Restaurants in Turkey
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Aşşk Kahve
The city's glamour set loves this garden cafe to bits, and its weekend brunches are an institution. Go early to snaffle a table by the water and don't forget to have a Botox shot before you go – that way you'll fit in nicely. It's accessed via the stairs behind the Macrocenter.
reviewed
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Galata House
This would have to be one of the most eccentric restaurants in town. Run by the charming husband-and-wife team of Nadire and Mete Göktuğ, it is housed in the Old British Jail, just down from Galata Tower. Nadire uses recipes handed down from her Georgian mother to concoct simple comfort food and also plays the piano and sings for guests.
The jail functioned from 1904 to 1919, and has been sympathetically but comfortably restored by Mete, who is one of İstanbul's most prominent heritage architects.
reviewed
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Buhara Restaurant & Ocakbaşi
If you’re craving a kebab, this unassuming eatery might be the solution. Management can be gruff and the servings are on the small side, but the quality of the meat is good. You can order an Efes to accompany your meal.
reviewed
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Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta
This is one of the most famous eateries in the city, and to be frank, we’re at a total loss to understand why. The ever-present queues of locals obviously adore its rubbery ızgara köfte (grilled meatballs) served with bread, white beans, salad and pickled chillies, but we have always been underwhelmed. Why not try it yourself, though? The place has been serving since 1920 and is certainly clean, cheap and cheerful.
reviewed
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Ejder Restaurant
Roughly opposite the Byzantine aqueduct, this tiny but time-tested local favourite serves delicious Turkish dishes – if you can't decide, take the whole sizzling Anatolian meat platter. The kind owners, Mehmet and his wife Rahime, are proud to show off the guest books and memorabilia, which include photos from the Clinton family's visit and a touching guest entry from the late, great Steve Irwin.
reviewed
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Kebab House Mehmet & Alibaba
Covered in testimonials from contented customers, this friendly and informal joint dishes out tasty Turkish fare. The smiley owners are eager to please and are happy to educate the uninitiated palate with a variety of local treats such as Adana kebap. Complimentary coffee and yoghurt sides are the norm.
reviewed
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Sultan Garden Restaurant
This very leafy place, with a terrace overlooking the harbour and a functioning ancient cistern, is a perennial favourite offering excellent service and both traditional and more inventive Turkish dishes. Try the Sultan's Delight (TL24), spiced stewed lamb on aubergine puree.
reviewed
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Khorasani
When considering ocakbaşıs, the word stylish doesn’t often come to mind. Succulent, yes. Smoky, sometimes. But stylish? Hmm. The owners of this new place off Divan Yolu are aiming to challenge preconceptions with Khorasani, and it seems to be working for their predominantly tourist clientele. Here, the meat plays second fiddle to the surrounds, which are extremely attractive. The chef hails from Antakya, and the kebap style is that of southeastern Anatolia, meaning that a few spicy dishes adorn the menu. A welcome addition to the Sultanahmet eating scene.
reviewed
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Kuru Fasülyeci Erzincanlı Ali Baba
Join the crowds of hungry locals at this long-time institution located opposite the Süleymaniye Mosque. It's been dishing up its signature kuru fasulye (Anatolian-style white beans cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) since 1924 and it's delicious when accompanied by pilaf (rice) and pickles. Next-door Kanaat Fasülyeci is nearly as old and serves up more of the same. No alcohol.
reviewed
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Ney Restaurant
Tucked away off the street up some steps is this tiny but delightful restaurant set in a 250-year-old Greek house. Decorated with seashells and wind chimes, it's run by the charming Birgül, owner and cook, who offers delicious home cooking at pleasing prices. Try the mantı böreğı (Turkish ravioli).
reviewed
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Ali Kaya Restaurant
Perched on a hill, yhis simple licensed restaurant is perfect for sunset dining, when you can recharge with meze after the steep climb while taking in views of the town and the tombs. Taxis will ferry you up for TL8.
reviewed
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Meğri Restaurant
In a beautiful old stone house decorated with traditional artefacts, this place serves a varied menu in a nice atmosphere. With Turkish, Italian and French food all on offer, it might suit bickering couples who can't agree on where to go.
reviewed
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Albura Kathisma
Albura Kathisma is a welcome addition to the otherwise mediocre array of restaurants along Akbıyık Caddesi. Its streetside tables are usually occupied by tourists sampling Turkish dishes such as hünkar beğendi (lamb or beef goulash served on a mound of rich aubergine puree) or mantı (Turkish ravioli topped with yoghurt, tomato and butter). The food is decent, with lots of vegetarian options.
reviewed
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Pierre Loti Café
After visiting the Eyüp Sultan Mosque, many visitors head north up the hill to the Pierre Loti Café, where the famous French novelist is said to have come for inspiration. Loti loved İstanbul, its decadent grandeur and the late-medieval customs of a society in decline. When he sat in this cafe, under a shady grapevine sipping tea, he saw a Golden Horn busy with caïques (long, thin rowboats), schooners and a few steam vessels. The water in the Golden Horn was still clean enough to swim in and the vicinity of the cafe was given over to pasture. The cafe that today bears his name offers views similar to the ones he must have enjoyed. It’s in a warren of streets on a…
reviewed
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Moreish
Chefs Cokşun Uysal and Esra Muslu trained in Melbourne and London before returning to İstanbul and opening this intimate restaurant. The sophisticated interior by Milagard Architecture perfectly complements the ambitious menu, which comes complete with amuse-bouche and splendid home-baked bread rolls. An initial perusal of the dishes on offer may make you fear that there is too much happening on each plate, but fear not – everything works wonderfully. Highlights of our last meal included a main course of roasted lamb and braised lamb shank with red cabbage, tahini humus and a cognac-plum puree followed by a dessert of flourless chocolate mousse cake served with…
reviewed
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Hamdi Restaurant
Hamdi Arpacı arrived in İstanbul in the 1960s and almost immediately established a street stand near the Spice Bazaar where he grilled and sold tasty kebaps made according to recipes from his hometown Urfa, in Turkey's southeast. His kebaps became so popular with locals that he soon acquired this nearby building, which has phenomenal views from its top-floor terrace.
A meal here offers views of the Old City, Golden Horn and Galata, as well as tasty food and a bustling atmosphere. Try the yoğurtlu şakşuka (yoghurt meze with fried eggplant, peppers and potato), the içli köfte (meatballs rolled in bulgur) and the lahmacun (thin, meat-topped pizza) followed by any of…
reviewed
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A'laturca
Style meets substance at this elegant eatery. The menu here has been thoughtfully and creatively designed and the food is exceptionally well prepared. We enjoyed the classic meze selection and were very impressed by the succulent A'laturca-style lamb şiş kebap served on a perfectly cooked ratatouille. Other visits have introduced us to the delights of the chicken şiş kebap and the wickedly rich Kayseri mantısı (ravioli with garlic yoghurt and spices).
The restaurant has a number of eating areas, the most popular of which are the upstairs terrace and the quirky downstairs garden with its brightly coloured beanbag seating. Highly recommended.
reviewed
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Hacı Abdullah
This İstanbul institution (it was established in 1888) serves a good range of mezes and hazır yemek (ready-made food). There's no alcohol, but the range of delicious desserts well and truly compensates. Come for lunch rather than dinner.
reviewed
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Erzurum Evleri
This stunning old wooden house, signposted from Cumhuriyet Caddesi (opposite Caferiye Camii), is filled with Ottoman paraphernalia. Dishes include soup, börek (filled pastry) and tandır kebap (stew), served in private alcoves with cushions and low tables. Overlooking the courtyard, Şahane offers çay, Turkish coffee and, from 7pm, live traditional music. Round the back, Daşhane has nargiles (water pipes) and bean-bags.
reviewed
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Güzelyurt Restorant
Erzurum's smartest restaurant, in business since 1928, is adorably anachronistic, with shrouded windows, thick carpets and bow-tied waiters creating old-fashioned charm. It's licensed, and a good place to spill money on a great meal. The mezes (TL0.50-7.50) are the headliner, with about 20 different specialties, but the menu also features a smattering of mains, including 'Bof Straganof' (no typo).
reviewed
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Kafe Ara
This casual cafe is named after its owner, legendary local photographer Ara Güler. It occupies a converted garage with tables and chairs spilling out into a wide laneway opposite the Galatasaray Lycée and serves an array of well-priced salads, sandwiches and Turkish staples such as köfte and sigara böreği (pastries filled with cheese and potato). No alcohol.
reviewed
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Orient Restaurant
Juicy steaks and a stack of flavoursome pasta dishes head up the impressive, meaty menu which romps from traditional Turkish to continental cuisine with ease. The outside seating, among blooming roses, and service, is delightful.
reviewed
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Şömine Cafe & Restaurant
Stylish Şömine is big on pristine napery and fancy service. We like the tasty kiremits (meat or vegetable dishes baked on a tile in a traditional oven) but the kebaps are succulent as well.
reviewed
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Changa
A number of eateries in İstanbul attempt fusion cuisine, but few do it well; this sophisticated restaurant is one that does. Most diners opt for the 10-course tasting menu (TL135 per person, minimum two people), but you can also order à la carte. In summer, the action moves to the glamorous MüzedeChanga in the Sakıp Sabancı Museum on the Bosphorus.
reviewed
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Nazar Börek
Head here for supremely tasty traditional Turkish staples served up by friendly Rafik and his team. Nazar remains our long-standing favourite for its hearty plates of gözleme (savoury pancakes) and sosyete böregi (stuffed spiral pastries served with yoghurt and tomato sauce) while the convivial atmosphere encourages diners to linger long after their meal has finished.
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