Ottoman Houses

Just walking through Çarşı is a feast for the eyes. Virtually every house in the district is an original, and what little modern development there is has been held in check. Many of the finest historic houses have been restored, and as time goes on, more and more are being saved from deterioration and turned into hotels, shops or museums.

Kaymakamlar Müze Evi, the most interesting of three old houses that have been turned into museums, has all the typical features of Ottoman homes. It was owned by a lieutenant colonel and still feels like an address of note as you climb the stairs towards the wooden ceiling decoration. Tableaux recreate everyday scenes such as bathing in the cupboard, and the wedding feast, when the women served the men using the dönme dolaplar (revolving cupboard).

Kileciler Evi (1884) also has 1950s period pieces among the family heirlooms in its cupboards. However, the whitewashed interior has been attractively renovated, with exhibits including family photos, carpets and mannequins clad in traditional clothes. As the information sheet explains, the 99 cupboards symbolise the 99 names of God.

The exhibition rooms in the houses are generally open daily from 9am to 7pm and charge TL2 to TL2.50 for adult admission (TL1 for children). Tea is served in their gardens and the properties open more sporadically during winter.

Some of the largest houses had indoor pools, which, although big enough for swimming, were used instead to cool the rooms with running water, which also provided pleasing background noise. The best and most accessible example in Çarşı is the Havuzlu Asmazlar Konağı, now run as a hotel.