Palace sights in Istanbul
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Topkapi Palace
This opulent palace is the subject of more colourful stories than most of the world’s museums put together. It was the home of Selim the Sot, who drowned in the bath after drinking too much champagne; İbrahim the Crazy, who lost his reason after being locked up for four years in the infamous palace kafes; and Roxelana, beautiful and malevolent consort of Süleyman the Magnificent. No wonder it’s been the subject of a popular feature film (Jules Dassin’s 1963 Topkapı ), an opera (Mozart’s The Abduction from the Seraglio ) and a blockbuster social history (John Freely’s wonderful Inside the Seraglio ). There’s loads to see, so make sure you dedicate at least hal…
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Topkapı Harem
These were the imperial family quarters, and every detail of Harem life was governed by tradition, obligation and ceremony. The word harem literally means 'private'.
Every traditional Muslim household had two distinct parts: the selamlık (greeting room) where the master greeted friends, business associates and tradespeople; and the harem (private apartments), reserved for himself and his family.
If you decide to tour the Harem at Topkapı Palace – and we highly recommend that you do – you’ll need to buy a dedicated ticket from the ticket office outside the Harem’s entrance. The fact that there is an extra entry charge means that many stingy tour companies neglect to bring …
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Yildiz Park
Sultan Abdül Hamit II (r 1876–1909) didn’t allow himself to be upstaged by his predecessors. He built his own fancy palace by adding considerably to the structures built by earlier sultans in Yıldız Park, continuing the Ottoman tradition of palace pavilions that had been employed so wonderfully at Topkapı. It was to be the last sultan’s palace built in İstanbul. The park began life as the imperial reserve for the Çırağan Sarayı, but when Abdül Hamit built Yıldız Şale, largest of the park’s surviving structures, the park then served that palace and was planted with rare and exotic trees, shrubs and flowers. It also gained carefully tended paths and superior electric lighti…
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Dolmabahçe Selamlik
The tour starts by passing through opulent salons and halls to a room with glass cabinets displaying gaudy crystal, gold and silver tea sets. After visiting the palace mosque and ablutions room, things really start to get extravagant at the staircase, with a French crystal balustrade made by Baccarat.
Here the Bohemian chandelier weighs close to 1000kg. The hallway at the top of the stairs has two Russian bearskins, a 2000kg chandelier and candelabras standing about 3m tall. Off this is a reception hall featuring ornate gilt ceiling and walls. These and the enormous carpet from Iran must have impressed the official visitors who came here to be received by the sultan. If y…
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E
Çirağan Palace
Not satisfied with the architectural exertions of his predecessor at Dolmabahçe, Sultan Abdül Aziz (r 1861–76) built his own grand residence at Çırağan, on the Bosphorus shore only 1.5km away from Dolmabahçe. The architect was Nikoğos Balyan, one of the designers of Dolmabahçe, and here he created an interesting building melding European neoclassical with Ottoman and Moorish styles. Abdül Aziz’s extravagance may have been one of the reasons why he was deposed in 1876, to be replaced by his mentally unstable and alcoholic nephew, Murat. Abdül Aziz later died in Çırağan under mysterious circumstances, probably suicide. Murat was in turn swiftly deposed by Abdül Hamit II, wh…
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Tekfur Sarayi
The Byzantine palaces that once crowded Sultanahmet Square are all gone, so is the great Palace of Blachernae, which was also in this neighbourhood. Only the Tekfur Sarayı remains. Though the building is only a shell these days, it is remarkably preserved considering its great age.
Built in the late 13th or early 14th century and located close to the end of Theodosius' wall, it was a large three-storeyed palace that may have been an annex of the Palace of Blachernae. Later uses were not so regal: after the Conquest it functioned in turn as a menagerie for exotic wild animals, a brothel and a poorhouse for destitute Jews. To see it, wander into the sportsground next door.…
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Dolmabahçe Harem-Cariyeler
This pink building houses the harem and concubines' quarters, which are not as lavish as the Selamlık but still worth touring. Though relatively cramped and plain by Dolmabahçe standards (which isn't saying much), they have some bizarre features, including the huge ornate bed used by Sultan Abdül Aziz, who was known by his subjects as Güresçi (the Wrestler) due to his great size, considerable strength and predilection for the sport.
The tour passes through a post-circumcision resting hall, a couple of hamams and the Blue Hall, the sultan's reception hall in the harem. Note the hand-painted ceilings throughout and the amazing wallpaper in Atatürk's bedroom.
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Mimar Sinan Çarşisi
Built by Nurbanu Sultan, mother of Sultan Murat III, between 1574 and 1583, this hamam is thought to have been the first designed by Sinan. Having fallen into ruins, part of it was torn down to accommodate construction of the avenue; the remaining half was restored in 1966 and is now cramped and crowded with shops.
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Beylerbeyi Palace
Across from the Bosphorus Bridge, the imposing Beylerbeyi Palace was designed by Sarkis Balyan. Look for the palace’s whimsical marble bathing pavilions on the shore; one was for men, the other for the women of the harem.
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