, my liver’, and this small place behind the Ali Hoca Türbesi specialises in grilled liver served with herbs, ezme (spicy tomato sauce) and grilled vegetables. If you can’t bring yourself to eat offal, fear not – you can substitute the liver with lamb if you so choose. Locals rate this place highly and no wonder, as this is fabulous, cheap food served in a really friendly atmosphere. No alcohol, but ayran is the perfect accompaniment.
reviewed
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K
Kantın
Flying the flag for the international Slow Food philosophy is Şemsa Denizsel’s chic eatery, Kantin. The menu changes daily according to the availability of fresh produce and is chalked up on blackboards – ask a waiter to translate if necessary. Nişantaşı’s ladies who lunch flock here to grab a flower-adorned table and enjoy the delicious and attractively presented food (the fish dishes are particularly tasty). The basement produce shop sells pre-prepared food to go, which is handy for self-caterers.
reviewed
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Fasulı Lokantası
There are two types of fasulye (bean dishes) served in Turkey: Anatolian-style Erzincan beans cooked in a spicy tomato sauce, and Black Sea–style beans cooked in a red gravy full of butter and meat. This lokanta next to the nargileh joints in Tophane serves its beans Black Sea–style, and they are truly delicious. You can try other Black Sea specialities here, too, including mihlama – a type of Turkish fondue made with corn, butter and cheese (TL6).
reviewed
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L
Ehlikeyf
Competing with nearby Şömine in the sophistication stakes, and suffering from the same flaws, Ehlikeyf occupies a sleek dining room with a wavy ceiling. Dishes such as the fabulous Ehlikeyf kebap (steak served on slivered fried potatoes, garlic yoghurt and a demi-glace sauce; TL19) arrive on glass plates; a gloved waiter wielding a carving knife accompanies the testi kebap. The large, well-spaced tables with leather chairs are comfortable for spending an evening, but the bill at the end of it will be as ambitious as the presentation.
reviewed
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M
Hünkar
After a morning spent abusing your credit card in nearby shops, you’ll be ready to claim a table at this upmarket lokanta and enjoy a relaxed lunch. The chefs take enormous pride in cooking and presenting traditional foods supremely well –everything is delicious. The restaurant’s signature dish is a wonderfully smoky and creamy version of hünkar beğendi, but there are at least 30 dishes on offer each day, so there truly is something to suit every palate.
reviewed
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Konyali Lokantasi
The bustle of the Eminönü docks is replicated inside this popular lokanta every lunchtime, when crowds of shoppers, workers and commuters pop in here to choose from the huge range of soups, böreks, kebaps and stews on offer. This isn’t a place where lingering over one’s meal is encouraged (it’s far too busy for that), but you can move on to the next-door pastanesi for a glass of tea and a delicious pastry if you so choose.
reviewed
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O
Flamm
A bastion of the hip Asmalımescit scene, Flamm serves a mixture of Turkish, French and Italian dishes. Pasta, risotto and grills feature on the menu. The interior dining space features exposed brick walls and subtle lighting, and the outdoor tables are perfectly positioned for those who want to watch the Sofyali Sokak promenade as they dine. There are plenty of nearby options for pre- and post-dinner drinks.
reviewed
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P
Ece Aksoy
The cool jazz on the soundtrack suits the warm-toned casual interior of this modern meyhane in trendy Tepebaşı. The lady chef/host here is a true believer in the superiority of local and organic produce, and uses this to make her flavoursome dishes. This is food like Turkish mothers make – it pleases both the heart and the belly. Don’t miss the mezes – they’re sensational.
reviewed
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Q
Niyazibey
Niyazibey specialises in perde pilavı, a dish that it describes as hen and rooster meat (symbolising the bride and groom) cooked with rice (for blessing) and almonds (for children) and encased in pastry sheets (symbolising the home). It also serves pides and kebaps. There’s another branch in Kadıköy – neither sell alcohol.
reviewed
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R
Medi Şark Sofrasi
Another excellent kebapcı off İstiklal, Medi specialises in meat dishes from the southeastern region of Turkey, which are served with the house speciality of babam ekmek (‘my father’s bread’). It’s known for its Adana and beyti kebaps, which are perfectly accompanied by a glass of ayran (no alcohol is served). Seating is Anatolian style.
reviewed
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Tamara Restaurant & Cafe
Located on one of Sultanahmet’s most interesting shopping strips, Tamara serves good-quality kebaps, lokanta dishes and pides. Appearing for the prosecution: the cavernous and somewhat soulless interior. For the defence: good prices and attractively presented food. It’s better for lunch than dinner.
reviewed
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T
Komşu
Powerbrokers, professionals and cashed-up local residents fill the indoor dining space and pleasant terrace of this well-regarded kebap restaurant on most nights of the week. The meat is top quality – try the meltingly tender küşleme kebap, which is made with lamb fillet.
reviewed
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U
Helvetia Lokanta
This hip lokanta is popular with locals (particularly of the vegetarian variety), who pop in here for fresh, tasty and cheap-as-chips soups, salads and bean dishes. Start with a yoghurt or tomato soup and follow up with your choice from the daily salads spread.
reviewed
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V
Tuana
Entered from the lane leading from the PTT to Sivas Caddesi, the smart Tuana offers a roll-call of classics such as kebaps and Kayseri mantı. When it's quiet, the ocean of red tables and chairs adorned with golden ribbons have the air of an out-of-season seaside resort, but it's easy to distract yourself with the views of the citadel and Erciyes Dağı.
reviewed
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W
Sofra Restaurant
In a line of restaurants catering to the tour groups visiting the nearby pottery shops, Sofra has a wide-ranging meze menu, pottery dishes and a small terrace.
reviewed
