Askeri Müzesi

Lonely Planet review

For a rousing museum experience try to visit in the afternoon so that you can enjoy the concert given by the Mehter, the medieval Ottoman Military Band, between 15:00 and 16:00 daily. On the ground floor are displays of weapons, a 'martyrs' gallery ( şehit galerisi ) with artefacts from fallen Turkish soldiers of many wars, displays of Turkish military uniforms through the ages, and glass cases holding battle standards, both Turkish and captured.

These include Byzantine, Greek, British, Austro-Hungarian, Italian and Imperial Russian standards. Perhaps the most interesting of the exhibits are the imperial pavilions ( sayebanlar ). These luxurious cloth shelters, heavily worked with fine silver and gold thread, jewels, precious silks and elegant tracery, were the battle headquarters for sultans during the summer campaign season.

Also on show are a portion of the great chain that the Byzantines stretched across the mouth of the Golden Horn to keep out the sultan's ships during the battle for Constantinople in 1453; and a tapestry woven by Ottoman sailors (who must have had lots of time on their hands) showing the flags of all of the world's important maritime nations.

The upper floor has more imperial pavilions and a room devoted to Atatürk, who was, of course, a famous Ottoman general before he became founder and commander-in-chief of the republican army and first president of the Turkish Republic. This floor is where you really feel the spirit of the Ottoman Empire. It has exhibits of armour (including cavalry), uniforms, field furniture made out of weapons (eg chairs with rifles for legs), and a Türk-Alman Dostluk Köşesi (Turco-German Friendship Corner) with mementos of Turkish and German military collaboration before and during WWI.

Outside the museum, to the east of the building, you'll find cannons, including Gatling guns cast in Vienna, bearing the sultan's monogram. More of the Golden Horn's great chain is here as well.

Perhaps the best reason to visit this museum is to view the short concert by the Mehter. According to historians, the Mehter was the world's first true military band. Its purpose was not to make pretty music for dancing, but to precede the conquering Ottoman paşas (governor) into vanquished towns, impressing upon the defeated populace their new, subordinate status. Children in particular will love watching them march with their steady, measured pace, then turning all together to face the left side of the line of march, then the right side.

The easiest way to get to the museum is to walk up Cumhuriyet Caddesi from Taksim Square. This will take around 15 minutes.