Things to do in Çeşme
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Star Restaurant
This Norwegian-Turkish-owned restaurant offers cosmopolitan surprises such as Hawaiian pizza and pasta carbonara alongside the gamut of steaks and lahmacun (Arabic-style pizza). The tables on the leafy cobbled square next to the church are perfect for whiling away an afternoon.
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Fortress & Çeşme Museum
The Genoese fortress, whose dramatic walls dominate the town centre, was built in the 16th century and repaired by Sultan Beyazıt, son of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror (Mehmet Fatih), to defend the coast from attack by pirates. Later the Knights of St John of Jerusalem based on Rhodes also made use of it. The battlements offer excellent views of Çeşme but otherwise the interior is disappointingly empty. The one exception is the north tower, which houses the Çeşme Museum (Çeşme Müzesi), displaying some archaeological finds from nearby Erythrae.
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Boat Trips
From late May to September, gülets (traditional Turkish wooden yachts) offer one-day boat trips to nearby Black Island, Donkey Island and Wind Bay, where you can swim and snorkel. Browse the waterfront to compare prices and negotiate; they should cost around TL20 to TL30, including lunch. Boats usually leave around 10am and return around 5pm.
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Sahil Restaurant
Right on the waterfront, this Mediterranean-styled place is known for its fish (though meat dishes are also good). But make sure you ask for prices in advance; for some travellers, the bill's been a nasty surprise. Barbun (red mullet) is the speciality.
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İmren Lokantası Restaurant
Çeşme's first restaurant, opened back in 1960, is set in a bamboo-roofed atrium with a fountain and plants. It's famous locally for its traditional, high-quality Turkish food, including stews.
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Pasifik Otel Restaurant
If you fancy a walk and some fish, head to this hotel restaurant, at the far northern end of the seafront, where you can enjoy a great fish casserole on seating overlooking a small beach.
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Statue of Cezayirli Gazi Hasan Paşa
Facing İskele Meydanı, with its back to the fortress, is a statue of this great Ottoman admiral (1714–90), who was sold into slavery but became a grand vizier. He is shown accompanied by a lion; he famously brought one to Turkey from Africa.
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Tokmak Hasan'ın Yeri
Hidden away except to those in the know, this simple place serves terrific home cooking at unbeatable prices. Head straight for the little garden at the back; it's cool and quiet and oasis-like.
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Patika Restaurant & Café-Bar
Overlooking the square, with a cute, two-table balcony, Patika serves standard meat and fish dishes. Between 9pm and 4am daily, Turkish music is performed on the small stage. Alcohol is not served.
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Migros
There's a row of cheap-eats along İkilap Caddesi. For self-caterers, there's a Migros supermarket about 1km from the city centre heading northeast on the İzmir road.
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Skyline
Calling itself a 'dance-bar' this tiny place (in the same building as Patika Restaurant Café Bar) was Çeşme's best when we visited. It has a lovely terrace.
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Orthodox Church of Ayios Haralambos
North of the castle, this imposing but redundant 19th-century church is used for temporary exhibitions of arts and crafts during the summer months.
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Big Boss Café Bar
With tables on the seafront and English newspapers, this new café is a relaxed and (with its competitive prices), cheap way to enjoy the seafront.
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No Problem Bar
Decorated with British souvenir towels, this expat hang-out offers tastes of Blighty such as a full English breakfast (TL10), pub quiz (8pm Monday) and book exchange.
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Rumeli
Occupying an Ottoman stone house, this 65-year-old pastane (patisserie) sells great ice cream (TL1.50 per scoop) from its side window, and stocks all manner of local jams, pickles and preserves.
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Rıhtım Restaurant
One of the touristy fish restaurants on the waterfront, Rıhtım's fish fridge and wine rack are particularly well stocked. The large dining room, proudly displaying huge empty bottles of Metaxa (a Greek spirit), has more personality than the neighbouring places.
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Hamam
Past the Kervansaray Hotel is a restored hamam from the 18th-century with a dome and marble interior. Bathing is mixed and peştamals (hamam bath towels) are used.
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Ekol Restaurant
Recommended by locals, this popular lunch spot is good for a basic feed. The diverse menu offers casseroles and curry, steaks and stroganoff, although not all dishes are always available. Mezes include the recommended patlican (aubergine) and tomatoes, and the house speciality kabak çiçeği dolması (stuffed courgette flowers).
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Çeşme Museum
Housed in the castle's Umur Bey tower, this museum displays archaeological finds from nearby Erythrae.
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Çeşme Castle
The Genoese fortress, whose dramatic walls dominate the town centre, was built in 1508 and repaired by Sultan Beyazıt, son of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror (Mehmet Fatih), to defend the coast from attack by pirates. Later, the Rhodes-based Knights of St John of Jerusalem also made use of it. The battlements offer excellent views of Çeşme, and it's good to walk around inside – under arches, up and down steps, and through towers with exhibits on subjects including the area's naval history.
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Beach
At the far northern end of the waterfront esplanade is a small, sandy beach.
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Belediye hamamı
Past the Çeşme Kervansaray Hotel on Bağlar Çarşı Caddesi is Çeşme's restored 18th-century Belediye hamamı. With its dome and marble interior, it's an attractive place. Bathing is mixed (though peştemals - hamam clothtowels - are used). Opening hours are sporadic at other times of the year.
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