Dark sights in Çanakkale
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The slender peninsula that forms the northwestern side of the Dardanelles, across the water from the town of Çanakkale, is called Gallipoli. For a millennium it has been the key to İstanbul - the navy that could force the straits had a good chance of capturing the capital of the Eastern European world.
Many fleets have tried to do so. Most, including the mighty Allied fleet mustered in WW1, have failed. Today, the Gallipoli battlefields are peaceful places covered in scrubby brush, pine forests and fields. But the battles fought here nearly a century ago still live in the memories of many people, both Turkish and foreign, and the annual pilgrimage that Australians and…