Upper Ephesus

Like any city in the ancient world, the first structure to welcome visitors was always a bathhouse; in Ephesus' case it was known as the Varius Baths. Baths were placed at all of a city's main entrances, as it was customary to wash oneself clean of any harmful agents acquired during the arduous journey. But baths were also a social place, like a hamam, where friends and new acquaintances would hang out, scrub themselves clean and even get massages.

Fresh as a daisy? Good. Now it's time to move into the city's legislative district, which was anchored by a large square known as the Upper Agora. It was here that politicos would get together to share the latest news and spread gossip – kinda like an ancient version of Twitter. Although it may be hard to imagine now, the entire agora was once filled with polished marble, and there was the small Temple of Isis in the middle. Grand columns used to flank the legislative agora, but they were struck down and 'recycled' into other structures by marauding Christians several centuries later. Notice the archways in the distance – these were storage houses where locals preserved their food.

Walking towards the theatre, eagle eyes will spot bits of terracotta piping once used to funnel water throughout the city. The 5000-seat theatre up ahead was known as the Odeon and was primarily used for municipal meetings. Marble seats and carved ornamentation suggest that the theatre was quite magnificent in its time.

Further on, two of the six original Doric columns mark the entrance to the very ruined remains of the Prytaneum (town hall)and city treasury. A giant statue of Artemis once stood here in all of her fertile glory: fused legs, huge breast and welcoming arms extending out from her body. Her hands have been missing for centuries – scholars believe that they were crafted out of gold. The Prytaneum was also home to the Temple of Hestia Boulaea, where the 'life of the city', or eternal flame, was guarded and tended to by vestal virgins.

A side street known as the Sacred Street led to the city's Asclepion, or hospital. Doctors were considered missionaries of the god Asclepius and his daughter Hygieia. Asclepius' symbol was the snake (hence the plethora of 'pharmacy' symbols etched into the stone) because it could shed its skin and renew itself. Also, it was known early on that snake venom had curative powers. In ancient times, hospitals were more than just a place where physical ailments were cured. It is believed that Greek and Roman medicine approached health in a holistic fashion – the brain and body were closely connected.

Nearby is the ruined Temple of Domitian, named after Domitian (r AD 81–96), who was known as quite a cruel ruler. He expelled St John to Patmos and executed his own nephew for taking an interest in Christianity. A temple in his honour was ordered at his request, and after his death it was promptly demolished.

The Pollio Fountain and Memius Monument only begin to hint at the lavish fountains that covered the ancient capital. The sound of trickling water was believed to have curative powers ('expendable' water was also a sign of great wealth).