Pera Museum

Lonely Planet review

The most beloved painting in the Turkish canon - Osman Hamdı Bey's The Tortoise Trainer - sold at auction in late 2005 for a massive US$3.5 million. Turks were worried that the painting might be lost to the nation, so there was rejoicing when this new, privately funded museum announced that it had been the successful bidder and that the painting would be the focal point of its wonderful Orientalist painting collection.

Acquired by Suna and İnan Kıraç over decades, this collection consists of more than 300 paintings with Turkish Orientalist themes. Its canvasses by Turkish and European artists provide fascinating glimpses into the Ottoman world from the 17th to the early 20th century. Sometimes these treatments are realistic, at other times they are highly romanticised - what's consistent is their focus on the rich costumes, fascinating domestic settings and varied individuals of the period. The museum has conceived a program of long-term thematic exhibitions to showcase these Orientalist paintings, and has been loaned important Orientalist works from the Sevgi and Erdoğan Gönül Collection to supplement its holdings. At the time of research a show titled 'Portraits of the Empire' had been hung on the third floor and it was a total joy to visit - we're hoping that future shows will be just as good.

The museum also has two permanent exhibits: a top-notch collection of Kütahya tiles and ceramics, and a somewhat esoteric collection of Anatolian weights and measures. Three further floors are devoted to temporary exhibitions of national and international artists. The Museum also organises monthly film events, with talks and panel discussions.