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Sofyalı 9
Tables here are hot property on a Friday or Saturday night, and no wonder. This gem of a place serves up some of the best meyhane food in all İstanbul, and does so in surroundings that are as welcoming as they are attractive. It's a bit like eating in a close friend's home, except here you're offered a large array of meze and a wealth of grills and fresh fried fish along with the bonhomie.
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Subaşi Lokantasi
This place first opened its doors in 1959 and it's been feeding a constant stream of the Grand Bazaar's shopkeepers and customers ever since. Choose from the spread of excellent hot food in the kitchen on the right as you enter and then grab a seat at a table. Don't let the waiters cajole you into ordering an expensive mixed plate; instead check out the price list at the door and order by the portion. You'll find it near the Nuruosmaniye gate.
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Sultanahmet Fish House
If you're the fishy type, traditionally there have been only three viable dining options in the Old City: heading down to Kumkapı, grabbing a fish sandwich on the dock at Emininönü or booking a table at the pricey Balıkçı Sabahattin. But now there's this casual restaurant in Cağaloğlu. What makes this joint distinctive are its prices, which are remarkably low for what's on offer. Wine is also well priced, and everything is squeaky clean. Wow.
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Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta
This is one of the most famous eateries in the city, and to be frank, we're at a total loss to understand why. The ever-present queues of locals obviously adore its rubbery köfte (meatballs) served with bread, beans, salad and pickled chillies, but we have always been underwhelmed. Why not try it yourself, though? The place is certainly clean, cheap and cheerful.
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Teras Restaurant
The chef at this posh hotel restaurant came up with an inspired idea when he devised his Turkish degustation menu. Six sampling courses of 'İstanbul cuisine' feature, and they are wonderfully complemented by an excellent (and affordable) wine list. With a killer view of the Blue Mosque and Sea of Marmara, as well as very comfortable seating and occasional live Turkish music, this place is quite possibly the best eating option in Sultanahmet.
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Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu
What a shame this utterly fabulous eatery is so far out of the city! If it were closer, we'd be eating here morning, noon and night. At the very top of the hill where the Monastery of St George is located, its benches and chairs are set up on a terrace overlooking the sea and back to İstanbul.
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Zencefil
This popular vegetarian café is comfortable and quietly stylish. Try the daily and weekly specials to get crunchy-fresh produce (all organic) and guilt-free desserts. The slabs of homemade bread are a highlight.
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Zeyrekhane
This restaurant beside the Zeyrek Camii (mosque) has an outdoor garden with cushioned couches on which to recline and soak up views of Süleymaniye Mosque and the Golden Horn. It serves tasty mains like quail kebab with eggplant, as well as snacks. In winter it's possible to order the strange local drink boza , made from fermented bulgur with water and sugar.
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Zinhan Kebap House At Storks
Zinhan's regal position next to the Galata Bridge means that every İstanbullu knows it. Here you'll enjoy an excellent meal on one of the most impressive roof terraces in the city - the views from here are simply sensational. You'll sit on comfortable chairs at huge well-spaced tables to enjoy tasty mezes and sophisticated kebab dishes. Also on offer are international dishes and a well-priced wine list.
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