Things to do in Gaziantep (Antep)
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Kale
Get your bearings of the urban sprawl you're going to embrace by climbing up the unmissable castle. The citadel is thought to have been constructed by the Romans. It was restored by Emperor Justinian in the 6th century AD, and rebuilt extensively by the Seljuks in the 12th and 13th centuries. The interior of the castle contains the grandiosly named Gaziantep Defence and Heroism Panoramic Museum, a tribute to the men and women who bravely defended the city in 1920. Life-size statues of generals, soldiers and ordinary people bring alive the city's tenacious struggle against the French. Comprehensive information panels are in English.
The quarter at the foot of the citadel ha…
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Gaziantep Museum
The place to see some of the most magnificent mosaics in the world, the Gaziantep Museum has been spruced up, expanded and rearranged. Even if the idea of an archeology museum usually sends you to sleep, this place will amaze you with its collection of the many mosaics unearthed at the rich Roman site of Belkıs-Zeugma, just before the new Birecik Dam flooded some of the site forever.
It's impossible not to fall in love with the Gipsy Girl, from the 2nd century AD, reportedly the museum's highlight - we agree. Make also a beeline for the famous Scene of Achilles being sent to the Trojan War.
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Hasan Süzer Ethnography Museum
Occupying a restored 200-year-old Gaziantep stone house tucked away in a side street off Atatürk Bulvarı, this museum is well worth a visit. A central hayat (courtyard) patterned with light and dark stone provides access to the rooms. Those on the ground floor were for service; those on the 1st floor made up the selamlık (quarters for male family members and their visitors); and those on the 2nd floor made up the haremlik (for female family members and their visitors).
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Baro Lokali
It's the setting that's the pull here, an enchanting leaf-dappled outdoor terrace at the western end of the 100 Yıl Atatürk Kültür Parkı (about TL8 by taxi) – perfect for escaping sticky Gaziantep on a hot summer day. Good choice of mezes and meat dishes. You can order beer, rakı or wine with your meal.
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İncilipinar Sofrası
Hmm, will it be çoban salata (salad), altı ezmeli (a stew with tomato sauce served in a clay pot) or ali nazik (aubergine puree with yogurt and ground meat)? Set on the edge of a leafy park, this widely acclaimed venue serves savoury fare in seductively cosy rooms complete with cushions, low tables and old artefacts. It's also a good place to puff a nargileh (water pipe). Alas, it's not licensed - there's a mosque nearby.
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İmam Çağdaş
This talismanic pastry shop and restaurant is run by the Çağdaş family, and their wicked pistachio baklava is delivered daily to customers throughout Turkey. If there were a kebap Oscar, this place would be a serious contender. The secret? Fresh, carefully chosen ingredients and the inimitable 'Çağdaş touch'. Our pick? The creamy, chargrilled aubergine flavours of the ali nazik kebap.
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Çulcuoğlu Et Lokantası
Surrender helplessly to your inner carnivore at this Gaziantep institution. The yummy kebaps are the way to go, but grilled chicken also puts in menu appearances. Don't be fooled by the unremarkable entrance; there's a vast, neat dining area at the back. It's tucked away down a narrow side street across the otopark near the Şıra Hanı, about 20m from a little mosque called Nur Ali.
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Ekim 29 Kafe-Bar-Restaurant
Set in a converted old house, this mellow place feels light years away from the grinding pace of Gaziler Caddesi and time-warps you back to the past century, with dark wood furniture, cushions and wooden beams. Foodwise, it focuses on simple meals, such as salads, chicken dishes, appetisers and grills. There's live music every evening. Yes, it's licensed!
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Gürbüzün Yeri
Ultrafresh fruit juices are the deal in this buzzing hole-in-the-wall, so put some bounce in your step with a glass of atom (an explosive mixture of milk, honey, banana, hazelnuts and pistachio) or şalgam, a bitter but refreshing drink made from root vegetables, garlic and hot peppers. Lezzetli (delicious)!
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Kendirli KiIisesi
Wedged between modern buildings smack in the centre, this church is a startling vision. It was constructed by French priests with the help of Napoleon III in 1860. Seen from a distance, the building looks quite featureless, but a closer inspection reveals a number of eye-catching decorative elements, including black-and-white medallions.
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Papirüs Cafeteria
A student crowd (male and female, we promise) gathers here to take advantage of the delightfully authentic setting – it's housed in a historic mansion off Atatürk Bulvarı – and swap numbers in the leafy courtyard. Don't miss the ancient frescoes in the upstairs rooms.
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Bulvar Tavuk Döner
This central hole-in-the-wall would be a mere blip on busy İstasyon Caddesi, were it not for its well-executed chicken sandwiches and melt-in-your-mouth gözleme (savory pancakes). If the weather permits, grab one and walk down the street to the 100 Yıl Kültür Parkı.
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Mado Café
The super-slick Mado is the place to meet Gaziantep's movers and shakers. You can nosh on snacks and sip fruity cocktails, but the pastries and ice creams are what make the place tick.
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100 Yil Atatürk Kültür Parkı
If you're all market-ed and museum-ed out, this park is within spitting distance of Gaziantep's traffic-snarled main thoroughfares. It's a lovely space in the middle of the city and provides a green haven for nature lovers, families and courting 20-somethings. There are also a couple of good places for a relaxed sunset beer.
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Cafe Şehzade
The décor alone is worth a gander: the atmospheric Şehzade is housed in an 800-year-old converted hamam (bathhouse). The food, mostly snacks, is so-so but it's a good place to meet students and sip a cup of tea. Drop by in late afternoon, when there's live music.
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Ümit Döner
If you're pining for a yummy İskender kebap, Ümit's signature dish, this is the place to go. Portions are copious, the meat is perfectly slivered and the salads are fresh. Sandwiches and rice are also available.
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Kurtuluş Camii
Kurtuluş Camii is the most impressive of Gaziantep's many mosques, and is built on a small hill off the main thoroughfare. Initially constructed as a cathedral in 1892, it features alternating black-and-white stone banding.
Another mosque worth admiring is the Alaüddevle Camii, near the Coppersmiths' Market. Many other Gaziantep mosques have been recently restored, and are detailed on the Gaziantep History & Culture Road map available from the tourist office.
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Çavuşoğulu
Partly baklavacı, partly kebapçı, this sprightly outfit rustles up dishes that will fill your tummy without emptying your wallet. Portions are copious, the meat is perfectly slivered and the salads are fresh.
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Millet Hanı
A pleasant venue. Where else could you sip a cup of tea or sup a soup in a five-century-old converted caravanserai? The whole experience is a bit marred by the gaudy beach umbrellas in the courtyard.
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Önder Lahmacun Salonu
Turkish pizzas never tasted so good in this modern eatery situated a short bag-haul from Kurtuluş Camii.
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Asmalı Konak Cafe
A soothing venue set in a converted house, on a lively pedestrianised street. Nab a table on the balcony and watch the world stroll by with a glass of ayran in hand.
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Zılgıt Cafe-Bar
This cosy place full of nooks, crannies, carpets and cushions features live music every evening. Soft drinks and alcohol are available. It's near the Yunus Hotel.
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Baklava Ünlüler
Another treasure-trove for cake and sweet lovers with - you guessed it - excellent fıstıklı (pistachio) baklavas.
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Orkide Kahkeci
The tantalising scent of freshly baked cakes and biscuits wafting from the door will perk up even the most jaded proboscis.
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Café Bülbül
Another peaceful refuge. It lures in students in search of a pleasant spot to flirt and relax over a soft drink.
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