Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts

Lonely Planet review

İbrahim Paşa was Süleyman the Magnificent's close friend and brother-in-law. Captured by Turks as a child in Greece, he had been sold as a slave into the imperial household in İstanbul and worked as a page in Topkapı, where he became friendly with Süleyman, who was the same age. When his friend became sultan, İbrahim was made in turn chief falconer, chief of the royal bedchamber and grand vizier.

This palace was bestowed on him by Süleyman the year before he was given the hand of Süleyman's sister, Hadice, in marriage. Alas, the fairy tale was not to last for poor İbrahim. His wealth, power and influence on the monarch became so great that others wishing to influence the sultan became envious, chief among them Süleyman's powerful wife, Haseki Hürrem Sultan (Roxelana). After a rival accused İbrahim of disloyalty, Roxelana convinced her husband that İbrahim was a threat and Süleyman had him strangled in 1536.

The museum's exhibits date from the 8th and 9th centuries up to the 19th century. Highlights include the superb calligraphy exhibits, including writing sets, imperial edicts ( fermans )with monograms ( tuğras )and illuminated manuscripts. In the largest room (and last room on the 1st floor) have a look at the wooden inlaid Quran stands and chests from the 16th century, as well as the colourful Turkish miniatures. This room also has an extraordinary collection of enormous antique carpets - whatever you do, don't miss them.

The lower floor of the museum houses ethnographic exhibits.

Labels are in Turkish and English. The coffee shop in the courtyard of the museum, which also has tables on the terrace overlooking the Hippodrome, is a welcome refuge from the press of crowds and touts in the area.