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Pandora
Unreconstructed lefties and self-confessed postmodernists are equally at home in this excellent bookshop. Though most of the stock is in Turkish, there are a fair few titles in English, including novels, guidebooks, histories and art and politics texts. If you can't find what you're looking for on the ground floor, climb two floors up.
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Paşabahçe
Established in 1957, this local firm manufactures excellent glassware from its factory on the Bosphorus. Three floors of glassware, vases and decanters feature here and prices are very reasonable. Styles are both traditional and contemporary.
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Robinson Crusoe
There are few more pleasant fates than being marooned here for an hour or so. With its classy décor, good magazine selection and wide range of English-language novels and books about İstanbul, it's one of the best bookshops around. Staff speak English and know their books.
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Sahaflar Çarşısı
The Old Book Bazaar is great fun for browsing, but you'll find more new than old. It's just west of the Kapalı Çarşı (Grand Bazaar), wedged between Çadırcılar Caddesi and the Beyazıt Camii. The nearby flea market runs only rarely these days.
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Sali Pazari
On Tuesday and Friday there is a massive market in Kadıköy, on the Asian side: the Sali Pazari. The cheapest clothes in town are on sale here, so if you've been on the road for a while and your underwear needs replenishing, this is the place to do it! To get there, get off the ferry and take a taxi or bus - it's too far to walk.
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Şamdan
Located on one of Beyoğlu's main antique strips, this small shop stocks quality antique furniture, china and glassware, specialising in Ottoman and Art Deco pieces.
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Sedef Çalarkan
Here you'll find a fabulously funky range of T-shirts and leather bags decorated with images of sultans. We were particularly taken with the design featuring Murad III wearing a Bluetooth headset!
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Sema Paksoy
If your jewellery is more statement than investment, Sema Paksoy is your woman. Her chunky pieces crafted from antique silver and semiprecious stones are Ottoman-inspired and lovely. They're pricey but worth it.
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Semerkand Suzani
If you fancy the idea of swanning around at home wearing an old kaftan from Uzbekistan or a dowry shirt from Anatolia, this is where you can source them. There are caps, fabrics and lots of lovely pieces to choose from.
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Sofa
What a treasure-trove of a shop! As well as its eclectic range of prints, textiles, ceramics, calligraphy and Ottoman miniatures, Sofa sells contemporary Turkish art and books. The range of pricey jewellery made out of antique Ottoman coins and 24-carat gold is particularly alluring.
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Spice Bazaar
Need a herbal love potion or natural Turkish Viagra? This is the place to find them, although we wouldn't vouch for the efficacy of either! As well as spices ( baharat ) , nuts, honey in the comb and olive oil soaps, the bustling spice bazaar sells truckloads of figs ( incir ) , Turkish delight ( lokum ) and fruit pressed into sheets and dried ( pestil ).
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Vakko
İstanbul's most famous boutique department store stocks a quality range of clothing for men and women, fabrics, shoes, homewares and scarves made from Bursa silk. It even produces its own perfume and chocolate.
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Vakko İndirim
If you've checked out Vakko's style at one of the malls or in Teşvikiye but have concerns about the price tags, this remainder store may be for you. There's a good selection of quality women's and men's clothing, as well as shoes and accessories.
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Yargici
Whether they're aged 15 or 50, İstanbul's men and women love buying clothes, toiletries and accessories at Yargıcı. The clothes are affordable high street styles that are made in Turkey and the accessories are so good they're exported internationally.
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Yörük Collection
It's worth entering this shop just to see the building, which formerly housed an Ottoman library and has been beautifully restored. It sells rugs, silk, miniatures, textiles, ceramics and jewellery, as well as quirky hand-made glass light fittings. For a bit of fun, ask to go upstairs and check out 'Mike's Museum', which is full of a colourful jumble of rugs, pottery, costumes, tassels, jewellery and textiles.
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Ziya Aykaç
Established in 1910, Ziya Aykaç stocks antique watches, silk prayer rugs, silver jewellery and old porcelain. If you can't find something great to take home, you're just not looking hard enough.
