Sights in Ankara
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Anıt Kabir
The monumental mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881–1938), the founder of modern Turkey, is worth a visit to see how much sway he still holds over the Turkish people. Located high above the city, with an abundance of marble and an air of veneration, the Anıt Kabir is one of Ankara's more relaxing areas. As you approach the tomb, the Hurriyet Kulesi (Tower of Liberty) has interpretive panels and photos covering Atatürk's funeral, the construction of the tomb and the iconography of the site. Facing it, the İstiklal Kulesi (Tower of Independence) gives more detail, with models recreating scenes.
Continue along the Lion Rd, a 262m walkway lined with 24 lion statues –…
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Rahmi M Koç Industrial Museum
In the old Çengelhan the new Rahmi M Koç Industrial Museum is perfect for kids (and adults) who prefer a hands-on approach to staring at a bunch of pots behind glass, and has slightly less emphasis on transport than its original branch in İstanbul .
Walk straight ahead once you've entered the gate and you'll see, on your left, the citadel mosque, the Alaettin Camii, which dates from the 12th century but has been extensively rebuilt.
To your right a steep road leads to a flight of stairs taking you up to the Şark Kulesi (Eastern Tower), with panoramic city views. Although it's much harder to find, the tower at the north, Ak Kale (White Fort), also offers fine views. If …
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Museum of Anatolian Civilisations
The superb Museum of Anatolian Civilisations is the perfect introduction to the complex weave of Turkey's ancient past, housing artefacts cherry-picked from just about every significant archaeological site in Anatolia.
The museum is housed in a beautifully restored 15th-century bedesten (covered market). The 10-domed central marketplace houses reliefs and statues, while the surrounding hall displays exhibits from the earlier Anatolian civilisations: Palaeolithic, neolithic, chalcolithic, Bronze Age, Assyrian, Hittite, Phrygian, Urartian and Lydian. The downstairs sections hold classical Greek and Roman artefacts and a display on Ankara's history. Get there early to avoid t…
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Ethnography Museum
The Ethnography Museum is housed inside a white marble post-Ottoman building (1927) that served as Atatürk's mausoleum until 1953. To get there, go to Ulus metro station and follow Talat Paşa Bulvarı until you see the 'Etnografya Müzesi' sign (not the 'Resim ve Heykel Müzesi' sign).
Past the equestrian statue out front, the mausoleum is preserved in the entrance hall. Around the walls are photographs of Atatürk's funeral. The collection is superb, with displays covering henna ceremonies, Anatolian jewellery, rug-making, Seljuk ceramics, early-15th-century doors and (opposite the anxious-looking mannequins in the circumcision display) coffee. Also of interest are the c…
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Hacı Bayram Camii
Ankara's most revered mosque is Hacı Bayram Camii, near the Temple of Augustus & Rome. Hacı Bayram Veli was a Muslim 'saint' who founded the Bayramiye dervish order around 1400. Ankara was the order's centre and Hacı Bayram Veli is still revered by pious Muslims. The mosque precincts are ringed with shops selling religious paraphernalia (including wooden toothbrushes as used, supposedly, by the Prophet Mohammed).
You can buy food to feed the pigeons in the nearby pigeon feeding area (Güvercin Yemleme Alanı).
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Museum of the War of Independence & Republic Museum
The former has a collection of military photographs and documents, housed in Turkey's first parliament (the Republican grand national assembly held early sessions here). The latter was the assembly's second headquarters, and features exhibits on the republic's beginnings.
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Open-Air Steam Locomotive Museum
The Open-Air Steam Locomotive Museum is a collection of slowly rusting vintage engines on the southwestern side of the station. To find it, descend the underpass as though you were going to the train platforms, but keep walking straight on. Just before entering the Tandoğan Kapalı Çarşı shopping area, climb the steps to your left, then turn right and continue for around 800m.
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Gençlik Parkı
Walk south from Ulus Meydanı along Atatürk Bulvarı and you'll soon reach the entrance to Gençlik Parkı, where Atatürk had a swamp converted into an artificial lake. The Luna Park funfair provides amusement for children and several pleasant çay bahçesi (tea gardens); single women should go for those with the word aile (family) in their name.
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Atakule
Ankara's landmark tower, the Atakule, has a revolving restaurant (mains TL16 to TL26) for 360-degree views; making a reservation exempts you from the admission fee. Shooting to the top in the glass lift is the hairiest part of the experience. There is a cinema in the mall at the bottom. Get here on Atakule- and Çankaya-bound buses down Atatürk Bulvarı.
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Republic Museum
The Republic Museum was the second headquarters of the grand national assembly, and its early history appears in photographs and documents. The captions are in Turkish but you don't need to read anything to get a sense of the republic's modest beginnings. The assembly itself is now housed in a rather more imposing building in Bakanlıklar.
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Kocatepe Camii
The outline of the huge Kocatepe Camii in Kızılay is now the symbol of Ankara. It may be one of the largest mosques in the world but it is also very new. However, Ankara does still have one or two older mosques, and the relics in the Ethnography Museums are poignant reminders of others that have long since disappeared.
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Railway Museum & Art Gallery
While waiting for a train at Ankara station you may want to take a look at the Railway Museum & Art Gallery, a small building on platform one that served as Atatürk's residence during the War of Independence. Right beside it is Atatürk's private rail coach, a gift from one Adolf Hitler.
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Aquapark Club Watercity
Further out of town in Gölbaşı, Aquapark Club Watercity has a range of outdoor, indoor and children's pools, sports facilities, water slides and restaurants. Dolmuşes run here from Opera Meydanı.
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Painting & Sculpture Museum
Next door to the Ethnography Museum, the Painting & Sculpture Museum occupies an equally elaborate building. Ranging from angular war scenes to society portraits, the pieces demonstrate that 19th- and 20th-century artistic developments in Turkey parallelled those in Europe, with Atatürk appearing in increasingly abstract form.
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Kuğulu Parkı
One of the oases in an often wearing city is Kuğulu Parkı, at the southern end of Tunalı Hilmi Caddesi.
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Botanik Park
The Botanik Parkı, which spills into a valley beneath the Atakule in Çankaya, is an oasis in the city.
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Parks
Walk south of Ulus Meydanı along Atatürk Bulvarı and you'll reach the entrance to Gençlik Parkı (Youth Park), where Atatürk had a swamp converted into an artificial lake. The park gets going during summer, but at other times it appears to be returning to swampland. The Luna Park funfair overlooks the slow decay, and there are çay bahçesi (tea gardens) by the lake; single women should only go to those with aile (family) in their name. In fact, single women should avoid the park altogether.
Other oases in the city are Kuğulu Parkı(Swan Park), at the southern end of Tunalı Hilmi Caddesi, and the Botanik Parkı (Botanical Park), spilling into a valley beneath the At…
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Mosques
The huge outline of Kocatepe Camii in Kızılay is the symbol of Ankara. It is one of the world's largest mosques but is also very new (built between 1967 and 1987).
Ankara's most revered mosque is Hacı Bayram Camii, near the Temple of Augustus and Rome. Hacı Bayram Veli was a Muslim 'saint' who founded the Bayramiye dervish order in about 1400. Ankara was the order's centre, and Hacı Bayram Veli is still revered by pious Muslims. The mosque was built in the 15th century, with tiling added in the 18th century. Surrounding shops sell religious paraphernalia (including wooden toothbrushes as used, supposedly, by the Prophet Mohammed).
If you turn left on leaving the hisar …
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Column of Julian
Erected in honour of Roman Emperor Julian the Apostate's visit to Ankara. In a square ringed by government buildings, it is usually topped by a stork's nest.
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Citadel
When you're done with the museum, make the most of its location by wandering to the imposing hisar (citadel; Ankara Kalesi) just up the hill. The most interesting part of Ankara to poke about in, this well-preserved quarter of thick walls and intriguing winding streets took its present shape in the 9th century AD, when the Byzantine emperor Michael II constructed the outer ramparts. The inner walls, which the local authority is slowly rebuilding, date from the 7th century. To find it, head around the back of the museum up Gözcü Sokak, past the octagonal tower, to the Parmak Kapısı (Finger Gate), also called the Saatli Kapı (Clock Gate).
Opposite the gate, in the beaut…
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