Things to do in Kalkan
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Merkez Cafe
This modest-looking and very central (the meaning of its name) cafe makes ethereal pastries and cakes, including a gorgeous chocolate baklava (TL6) and coconut and almond macaroons. More substantial fare includes pizzas (TL9 to TL15) and pasta.
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Belgin's Kitchen
A 150-year-old former olive oil–pressing workshop, Belgin's serves traditional Turkish food at very palatable prices. The speciality is mantı (TL16) and çiğ börek (börek stuffed with spicy ground beef and fried). Despite the preponderance of faux Ottoman artefacts, the roof terrace is very pleasant.
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Ottoman House
Carpet and cushion-clad á l'Ottoman, this traditional-style restaurant serves excellent Turkish classics such as testi kebap (Cappadocean pots containing beef or chicken, broken at your table). The attractive roof terrace has good views.
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Paprika Bistrot & Terrace Restaurant
Lying opposite the municipal car park and specialising in meat dishes, which you can eat on its terraces. Try the sumptuous speciality, incik - roasted shank of lamb served with a wine and onion sauce - or the famous hot chocolate fondant.
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Zeki's Restaurant
Small but chicly decked out right down to the fresh oleander flowers and crisp linen tablecloths, Zeki's does excellent French-Turkish cuisine. It claims to serve 'the best steaks in Kalkan' and its tarte au chocolat is much sought-after.
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Korsan Fish Terrace
On the roof of Patara Stone House, this restaurant is arguably the finest seafood experience in Kalkan. Its homemade lemonade (TL3.50) is legendary and there's live jazz on Tuesday from 8.30pm. Other outlets in the mini Korsan empire, run by Turkish-British couple Uluç and Claire, include Korsan Meze, opposite the town beach, one of the oldest (1979) and most consistent restaurants serving modern Turkish and international cuisine in Kalkan; and Korsan Kebap, a simpler place that's ideal for lunch on a terrace by the harbour with upscale kebaps and pide.
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Korsan Marina
Neighbouring the town beach is one of the oldest (1979) and most consistent restaurants in Kalkan. Its mezes are a speciality (try the mouthwatering mücver - courgette fritters), as is the Korsan paella.
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Aubergine
With tables right on the marina, as well as cosy seats inside, this restaurant is a magnet for its location alone. But add to that specialities like its slow-roasted wild boar (TL32) and swordfish fillet served in a creamy vegetable sauce (TL31) and you have a winner.
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Korsan Kebap
With tables on a terrace by the harbour, it does delicious, upmarket kebaps and pide. Try the speciality, the dürüm kebap made with spicy tender steak.
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Coast
This new, modern and minimalist place offers superb Turkish dishes with a European twist. Try the speciality, the steak served flaming on a block of hot marble.
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Moonlight Bar
Just down from the post office, Kalkan's oldest bar is still its most 'happening', though a good percentage of people sitting at the tables outside – or on the small dance floor inside – are visitors.
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Ali Baba
With its generous opening hours and rock-bottom (for Kalkan) prices, this is everybody's favourite local cheapie. It's a great place for breakfast and also does some decent veggie dishes.
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Cafe Del Mar
Tiny but adorable place that claims to offer over 70 varieties of coffee (TL4 to TL7) as well as milkshakes and smoothies (from TL5).
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Café Yalı Bar
Positioned as it is on a three-road junction, this is a popular place for people-watching.
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Zeytinlik
Another winning British-Turkish joint venture, the rooftop 'Olive Garden' serves some of the most adventurous Turkish food in town – try the fish dolmas, the samosa-like minced lamb in filo pastry triangles or any of the three vegetarian options. It's a popular place so make sure you book a front-row seat with a view.
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Yalı Cafe Bar
Positioned as it is on a three-road junction, this is a popular place for meeting, greeting and drinking in public.
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Trio
Perennial favourite of expat Brits (just try to get in here on New Year's Eve), this waterfront restaurant and bar serves excellent fish dishes (eg grouper with samphire) but not exclusively. It's a great place for a mid-afternoon cocktail while sprawled on one of the comfy wicker lounges.
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Öz Adana
Just opposite the first roundabout and the turning to Kalamar, the 'Original Adana' is just that and serves the best kebaps, pide and lahmacun (Turkish 'pizza') in town.
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Maya
A very homely eatery run by Sevilay, who keeps her menu small but perfectly chosen. There are just five tables, all on a roof terrace with great views.
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Marina Restaurant
Just below the landmark Pirat Hotel, our favourite restaurant by the water does excellent (if pricey) grills and fish dishes but seems to excel at pide in all its infinite variety. Choose from 15 meze made daily.
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Kalamaki
A modern venue with a very stylish minimalist pub on the ground floor and restaurant above offers superb Turkish dishes with a European twist. Try the scrumptious lamb with plums (TL27) or the generous vegetarian casserole. Host Tayfun keeps it all hanging together.
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Just Silver
Just about the most famous shop in Kalkan has gals and dolls lining up for ear, nose, neck, finger and toe baubles.
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Guru's Place
Affable Hüseyin and his family, who have been in the area for four centuries, have been running this restaurant by the sea for 20 years. Food is authentic and fresh, coming from their own garden. The menu is often limited to daily specials. Its a bit out of town on the road to Kaş, so a free transfer service is provided.
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Foto's Pizza
Listing a pizza joint in a town of such culinary repute seems sacrilege, but (a) Foto's has always been more pide than pizza for us and (b) the views from the terrace make it hard to overlook. It's just past the taxi rank on the way down the steep incline that locals call Heart Attack Hill.
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Fener Cafe
The closest thing Kalkan has to a tea garden, the 'Lighthouse' (no prizes for guessing its location) is as popular with locals as it is with expats and visitors.
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