Things to do in Safranbolu
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Ottoman Houses
Just walking through Çarşı is a feast for the eyes. Virtually every house in the district is an original, and what little modern development there is has been held in check. Many of the finest historic houses have been restored, and as time goes on, more and more are being saved from deterioration and turned into hotels, shops or museums.
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Yemeniciler Arastası
The restored Yemeniciler Arastası is the best place to start looking for crafts, although the makers of the light, flat-heeled shoes who used to work here have long since moved out. The further you go from the arasta the more likely you are to come across shops occupied by authentic working saddle-makers, felt-makers and other artisans.
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Cinci Hamam
One of the most renowned bathhouses in all of Turkey, with separate baths for men and women.
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Eski Hükümet Konağı
On the other side of town, Safranbolu's castle was demolished early in the last century to make way for the attractive Eski Hükümet Konağı , an old government building on the hilltop near an old clock tower. You can wander round, but don't loiter too long near the police post!
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Kadıoğlu Şehzade Sofrası
It's all traditional Ottoman-style seating at this converted mansion restaurant. The huge, steaming hot pide, çorba, grills and zerde (saffron dessert) are all recommended. The rooms are tacky but pretty large and service is swift.
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Havuzlu Köşk Et Lokantası
For an enchanted evening, direct your designated driver straight to this attractive licensed restaurant, where you can dine at tables set around an upstairs pool or in a pleasant garden. The menu runs the gamut of Turkish standards: kebaps, köfte (meatballs), salads etc.
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İmren Lokumları
Overlooking the main square in Çarşı, this flagship sweet shop has a sprawling 1st-floor café complete with fountain and mannequins showing off Ottoman-style costumes. Try the safranlı zerde, a gelatinous dessert flavoured with saffron.
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Köprülü Mehmet Paşa Camii
This beefy, helmet-roofed building beside the Yemeniciler Arastası (s row of shops beside a mosque) dates to 1661. The metal sundial in the courtyard was added in the mid-19th century.
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Hıdırlık Parkı
Uphill past the Kaymakamlar Müze Evi, enjoy panoramic views from here.
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Çevrikköprü 2
Just off the main square, overlooking the lower part of town, this is a neat old-style restaurant with plenty on the menu. There's another branch next door, and the original is on the way to Yörük Köyü.
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Arasta Lonca Kahvesi
This is one of the town's most congenial places for a coffee, but it's in the thick of the arasta action, so you pay for the atmosphere (çay TL2.50); head to the backstreets for a quieter, cheaper cuppa.
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Merkez Lokantası
This quaint, clean and friendly place still uses a wood fire to cook its tasty basic staples.
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Kazan Ocağı
The Kazan is a friendly little family place which serves real home-cooked meals at dainty tables with cute little Ottoman-house serviette dispensers.
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Asmaaltı Café-Bar
This place displays enough dark wood to recreate a rainforest; live music helps the food go down here - or vice versa.
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İzzet Paşa Camii
One of the largest mosques constructed during the Ottoman Empire, built by the grand vizier in 1796 and restored in 1903. Its design was influenced by European architecture.
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Safrantat
Although Safranbolu is so packed with sweet shops that you half expect the houses to be made out of gingerbread, Safrantat is one of the top picks for sugary delights. Don't leave without trying the regional speciality, yaprak helvası – delicious chewy layers of white helva (halva) spotted with ground walnuts. You can also visit the Safrantat factory behind the petrol station in Kıranköy to see how lokum is made.
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Kileciler Evi
Built in 1884, this mansion also has 1950s period pieces among the family heirlooms in its cupboards. The whitewashed interior has been attractively renovated, with exhibits including family photos, carpets and mannequins clad in traditional clothes. As the information sheet explains, the 99 cupboards symbolise the 99 names of God.
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Kaymakamlar Müze Evi
This typical Safranbolu home has all the classic features of Ottoman houses. It was owned by a lieutenant colonel and still feels like an address of note as you climb the stairs towards the wooden ceiling decoration. Tableaux (featuring some rather weary mannequins) recreate scenes such as bathing in a cupboard and a wedding feast.
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Hanım Sultan
Squirreled away down a little alleyway, this place rustles up rustic, wholesome cooking. Try the divine pot of etlı dolma (vine leaves stuffed with meat) for a hearty, delicious lunch.
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Çızgi Cafe
Eat on the cushioned benches outside and watch the world go by, or dine inside in one of the cosily intimate cubby-hole dining areas. Çızgi is an easygoing place where local dishes such as cevizli yayım (macaroni topped with walnuts) and mantı (Turkish ravioli) are on the small menu, and it's all about wasting hours talking over coffee and nargile afterwards.
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Bestemi Gözleme
Cheap and cheerful, this family-run restaurant may not be big on atmosphere but it delivers big portions of flavourful Turkish favourites at bargain prices. The mantı is worth the wait.
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Türkü Cafe
On Safranbolu's equivalent of a bar strip, this friendly place is run by a cool mother-and-daughter team who pour ice-cold Efes with smiley efficency. Türkü also hosts regular live music in the form of locals belting out pop tunes.
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Taşev
Visitors to Safranbolu now have a bona fide contemporary dining option that delivers on thick steaks and creamy pasta dishes. The Turkish cheese platter (TL15) is a must for cheese lovers. Service is more aloof than elsewhere in town, but the alluring wall art, multipurpose exhibition space and extensive wine menu make this a long-overdue change from Ottoman-inspired dining.
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Safranbolu Sofrası
This friendly cafe offers an authentic local experience – in the sense that Turkish soap operas and music videos accompany dining. The delicious dishes include dolma with yoghurt and tomato sauce and cevizli yayım (macaroni topped with walnuts). If you like the saffron tea, buy a jar of the yellow powder.
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Sade Kahve
Opposite a slew of tinkerers and metalbenders, this is a fabulous little find run by coffee fanatics who make a mean brew, Turkish or otherwise, and the most delicious waffles in town. From the cappuccinos to the complimentary cake, Sade is smooth.
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