Baths Of Lady Hürrem

Lonely Planet review

Traditionally, every mosque had a hamam included in or around its complex of buildings. Aya Sofya was no exception and this elegant symmetrical building, designed by Sinan between 1556 and 1557, was built just across the road from the great mosque by Süleyman in the name of his wife Hürrem Sultan, known to history as Roxelana. The hamam was one of 32 Sinan designed and is widely thought be his best.

It operated until 1910 and now functions as a carpet shop run by the Ministry of Culture rather than a bath. Fortunately, the management of the carpet shop doesn't seem to mind if visitors wander through the building to admire the interior spaces rather than the rugs. At the time of research there were rumours around town that the lease on the building had been sold to a local entrepreneur and that he was planning to re-open the place as a tourist hamam. Designed as a 'double hamam' with identical baths for men and women, the centre wall dividing the two has now been breached by a small doorway. Both sides have separate entrances and the three traditional rooms: first the square camekan for disrobing (on the men's side, this has a pretty marble fountain and stained-glass windows); then the long soğukluk for washing; and finally the octagonal hararet for sweating and massage. The most impressive features are the domes, with their star-like apertures. Also of note are the four eyvan (niches) and the four semiprivate washing rooms in the hararet, as well as the göbektaşı (hot platform) in the men's bath, which is inlaid with coloured marble. In all, the place gives a good idea of how hamam s are set up - perfect for those not convinced that they want to bare all in one of the city's still-functioning establishments.