Gülhane Parki

Gülhane Parkı was once the palace park of Topkapı. Now, crowds of locals come here at weekends to enjoy its shade, street food and the occasional live concert. The trees here are lovely and the views over the water impressive, but many of the fountains and other features added in recent times are blots on the landscape - the horrible concrete water feature near the main gate being the major offender.

At the far (north) end of the park, up the hill, there is a series of terraces with a tea garden, the Set Üstü Çay Bahçesi offering superb views of the Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara.

To the right of the south exit is a bulbous little kiosk built into the park wall. Known as the Alay Köşkü (Parade Kiosk), this is where the sultan would sit and watch the periodic parades of troops and trade guilds that commemorated great holidays and military victories.

Across the street and 100m northwest of Gülhane gate is an outrageously curvaceous rococo gate leading into the precincts of what was once the grand vizierate, or Ottoman prime ministry, known in the West as the Sublime Porte. Today the buildings beyond the gate hold various offices of the İstanbul provincial government (the Vilayeti).