Things to do in Çanakkale
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Troy
The approach to Troy, 36km from Çanakkale, is across rolling grain fields. This is the ancient Troad, all but lost to legend until German-born Californian treasure-seeker and amateur archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann (1822-90) excavated atop a promising hill in 1871. He uncovered four superimposed ancient towns, destroying three others in the process.
The window where you buy your admission ticket is just past the village of Tevfikiye, 500m before the site. Guidebooks (with maps) to the site are available at souvenir shops near the ticket box.
In Homer's Iliad, Troy was the town of Ilium. The Trojan War took place in the 13th century BC, with Agamemnon, Achilles, Odysseus…
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Gallipoli
The slender peninsula that forms the northwestern side of the Dardanelles, across the water from the town of Çanakkale, is called Gallipoli. For a millennium it has been the key to İstanbul - the navy that could force the straits had a good chance of capturing the capital of the Eastern European world.
Many fleets have tried to do so. Most, including the mighty Allied fleet mustered in WW1, have failed. Today, the Gallipoli battlefields are peaceful places covered in scrubby brush, pine forests and fields. But the battles fought here nearly a century ago still live in the memories of many people, both Turkish and foreign, and the annual pilgrimage that Australians and …
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TJs Tours
Based at TJs Hotel in Eceabat, this agency also offers some quality guides such as Graham 'Ibrahim', and private tours.
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Kabatepe Information Centre & Museum
If you're a hiker, and you have lots of time, take a ferry from Çanakkale to Eceabat and a dolmuş or taxi to Kabatepe, and follow the trail around the sites described in an excellent map sold at the Kabatepe Information Centre & Museum.
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Hünnaphan
Set in an old purple house away from the waterfront, this charming restaurant has a beautiful patio garden and two semiprivate balconies where diners can enjoy park views. Turkish and Western dishes are on offer and there's an extensive wine list.
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Han Bar
Upstairs in the 19th-century Yalı Han, this is a popular hang-out where DJs play. The outside gallery overlooks an equally popular courtyard tea garden.
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Hedon
This big bar-venue attempts a spot of lounge sophistication up front, until you get to the barn-like dancefloor. The clientele also varies - on one memorable night the bar had to close early because the entire crowd was underage!
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Café Notte
In the heart of the trendier northern waterfront strip, this cool bar-bistro has a cosmopolitan menu and cocktails (TL10); we found the White Russians to be better than the Margaritas. Fajitas and fish and chips are on offer, as are simpler eats such as pizzas and sandwiches (TL4 to TL10).
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Özsüt
The austere black-white décor of this patisserie chain belies the sheer indulgence of the sweet treats sold within. You'll pay more to eat in, but it's worth it for the extra presentation.
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Depo
The biggest and rowdiest joint in a street of similar establishments, Depo has a warehouse vibe and a fantastic open courtyard full of beanbag chairs. It's the best dance spot in town.
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Yalı Hanı
This atmospheric bar set in an old caravanserai is the town's most popular live music venue. As well as the bar, there's a pleasant courtyard çay bahçesi.
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Yemek
Across the road from Anzac House, Yemek is a straightforward all-hours outlet for kebap, pide and cafeteria meals, with inside and outside seating for all seasons.
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Military Museum
A park in the military zone at the southern end of the quay houses the Military Museum, also known as the Dardanelles Straits Naval Command Museum (Çanakkale Boğaz Komutanliği Deniz Müzesi). It's free to enter the park, which is open every day and is dotted with guns, cannons and military artefacts.
A sea-facing late-Ottoman building contains informative exhibits on the Gallipoli battles and some war relics, including fused bullets that hit each other in mid-air. Apparently the chances of this happening are something like 160 million to one, which gives a chilling idea of just how much ammunition was being fired.
Nearby is a replica of the Nusrat minelayer (Nusrat Mayın…
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Archaeology Museum
Just over 1.5km south of the otogar, just off the road to Troy, is the Archaeology Museum, also called the Çanakkale Museum (Çanakkale Müzesi).
The best exhibits here are those from Troy and Assos, although the finds from the tumulus at Dardanos, an ancient town some 10km southwest of Çanakkale, are also noteworthy. There's quite a bit on display in the small garden.
Dolmuşes heading down Atatürk Caddesi towards Güzelyalı or Troy will drop you off near the museum for TL1.
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Yalı Hamam
In this 17th-century hamam, the full works costs TL30. The women's entrance is just around the corner on Hapishane Sokak.
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WWI Cannons
The inscription on this monument reads: 'Mehmets (Turkish soldiers) used these cannons on 18 March 1915 to ensure the impassability of the Çanakkale Strait'.
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Trojan Horse
Along the waterfront promenade north of the main ferry pier, don't be surprised to see this much-larger-than-life model, as seen in the movie Troy (2004). The model of the ancient city and information displays beneath it are better than anything you'll find at Troy.
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Time Out
A rock club of the stylish (rather than dingy) variety, with pictures of Elvis et al, outside tables and a barman who plays sets.
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Makkarna Bistro
One of the drinking dens on this buzzing pedestrianised lane, Makkarna serves cocktails and the traditional Turkish 'beer bong' (TL15).
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Korfmann Library
Housed in a 19th-century former school in the old town, this library, opposite the Tifli Mosque, was the bequest of the late Manfred Osman Korfmann (1945–2005), archaeological director at Troy from 1988 to 2003. It contains 6000 volumes on history, culture, art and archaeology.
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Hedon Club
This informal little club is a good place for a beer, and it's an intimate venue, with two floors of tables overlooking the stage. There's sometimes a cover charge.
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Gülen Pizza
On the other side of the park from Gülen Pide, this place serves all the pizza classics.
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Gülen Pide
Locals recommend this kebapçı (kebap restaurant) strip, and Gülen is a good choice with a clean, white-tiled floor and an open kitchen producing pide and lahmacun (Arabic-style pizza; TL2.50 to TL8.50).
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Çonk Coffee
Old coins and cameras adorn this friendly cafe, which serves Turkish coffee, sandwiches and tost (toasted sandwiches).
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Clock Tower
The five-storey Ottoman saat kulesi (clock tower) near the harbour was built in 1897. It was paid for by an Italian consul and Çanakkale merchant who left 100,000 gold francs in his will for this purpose.
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