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Krependeki İmroz Restaurant
The minute you see the waiters heaving around their enormous meze-laden trays in this popular meyhane you'll know you've made the right dinner choice. With outdoor tables on both sides of the street, you'll also have a slightly better chance of scoring a spot in the middle of the action - book ahead. The food is typical of Gökceada (İmroz) and is top-class; be sure to include the octopus salad and pickled anchovies in your meze choices.
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Meshur Kuru Fasülyeci
This popular local lokanta in the former medrese of the Süleymaniye Camii serves its famous spicy fasülyeci (broad beans) and rice to hordes of hungry locals from the theological college and nearby commercial areas.
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Müzedechanga
Müzedechanga İstanbul was agog when the relatively new Sakıp Sabancı Museum announced that one of the city's top restaurants, Changa, was going to relocate here during the summer months. Many were dubious that the Changa crew would be happy making the transition from Taksim to this sleepy Bosphorus suburb, but it soon became obvious to all that the curators at the museum know how to present a masterpiece, be it an artwork or a restaurant.
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Niyazibey
Niyazibey specialises in perde pilavı, a dish that it describes as hen and rooster meat (symbolising the bride and groom) cooked with rice (for blessing) and almonds (for children) and encased in pastry sheets (symbolising the home). Everything at this comfortable place is great, and it's fantastic value as well. There's another branch at Halıtağa Caddesi 5B in Kadıköy - neither sell alcohol.
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Refik
Refik is the original meyhane (tavern) in the Asmalımescit area and it's always full of large groups of liquored-up locals enjoying the convivial (and noisy) atmosphere and decent meyhane food. There are two dining areas (on each side of the street) and loads of streetside tables. Try the excellent çacık (yogurt and mint salad).
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Saray Muhallebicisi d
A muhallebici (pudding purveyor) that's been serving puddings to appreciative sweet-tooths since 1935, Saray is still going strong. You can pop in for a poğaça (breakfast bun) in the morning and a köfte sandwich for lunch, but it's most famous for sweet milk-based puddings such as fırın sütlaç and tavuk göysü (chicken pudding). There's also a recently opened branch in Eminönü.
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Sefa Restaurant
Locals rate this place near the bazaar highly, and after sampling the dishes on offer you'll realise why. It describes its cuisine as Ottoman, but what's really on offer here are top-quality lokanta dishes and kebaps at extremely reasonable prices. You can order from an English menu or choose from the bain marie - the vegetable dishes are particularly appetising and they'll let you order half portions if you ask nicely.
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Şehzade Mehmed Sofrasi
Locations don't come any better than this. You'll find this welcoming restaurant and çay bahçesi in the magnificent külliye (mosque complex) of the Şehzade Mehmed Camii . After a tasty meal of köfte , tavuk kavurma (roast chicken), kebap or pide you can settle back on one of the Turkish couches and relax over a Türk kahvesi (Turkish coffee) and narghileh. Enter from the garden at the rear of the mosque.
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Subaşi Lokantasi
This place first opened its doors in 1959 and it's been feeding a constant stream of the Grand Bazaar's shopkeepers and customers ever since. Choose from the spread of excellent hot food in the kitchen on the right as you enter and then grab a seat at a table. Don't let the waiters cajole you into ordering an expensive mixed plate; instead check out the price list at the door and order by the portion. You'll find it near the Nuruosmaniye gate.
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Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta
This is one of the most famous eateries in the city, and to be frank, we're at a total loss to understand why. The ever-present queues of locals obviously adore its rubbery köfte (meatballs) served with bread, beans, salad and pickled chillies, but we have always been underwhelmed. Why not try it yourself, though? The place is certainly clean, cheap and cheerful.
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Teras Restaurant
The chef at this posh hotel restaurant came up with an inspired idea when he devised his Turkish degustation menu. Six sampling courses of 'İstanbul cuisine' feature, and they are wonderfully complemented by an excellent (and affordable) wine list. With a killer view of the Blue Mosque and Sea of Marmara, as well as very comfortable seating and occasional live Turkish music, this place is quite possibly the best eating option in Sultanahmet.
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Yücetepe Kır Gazinosu
What a shame this utterly fabulous eatery is so far out of the city! If it were closer, we'd be eating here morning, noon and night. At the very top of the hill where the Monastery of St George is located, its benches and chairs are set up on a terrace overlooking the sea and back to İstanbul.
