Istanbul Entertainment

  1. Andon

    In addition to a rooftop restaurant with fine views over the Bosphorus, a wine bar with a rowdy soloist, a disco in the ground-floor and a third floor dedicated to the so-called İstanbul sanat (art) music, Andon is known for the fasıl music performed in its excellent fourth-floor meyhane. Come prepared to sing along.

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  2. Angelique

    Angelique is a safe bet if you want to have dinner, a few drinks and a dance or two.

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  3. Babylon

    Recent developments have seen Babylon devoting itself exclusively to live performances; in this regard, it's truly a city institution. The eclectic program often features big-name international music acts, particularly during the festival season. DJ chill-out sessions have been moved to its restaurant-lounge right behind the concert hall.

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  4. Balans Music Hall

    After enjoying the city's best locally brewed beer (the caramel brew) on the first floor, the lively multinational crowd here separates. Rock aficionados gravitate to the upper floors and the rest of the crowd moves to the impressive 1500-person-capacity performance hall, which features a glass-encased winter garden that is as magical as it is acoustically enhancing. This is the outpost of the new crop of gig-goers. Check the website for details.

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  5. Blackk

    Blackk is worth a look for a few drinks and a twirl around the dance floor.

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  6. Despina

    Established in 1946 by the glamorous Madame Despina, whose faded photograph greets guests at the entrance, Despina is mainly patronised by neighbourhood locals, who come for its superb Armenian/Greek food (à la carte only) and the live fasıl music played by very accomplished musicians. On a warm evening the garden is a great setting for musical carousing.

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  7. Donjon

    Hip young things loll on the beanbags downstairs and listen to the in-house DJ spin his stuff; others seek out the pleasant roof balcony or the terraces with its swimming pool and imposing views over the Bosphorus. It's the second café from the fortress.

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  8. Garibaldi

    Garibaldi is tucked into the side alley of an old Armenian Catholic church in Odakule, along the same street side as the big Collezione store. Its set menu means that you don't have to make any decisions other than to enjoy yourself, something that is ensured by the pleasing six-member fasıl group. There's a garden area if you don't feel like joining the action in the dining hall.

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  9. Ghetto

    Décor-wise, this three-story club behind Çiçek Pasajı makes a bold postmodern statement, with Renaissance-style painted high ceilings and a long, back-illuminated bar with bottles that seem to glow in the dark. The musical program is equally interesting, comprising creative foreign or local live acts. At Ghetto Terras (reached via a back staircase) techno and house music rule.

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  10. İstanbul Jazz Center

    Owner Kerem Görsev, a popular Turkish jazz icon, has a free hand when it comes to booking the jazz world's who's who. The club's stylish setting makes up for the dinner plus music plus drinks bill, which is steep (domestic beer around YTL13.00 ).

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  12. Jazz Café

    Bathed in mood lighting, this mellow place boasts expat hosts and loads of 30-something jazz-heads. Live music kicks off at . The programme changes and isn't always jazz. Beer costs around YTL6.00 .

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  13. Kokosh By Asmali

    This place opposite the Pera Palas Hotel is famous for its entrancing sounds created by the zither and kettledrum, which supply the background for serious drinking and vociferous singing.

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  14. Nardis Jazz Club

    Just down the hill from the Galata Tower, this venue named after a Miles Davis track is where the real jazz aficionados go. Run by jazz guitarist Önder Focan and his wife Zuhal, a director of the local magazine Jazz, Nardis is small but big in atmosphere. Its line-up of performers is exceptionally good; some come from the winners' ranks of its yearly amateur contest and others are visiting international artists. Book ahead.

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  15. Q Jazz By Les Ottomans

    This luxury hotel on the Bosphorus, which aims to replicate an Ottoman pasha's splendiferous surroundings, offers the chance to enjoy first-rate international jazz vocalists for a small cover charge. The bar menu isn't outrageously priced, either.

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  16. Roxy

    Bright young things flock to this dance-and-performance club that's been around since 1994. It recently expanded its premises to include a gallery, a party space and YAN Gastro Bar. It works to your advantage if you eat here before clubbing because you get a free pass, dodging the long line outside. If you come late you might not get in. The cover charge on Friday and Saturday includes one drink.

    Check the website for who's playing and think seriously about organising tickets ahead of time.

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