Things to do in Selçuk
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Ejder Restaurant
Run by a welcoming husband-and-wife team (Mehmet does the meat, his wife the veg), this popular restaurant is a firm favourite with travellers for its delicious dishes (try chicken şiş or the sizzling Anatolian meat platter) and atmospheric setting under the arches of the Roman Aqueduct. While waiting for your meal, ask to see the 25 tomes of comments left by diners – everyone leaves a note, their signature and a small memento (a metro ticket from their hometown, a foreign coin etc – we even found a parking ticket and human hair!). Careful perusers will find an autograph from the late Steve Irwin.
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Kebab House Mehmet & Alibaba
Covered in testimonials from contented customers, this friendly and informal joint dishes out tasty Turkish fare. The smiley owners are eager to please and are happy to educate the uninitiated palate with a variety of local treats such as Adana kebap. Complimentary coffee and yoghurt sides are the norm.
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Pink Bistro Café
The oldest drinking establishment in Selçuk, it's called a café, looks like a pub, but functions as a bar-cum nightclub. Ask Mesut, the bar tender, to demonstrate some of his famous magic tricks.
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St John's Café
Welcoming owners and top-notch coffee are the big draws at the welcoming li'l cafe. Down your cuppa with a special künefe dessert from Antioch or taste-test the zesty homemade hummus.
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Basilica of St John
St John is said to have come to Ephesus twice: once between AD 37 and AD 48 with the Virgin Mary, and again in AD 95 towards the end of his life, when he wrote his gospel on Ayasuluk Hill. A 4th-century tomb was believed to house his remains, so in the 6th century Emperor Justinian (r 527–65) erected a magnificent church, the Basilica of St John, on top of it.
Earthquakes and marauders turned the site into a heap of rubble until a century ago when restoration began; virtually all of what you see now is restored. In its day it was considered a near-marvel and attracted thousands of medieval pilgrims. Even today it still draws busloads of 'holy site' tourists during the se…
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Ephesus Museum
This excellent museum houses a striking collection of artefacts recovered from the ancient city. The first gallery is dedicated to finds from the Terrace Houses of Ephesus, including scales, jewellery and cosmetic boxes. This is also where you'll find the famous effigy of Priapus, the Phallic God, as seen plastered on every postcard from İstanbul to Antakya. No doubt to avoid offending delicate sensibilities, it's displayed inside a darkened case. Press the light to see him illuminated in all his rampant glory.
The other display areas hold collections of coins, funerary goods, and plenty of statuary. There's an entire room dedicated to sculpted representations of Eros, an…
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Temple of Artemis
Ephesus used to earn fabulous sums of money from pilgrims paying homage to the Ephesian fertility avatar of Artemis. The Temple of Artemis, at the western end of Selçuk, was in its day the largest in the world, eclipsing even the Parthenon at Athens, and thus earning a spot on the list of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Today, you're more likely to wonder where it all went. Only one of its original 127 columns remains, often as not topped by a stork's nest; a poignant testament to the transitory nature of human achievement. Still, it's a lovely tranquil place, the enormous pillar giving you some indication of the vast size of the temple.
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Citadel
Ayasuluk Hill offers fine views of the sites surrounding the Basilica of St John. The hilltop citadel to the north was constructed by the Byzantines in the 6th century, rebuilt by the Seljuks and restored in modern times. There is a Seljuk mosque and a ruined church inside but the citadel remains closed since part of the wall collapsed. Restoration work is under way and it should eventually reopen, though lack of funding appears to be holding it up currently.
As at Ephesus, you may be approached to buy 'ancient' coins, which despite their grimy appearance are modern.
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Crisler Library
Although not technically a 'sight', the Crisler Library is a wonderfully calm haven for those interested in learning more about Ephesus and the region's rich history. The library is the result of a bequest from a distinguished American biblical scholar, archaeologist and Harvard graduate, B Cobbey Crisler. Proving to be a terrific source of information on ancient, classical, biblical and Islamic history, it also boasts a lecture program, conference facilities, a well-stocked bookshop and a very informal cafe.
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Amazon
With its classical music and stools around a bar, the brand-new Amazon looks more wine-bar than restaurant, but the İzmiri chef has a great reputation and serves good international dishes using fresh local ingredients. The set lunch is great value. The paintings hung on the walls are by young local artists and are for sale. Outside there are a few tables with distant views of the Artemis temple.
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Tuğba
Recently awarded second prize for the 'Best Turkish Delight in Turkey', this well-known chain sells Turkish delight in all colours, flavours and forms, as well as dried nuts, seeds and fruit (great for long bus journeys). They also gift-wrap if you want to cart a year's supply home. Try the exquisite duble anterplı (pistaccio-studded variety).
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Café Carpouza
Housed in the 133-year-old former railway workers' lodging in the middle of a large green square, this is a cool, tranquil and relaxing place for breakfast, a beer or a cup of coffee, either on the veranda or inside the atmospheric building. Run by the municipality, prices are kept low; this place offers the best value in town.
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İsa Bey Camii
At the foot of Ayasuluk Hill is the imposing and beautiful İsa Bey Camii, built in 1375 by the Emir of Aydın in a post-Seljuk/pre-Ottoman transitional style. There's a bust of İsa Bey diagonally opposite. The mosque is usually open to visitors, except at prayer times. Leave your shoes at the door and remember to cover up properly. Interesting sidenote: the ornate carpets inside were donated by locals.
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Old House Restaurant & Bar
With tables set in little courtyard amid grapefruit and pomegranate trees, and decorated with lanterns, bird cages and wicker chairs, this is a pretty, cool and intimate place that does tasty Turkish dishes. Try the appetising speciality 'Old House Kebap' served sizzling on a platter
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Byzantine Aqueduct
The impressive remains of a Byzantine aqueduct serve today as a handy nesting place for storks who return to the same spots on it year after year. Eggs are laid in late April or May, and the birds stay right through to September.
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Seçkin Ciğercı
Small and simple, but with a good reputation for food, is Seçkin Ciğercı. Going since 1956 and run by four generations of the same family from the cosiest kitchen you've ever seen, it's a great place.
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Café Mosaik
New on the scene and like a kind of open-ended den, it's carpet-clad and cushioned and decorated á la Turquie. It's fun place for beer or a nargileh with a good mix of European-Turkish-Arabic music.
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Karameşe
If you fancy a cuppa, gözleme (savoury crêpe, or even a snooze in between the sightseeing, amid cool and verdant rambling gardens, pop into the Karameşe across the road from the mosque.
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Roma
Having learnt the art of ice cream-making from his father, Feridun, the owner, now produces some heavenly home-made flavours. His particular recommendations are: walnut, black mulberry and mixed chocolate.
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Selçuk Köftecisi
Yes, you've heard it all before: 'this place has the best köfte (meatballs)!', but this time it's actually true. This family-run spot has been churning out bullet-sized meatballs since 1959, and although it's rather monopolised by tour groups, we still highly recommend stopping by. Rumbling bellies should order two portions of the veal köfte, as the dish sizes are on the small side. Be sure to save room for the scrumptious Temple of Artemis dessert – a pudding flavoured with almonds, vanilla and tahin (sesame seed pulp).
reviewed
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Sişçı Yaşarın Yeri
This small stall on the main road is hugely popular with those in the know for its delicious köfte and kebaps. Sadly, Yaşar has passed away, but his son is continuing the tradition. Although rather hidden away, there's a small, shaded seating area around the back with a few tables.
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Market
Every Saturday, Selçuk holds a fantastic market behind the bus station. With its fresh fruit, veg, cheese and olives, it's a great place to stock up for a picnic. There's a similar market behind the train station on Wednesdays.
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Okumuş Mercan Restaurant
Set in a small courtyard beside a fountain in the shade of a 100-year-old mulberry tree, this place is loved locally for its traditional home fare at good prices.
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Okumuşlar Pide Salonu
Next door to the bus station (and one of several branches), it does fabulous pides (including veggie ones).
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