Citadel

When you're done with the museum, make the most of its location by wandering to the imposing hisar (citadel; Ankara Kalesi) just up the hill. The most interesting part of Ankara to poke about in, this well-preserved quarter of thick walls and intriguing winding streets took its present shape in the 9th century AD, when the Byzantine emperor Michael II constructed the outer ramparts. The inner walls, which the local authority is slowly rebuilding, date from the 7th century. To find it, head around the back of the museum up Gözcü Sokak, past the octagonal tower, to the Parmak Kapısı (Finger Gate), also called the Saatli Kapı (Clock Gate).

Opposite the gate, in the beautifully restored Çengelhan, the Rahmi M Koç Industrial Museum has three floors covering subjects as diverse as transport, science, music, computing, Atatürk and carpets, some with interactive features.

Walking straight ahead once you've entered Parmak Kapısı, through a gate on your left and past the And Evi cafe, you'll see Alaettin Camii on the left. The citadel mosque dates from the 12th century but has been extensively rebuilt. To your right a steep road leads to a flight of stairs taking you up to the Şark Kulesi (Eastern Tower), with panoramic city views. Although it's much harder to find, a tower to the north, Ak Kale (White Fort), also offers fine views. If you're coming up to the citadel along Hisarparkı Caddesi, look left about halfway up to see the remains of a Roman theatre from around 200 to 100 BC.

Inside the citadel local people still live as in a traditional Turkish village, and you'll see women beating and sorting skeins of wool. Broken column drums, bits of marble statuary and inscribed lintels are incorporated into the walls.