Galata Bridge

Nothing is quite as evocative as walking across the Galata Bridge at sunset, when the Galata Tower is surrounded by shrieking seagulls and the mosques atop the seven hills of the city are thrown into relief against a soft red-pink sky. During the day, the bridge carries a constant flow of İstanbullus crossing to and from Beyoğlu and Eminönü, a handful or two of hopeful anglers trailing their lines into the waters below, and a constantly changing procession of street vendors hawking everything from fresh-baked simits to Rolex rip-offs. This is İstanbul at its most magical. Underneath the bridge, touristy restaurants and cafes serve drinks and food all day and night. Come here to inhale the evocative scent of apple tobacco wafting out of the nargileh cafes and to watch the passing parade of ferries zooming past. There’s even a shop selling fishing equipment for those who aspire to emulate the anglers up on the bridge. The present, quite ugly, bridge was built in 1992 to replace an iron structure dating from 1909 to 1912, which in turn had replaced two earlier structures. The iron bridge was famous for the ramshackle fish restaurants, teahouses and nargileh joints that occupied the dark recesses beneath its roadway, but it had a major flaw: it floated on pontoons that blocked the natural flow of water and kept the Golden Horn from flushing itself free of pollution. In the late 1980s the municipality started to draw up plans to replace it with a new bridge that would allow the water to flow. A fire expedited these plans in the early 1990s and the new bridge was built a short time afterwards. (The remains of the old, much-loved bridge were moved further up the Golden Horn near Hasköy.)