Things to do in Safranbolu
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Ottoman Houses
Just walking through Çarşı is a feast for the eyes. Virtually every house in the district is an original, and what little modern development there is has been held in check. Many of the finest historic houses have been restored, and as time goes on, more and more are being saved from deterioration and turned into hotels, shops or museums.
Kaymakamlar Müze Evi, the most interesting of three old houses that have been turned into museums, has all the typical features of Ottoman homes. It was owned by a lieutenant colonel and still feels like an address of note as you climb the stairs towards the wooden ceiling decoration. Tableaux recreate everyday scenes such as bathing…
reviewed
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Yemeniciler Arastası
Safranbolu is a great place to pick up all sorts of handicrafts - especially textiles, metalwork, shoes and wooden artefacts - whether locally made or shipped in from elsewhere to supply browsing coach tourists. The restored Yemeniciler Arastası , the Peasant Shoe-Makers' Bazaar, is the best place to start looking, although the makers of the light, flat-heeled shoes who used to work here have long since moved out.
The further you go from the arasta the more likely you are to come across shops occupied by authentic working saddle-makers, felt-makers and other artisans.
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Cinci Hamam
One of the best bathhouses in all of Turkey, with separate baths for men and women – but steeply priced at TL40 for the works.
reviewed
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Eski Hükümet Konağı
On the other side of town, Safranbolu's castle was demolished early in the last century to make way for the attractive Eski Hükümet Konağı , an old government building on the hilltop near an old clock tower. You can wander round, but don't loiter too long near the police post!
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Kadıoğlu Şehzade Sofrası
Tucked behind a pretty courtyard and sought after by savvy locals, this mansion restaurant has a lowdown Ottoman seating plan. We recommend any of the huge, steaming hot pide, çorba (soup), grills and zerde (saffron dessert). The rooms are tacky but pretty large.
reviewed
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Havuzlu Köşk Et Lokantası
For an enchanted evening, direct your designated driver straight to this attractive licensed restaurant, where you can dine at tables set around an upstairs pool or in a pleasant garden. The menu runs the gamut of Turkish standards: kebaps, köfte (meatballs), salads etc.
reviewed
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İmren Lokumları
Overlooking the main square in Çarşı, this flagship sweet shop has a sprawling 1st-floor café complete with fountain and mannequins showing off Ottoman-style costumes. Try the safranlı zerde, a gelatinous dessert flavoured with saffron.
reviewed
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Köprülü Mehmet Paşa Camii
This beefy, helmet-roofed building beside the arasta (row of shops beside a mosque) dates to 1661. The metal sundial in the courtyard was added in the mid-19th century.
reviewed
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Hıdırlık Parkı
Uphill past the Kaymakamlar Müze Evi, enjoy panoramic views from here.
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Çevrikköprü 2
Just off the main square, overlooking the lower part of town, this is a neat old-style restaurant with plenty on the menu. There's another branch next door, and the original is on the way to Yörük Köyü.
reviewed
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Arasta Lonca Kahvesi
This is one of the town's most congenial places for a coffee, but it's in the thick of the arasta action, so you pay for the atmosphere (çay TL2.50); head to the backstreets for a quieter, cheaper cuppa.
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Merkez Lokantası
This quaint, clean and friendly place still uses a wood fire to cook its tasty basic staples.
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Kazan Ocağı
The Kazan is a friendly little family place which serves real home-cooked meals at dainty tables with cute little Ottoman-house serviette dispensers.
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Asmaaltı Café-Bar
This place displays enough dark wood to recreate a rainforest; live music helps the food go down here - or vice versa.
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İzzet Paşa Camii
One of the largest mosques built during the Ottoman Empire, built by the grand vizier in 1796 and restored in 1903, and showing European architectural influence.
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Türkü Cafe
On Safranbolu's equivalent of a bar strip, this friendly place is run by a cool mother and daughter team who pour ice cold Efes in the shadow of Cinci Hanı. Türkü also hosts regular live music in the form of locals belting out pop tunes.
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Taşev
Visitors to Safranbolu now have a bonafide contemporary dining option that delivers on thick steaks and creamy pasta dishes. Service is more aloof than elsewhere in town, but the alluring wall art, multi-purpose exhibition space and extensive wine menu make this a long overdue change from Ottoman-inspired dining.
reviewed
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Safranbolu Sofrası
This friendly cafe offers an authentic local experience – in the sense that Turkish soap operas and music videos accompany dining. The delicious dishes include dolma with yoghurt and tomato sauce and cevizli yayım (macaroni topped with walnuts). If you like the saffron tea, buy a jar of the yellow powder.
reviewed
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Sade Kahve
Opposite a slew of tinkerers and metalbenders, this is a fabulous little find run by coffee fanatics who make a mean brew, Turkish or otherwise, and the most delicious waffles in town. From the curvy cup handles to the complimentary chocolate, Sade is smooth.
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Meydan
This central hang-out is popular with young guys who sit outside playing backgammon. The menu features gözleme (savoury pancake), çeşiterli (Turkish pancake) and çorba. The menu has English translations.
reviewed
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Kent Tarıhı Müzesi
Safranbolu's hilltop castle was demolished early in the last century to make way for the yellow Eski Hükümet Konağı (old government building), which was restored following a fire in 1976. English interpretive panels are scarce in the museum inside, but the exhibits are a decent introduction to local life. The reconstructions of old shops in the marble-floored basement include a chemist's store with the inevitable saffron teinture among the elixirs.
The ticket to the museum also covers the neighbouring clock tower (1797), built by grand vizier (prime minister) İzzet Mehmet Paşa. Climb the tower on the hour to see its clockwork hammer strike and hear the chimes ring arou…
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Cinci Hanı
There's enough room for two Turkish weddings in this beautiful caravanserai restaurant, so it can feel a little lonely at times. Still, it's worth dining here if you're not staying the night. The menu features healthy selections of pide, grills and Western favourites. There is also a cafe-bar.
reviewed
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Cinci Hanı
Çarşı's most famous and imposing structure, a brooding 17th-century caravanserai that's now an upmarket hotel. On Saturdays a market takes place in the square behind it.
reviewed
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Çevrikköprü 3
Down the hill towards the old town is the third branch of this one-town chain (number 2 is next door). Despite it being a chain restaurant, it's inviting and serves huge plates of traditional food at cheeky prices. The service is keen and the menu the length of a novella.
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Bizım Cafe
Deep in the old shopping district is this welcoming little family-run restaurant that serves whatever's on the stove, which luckily is always pretty good, including dolmades rolled on the street and deliciously spicy soups. Locals love it.
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