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5 Kat
Run by glamorous red-haired film actress Yasemin Alkaya, 5 Kat is one of the city's original glamour bars. The 'boudoir chic' décor features deep red walls, satin ceiling, velvet chairs and candles galore - it's amusingly over the top. The Bosphorus views from the full-length windows are simply breathtaking and in the warmer months there's a rooftop terrace bar as well.
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Ada
The side streets off İstiklal may be full of great cafés and bars, but the grand boulevard itself possesses a motley range of choices. Fortunately, Ada is the exception. A cavernous place that's half book and music store and half bar-café, it has style and substance in equal measure. The house wine by the glass is Antik, an excellent quaffing drop, and the coffee is good too.
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Anemon Galata Bar
As yet undiscovered by the İstanbul bar set, this eyrie on top of a recently restored Ottoman hotel is one of the best places in the city to watch the sun set while enjoying a cocktail. Views over to Old İstanbul and across the Golden Horn are stunning.
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Araf
This is grungy fun central for English teachers and Turkish language students, who shake their booties to the in-house gypsy band and swill the cheapest club beer around (a mere 5YTL). To avoid the locals' weekend mating madness, go on Tuesday or Wednesday.
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Badehane
This tiny neighbourhood bar is a favourite with Beyoğlu's bohemian set. In fine weather patrons chain smoke, sip beer and play backgammon in the laneway. When it's cold, dark or wet, the action moves inside and is often accompanied by live music. Dress down and come ready to enjoy an attitude-free evening.
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Balkan Türkleri Dayanişma Ve Kültür Derneği
This club, set in the pleasant courtyard of the Koca Sinan Paşa Medrese, is a pretty spot in which to enjoy a cup of Türk kahvesi or çay . Enter through the gate to Koca Sinan Paşa's tomb.
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Büyük Londra Oteli Bar
This is a true time-warp experience. We'd hazard a guess that the décor at this historic hotel has remained untouched for close on a century, and we're pleased to report that the prices haven't hiked up much during that time. The gins and tonics are pricey but lordy, they're strong!
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Cheers Bar
Slap-bang in the middle of backpacker central, this raucous bar is not for the faint-hearted. If you can imagine nothing better than sinking a skinful, listening to Men at Work's Land Down Under and bragging about how cheaply you're managing to live while on the road, this place is for you. The nearby Just Bar offers more of the same.
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Club 17
Attractive young men looking for hormonal release or patronage pack this small, narrow bar as aggressive techno beats accompany wafting sexual energies. At closing, the veritable meat rack in the street makes final hook-up attempts possible.
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Crystal
This is home to the city's techno aficionados, who come here to appreciate sets put together by some of the best DJs from Turkey and the rest of Europe. There's a great sound system, a crowded dance floor and a lovely covered garden bar. The Friday and Saturday cover charge includes one drink.
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Cumhuriyet
The drinks and à la carte dishes at this three-storey meyhane are incredibly reasonably priced. Atmosphere is nostalgic, as befits a place that was known to have been a favourite watering hole of Atatürk (check out the photos of him on the walls). The name is Turkish for 'Republic'.
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Degustasyon
This place has three stories with a summer terrace, and can accommodate 180 persons, meaning that you can usually just walk in off the street. Good cheap food and lively music are dished up - a real find in the Fish Market.
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Déjá Vu
Progressive electronica and hip-hop lasso in the youthful dancers contorting on the dance floor, while other dance enthusiasts egg them on. This is the place to go with the musical flow. The cover charge includes one drink.
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Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi
The Derviş' paved courtyard, which is superbly located directly opposite the Blue Mosque, beckons patrons with its comfortable cane chairs and shady trees. Efficient service, reasonable prices and peerless people-watching opportunities make it a great place for a leisurely tea, nargileh and game of backgammon.
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Erenler Çay Bahçesi
Packed to the rafters with students from nearby İstanbul University, who are doing their best to live up to their heritage (ie develop a major tobacco addiction), this nargileh establishment is set in the leafy courtyard of the Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medrese and has a row of carpet shops down its side.
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Etham Tezçakar Kahveci
This tiny tea and coffee stop is found smack-bang in the middle of Halıciŀar Caddesi. Its traditional brass-tray tables and wooden stools stand in stark contrast to the funky and more-expensive Fes Café opposite.
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Fes Café
A relaxed atmosphere prevails in this sister establishment of the well-known Grand Bazaar café. It's a good spot for a post-bazaar recovery, with good-quality Illy coffee and home-made lemonade on offer.
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Gabile
A circus atmosphere prevails in Gabile's three floors and rooftop terrace. Circuit clones, fey young things, lipstick lesbians and straying straights mix to enjoy the amateurishly staged drag and erotic shows. It's unbridled fun to the max.
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Haco Pulo
Set in a picturesque cobbled courtyard, this was one of original tea-and-nargileh joints to open in the side streets off İstiklal Caddesi. Locals love it, and we hazard a guess that you will, too.
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Il Porto
There are a number of ways to observe the glam Bebek set at play: you can dine at the mega-pricey Poseidon, have a coffee on the terrace at Starbucks or enjoy a casual summer lunch on the terrace here at Il Porto. Built right over the water, this is a good spot to see and be seen - the food is perfectly acceptable, but that's not why the crowds are here. Wear casual designer togs and have a botox shot before you go.
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James Joyce Irish Pub
The only authentic Irish bar in town, this popular place is a good spot to enjoy a pint and a craic . There's a mixed crowd and a popular all-day breakfast. It occasionally organises live sessions of traditional Irish folk music and performances by Irish singers.
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Karga Bar
Karga is one of the most famous bars in the city, offering up cheap drinks, loud music and avant-garde art on its walls and in the upstairs gallery. It doesn't have a street sign - look for a green and cream building with a wooden door. There's a small courtyard downstairs that's a great spot to enjoy a late-afternoon beer. Nearby Isis and Bahane Kültür are also good bets.
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KeVe
Is this the most atmospheric bar in the city? In a plant-filled Belle Époque arcade just opposite the Tünel station, KeVe is invariably full of thirty-somethings who've just been to a gallery opening on İstiklal and need a drink before moving on to see a new arthouse release at the cinema. The twinkling lights and wrought-iron tables add mightily to the atmosphere.
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Klub Karaoke
It had to happen. Some bright spark knew Turks would take to karaoke like ducks to water and recently opened İstanbul's first sing-a-long venue. Locals come in large gaggles and book out the huge private rooms, but the 'İstanbul Central' room is a free-for-all, so check your pride in at the door and enjoy. Rock the house with Rod Stewart's 'Young Turks'.
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Kybele Hotel Bar
The lounge bar at this charming but vaguely eccentric hotel is chock-full of antique furniture, richly coloured rugs and old etchings and prints, but its signature style comes courtesy of the hundreds of colourful glass lights that are suspended from the ceiling. It's a wonderfully atmospheric spot for a pre-dinner drink.
