Things to do in Sivas
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Atatürk Congress & Ethnography Museum
Opposite the Kale Camii is the imposing Ottoman school building that hosted the Sivas Congress in 1919. Today it's a museum (enter via the rear).
The extensive Ottoman ethnographical collection, displayed on the ground floor, features a fine selection of kilims and carpets, including some impressive examples showing local weaving style; a demonstration of pillowcase-making (another local craft); a 12th-century wooden mimber from Divriği's Ulu Cami; and dervish ceremonial beads, weapons and mystics' caps.
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Sema Hanımın Yeri
In this rustic, wood-panelled restaurant, the welcoming Madame Sema serves home-cooked food such as içli köfte (meatballs stuffed with spices and nuts). Watch gözleme being made while trying three dishes for TL4.
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Gök Medrese
From the Ulu Cami, turn right (south) on Cumhuriyet Caddesi and you will soon see the twin minarets of the glorious Gök Medrese (Sky-Blue Seminary). This was built in 1271 at the behest of Sahib-i Ata, the grand vizier of Sultan Gıyasettin Keyhüsrev III, who funded Konya's Sahib-i Ata mosque complex. The facade is exuberantly decorated with tiles, brickwork designs and carving, covering not just the usual inlaid portal but the walls as well. The blue tile work on the minarets gave the school its name.
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Çifte Minare Medrese
Commissioned by the Mongol-İlkhanid vizier Şemsettin Güveyni after defeating the Seljuks at the battle of Kosedağ, the Çifte Minare Medrese (Seminary of the Twin Minarets; 1271) has a çifte (pair) of mighty minarets. In fact, that's about all that is left, along with the elaborate portal and facade. Stand on the path between the Çifte and Şifaiye medreses to see the difference made by half a century and a shift in power.
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Ulu Cami
The town's other sights are southeast of Hükümet Meydanı along Cemal Gürsel and Cumhuriyet Caddesis; walk just past the southern end of the park and turn left onto Cemal Gürsel Caddesi.
The Ulu Cami 9Great Mosque; 1197) is Sivas' oldest significant building, and one of Anatolia's oldest mosques. Built by the Danışmends, it's a large, low room with a forest of 50 columns. The super-fat leaning brick minaret was added in 1213. Inside, 11 handmade stone bands surround the main praying area and the ornate mihrab was discovered during renovations in 1955. It has a certain old-Anatolian charm, slightly marred by modern additions.
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Yeşil Café
This friendly apple-green café-restaurant might not look like much until you get out onto the tiny balcony and realise you have the best views of the neon-lit twin minarets, like, ever. What's more, the menu's even enough to distract you from them, with pasta, schnitzel, grills and an actual choice of milkshakes.
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Bürüciye Medresesi
Go through a monumental Seljuk gateway to get to the Bürüciye Medresesi. It was built to teach 'positive sciences' in 1271 by the Iranian businessman Muzaffer Bürücerdi, whose tiled tomb is inside. A tea garden currently occupies the courtyard, with regular exhibitions.
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Büyük Merkez Lokantası
This lokanta is popular at lunchtime, when you may find yourself sharing a table with an office clerk. The menu includes döners and the house speciality sebzeli Sivas kebapı (TL14.50), a local take on the Tokat kebap.
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Güleryüz Lokantası
The tiniest but most characterful of the row of cheap eateries down the street next to the PTT, with pictures for anyone having menu difficulties.
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Kale Camii
The Kale Camii is a squat Ottoman work constructed by Sultan Murat III's grand vizier Mahmut Paşa.
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Şifaiye Medresesi
Across the park from the Bürüciye Medresesi is one of the city's oldest buildings, the Şifaiye Medresesi (1218). It was one of the most important medical schools built by the Seljuks and was once Anatolia's foremost hospital.
Look to the right as you enter the courtyard to see the porch that was walled up as a tomb for Sultan İzzettin Keykavus I, who commissioned the building before he died of tuberculosis.
The decoration features stylised sun/lion and moon/bull motifs, beautiful blue Azeri tile work and a poem in Arabic, composed by the sultan. The main courtyard has four eyvans, with sun and moon symbols on either side of the eastern one.
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Perde Café
This two-storey hangout for teenagers and university students feels like a fun secret that everybody's keeping. Milkshakes, boardgames, burgers and waffles are the favourites; it's behind the Sivas Büyük Otel.
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Kale Camii & Bürüciye Medresesi
Most of Sivas' Seljuk buildings are in the park just south of Hükümet Meydanı. Here you'll find the Kale Camii (1580), a squat Ottoman work constructed by Sultan Murat III's grand vizier Mahmut Paşa.
Just east of the Kale Camii, reached through a monumental Seljuk gateway, is the Bürüciye Medresesi, built to teach 'positive sciences' in 1271 by the Iranian businessman Muzaffer Bürücerdi, whose tiled tomb is inside. The tea garden in the courtyard, where exhibitions are held, is good for a çay in the evening, when spotlights illuminate the building.
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Edessa Lahmacun
The pick of the lahmacun joints is conveniently near the hotels and the friendly manager speaks serviceable English.
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